Dispatch from Northwest Norway

As a self-professed Scandophile, Norway remained the missing Nordic stamp in my passport for years, until the promise of the best Northern Light displays for the next decade finally drew me to its snow-capped mountains this winter (we’re currently at the peak of a solar cycle, which means better chances for aurora chasers). Daylight hours have not quite dwindled all the way down to polar nights in late November, giving today’s Arctic explorers ample time (and space) to navigate the glacial fjordlands without the summer crowds. Almost half of the country lies above the Arctic Circle, and the most northerly regions are vast and often only connected by small, domestic propeller planes or infrequent (sometimes seasonal) ferries — making planning your itinerary as important as packing for the plummeting temperatures accordingly.

Starting in the Art Nouveau port town of Ålesund puts you right at the entrance to the UNESCO-listed Geirangerfjord and the rugged Sunnmøre Alps, best explored on a summit-to-sea ski tour or electric-powered fjord cruise with 62°NORD, expert curators of experiential, emission-free excursions in Norway. There are also round-trip boats departing from Ålesund through Trandal, Sæbø, Urke og Øye, with hop-on, hop-off tickets available along the fishing villages of Hjørundfjorden. Back on dry land, Ålesund’s Jugendstilsenteret is a center for Norwegian Art Nouveau housed within a former pharmacy, with upstairs rooms laid out as a bedroom and lounge decorated with furniture from the era, and a well-curated gift shop displayed in the original apothecary drawers on the ground floor. 

Stop by Trankokeriet, an old sea cottage selling Nordic antiques, with views across windswept waves towards Molja Lighthouse. Transformed into a luxury guesthouse, residents of Hotel Brosundet’s Room 47 can spend the night in the beacon, with a breakfast hamper delivered to the salt-sprayed door each morning. I fell asleep to the sound of the sea lapping against my waterfront suite’s walls in Brosundet’s main building, converted from old fish-packing warehouses into industrial-chic rooms and a fireside boutique stocked with Sprekenhus bath oils, pine-scented candles, and made-to-last merino knitwear from Devold and its sister brand, O.A.D. The Devold factory is just seven minutes by boat from the hotel, with outlet prices and an additional discount for guests, plus the chance to meet some of the local craftspeople at work. Armed with cashmere and cable knits, there’s no excuse not to fully embrace Nordic bathing rituals by reserving one of Brosundet’s outdoor tubs (available in 45-minute slots on the hotel’s floating deck), swapping between the sauna and icy plunges in the canal.

Freshly baked cinnamon buns and hot chocolates from Butikken kept me fuelled throughout the day’s snowstorms, with after-dark brasserie Apotekergata No. 5 downstairs serving Sunnmøre-sourced dishes like Arctic grayling roe blinis and cloudberry cheesecake. Head next door for a nightcap at Arkivet (Peder Devold ran his fish oil business from this address in 1905), a candlelit bar that hosts quayside cocktail tastings and has outdoor tables on a floating barge. Dinner at stylish seafood restaurant Sjøbua is a must (even if you’re allergic to shellfish, like me). The catch-of-the-week was halibut and grilled to perfection, followed by brioche pain perdu topped with foraged berries, and picks from the cheese trolley (supplied by local dairy farmers).

Linked to Ålesund by a series of bridges and undersea tunnels, the islands of Giske and Godøy are steeped in Viking history, with sweeping coastal paths to walk, white-tailed eagles to spot, and ancient caves to discover. Far-reaching views can be enjoyed from Alnes Lighthouse, which has a permanent exhibition by Ålesund-born painter, Ørnulf Opdahl, on the way up. Linger a while at Staurneset Cabin, an unplugged outpost on Giske’s shores available for half- and full-week rentals for up to four wilderness-loving guests. 

A half-hour’s drive in the other direction towards the small village of Glomset brings you to Storfjord, a cluster of turf-topped wooden lodges overlooking their namesake fjord. This slow life hideaway is as koselig (“cozy”) as they come, with working fireplaces in many of the suites and living rooms, a help-yourself library with traditional board games, snowshoes to borrow in the winter and walking maps to follow year-round. I hiked up Haugtua one morning, the mountain looming over my bedroom window, to admire the Sunnmøre Alps’ steep, pine-swathed slopes tumble into Storfjorden’s steely-blue expanse. A refreshing, birch-infused cordial was waiting for me back at the hotel, with yet more mountain vistas to soak up from the outdoor hot tubs and sauna.

An overnight blizzard blanketed the valley in fresh, fluffy snow, which remarkably did nothing to delay my journey further north to the Lofoten Islands (flying from Ålesund to Leknes via Bodø). Pilots are seemingly used to navigating the adverse weather conditions in these parts, but alarmingly short runways and unassigned seating on some of the smaller planes might encourage you to opt for the two-night Hurtigruten or Havila ferry to Svolvær (which doubles as a sightseeing cruise along the north-western coast). Make your heading for Nusfjord Arctic Resort, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, set within a former fishing village just beyond the majestic Flakstad mountain passes. My home for three, Northern Lights-filled nights was a traditional red rorbu, which started life as lodging for fishermen travelling from all corners of Norway for Lofoten’s bustling cod season. Still rustic, but decidedly more luxurious than when 12 sailors slept side-by-side in these weather-beaten walls, my pier-side cabin’s interiors nod to its seafaring past—lighting looks like fishing nets, linens and blinds resemble sail canvas, and boating gear hangs from the preserved timber. The two-bedroom Isolated Fisherman is the resort’s most secluded stay, set on its own island, a 10-minute boat ride from the main harbour. Elltor, Nusfjord’s fishing boat, brings fresh catches from the Arctic waters for dinner at Karoline restaurant, with the neighbouring Oriana tavern serving wood-fired pizzas in a former whisky storehouse, and private dining tables can be reserved in an old boat shed. Similarly, the village’s general store has found new purpose as a fjord-facing café, known to locals as Landhandleriet. The bright yellow, stilted building rubs shoulders with Salteriet, an art gallery with rotating exhibitions in what was once a salthouse. 

The sun only just rose above the horizon each day, bathing the over-water cabins in a soft pink light for around four precious hours. Everything here revolves around the sea, including the resort’s fishing trips and kayaking tours. I joined Captain Svein Roar on a rib excursion to spot sea eagles from the water—some were easily lured by fish and dived alongside the boat, while others nestled in the snowy crags keeping watch as we bounced over white horse waves. Eagle eyes come in handy for Nusfjord’s Northern Lights hunts, which depart on clear evenings on a night drive into the mountains (with hot drinks and homemade snacks to keep you going past midnight, if needed). The aurora belt lies directly above the Lofoten Islands, which means you’re well placed for a sighting (or three, in my case). Flashes of green and purple danced across the star-studded skies, sometimes appearing for a matter of minutes for me to shift my tripod into position. The blink-and-you-miss-it displays somehow felt more special, with a pair of emerald ribbons streaking down for just a few seconds. One of my favourite references to the aurora in Norse mythology is the glinting armour of the Valkyrie, Odin’s fearless shield maidens who rode across the skies on horseback. Whatever you choose to believe, Norway’s winter magic can be experienced in many ways, from following fox tracks in fresh snowfall to the edge of a forest, to convivial sauna chats with newfound flush-cheeked friends after (quite literally) breaking the ice for a wild swim together.