Naples Black Book

This marks our three-year anniversary of doing this newsletter! And honestly, every summer since we started, we get messages asking for a Naples Black Book. Yes, we included a lot of intel in our Italy Travel Planner, the South, but we decided to go deeper and give this incredible city the attention it deserves. Probably because it’s so enigmatic, rich, grittily charming and yes, a little intimidating, I, like many, end up only scratching the surface, spending 24 to 36 hours here on my way to somewhere else, be it Ischia or the Amalfi or Capri. With that in mind, we approached this Black Book slightly differently this time. Yes, we have a great list of places to eat, stay and shop. And everyones’ favorite museums and churches (filled with Caravaggios and Christs) that must be a part of your itinerary no matter how short, plus their favorite morning swims, debates on the best sfogliatella and pizza spots or old-school tailors and Negroni bars. But we also asked our contributor friends to share their “If you only had one lunch or dinner,” and “How to spend 24 hours,” which is so helpful for all of us just passing through. (Although after putting this together, I’ve decided to make my next trip to Naples much longer!) How, for all these years, have I missed having a limone cosce aperte (literally “lemon juice with open thighs”), which both William Gilchrist and Gerardo Cavaliere recommend?! I think that after reading William’s perfect day in this city, you’ll feel the same. Ce verimm’ ‘a Napule (See you in Naples!

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Allegra Hicks is an artist and designer who lives and works between London and Naples, crafting one-of-a-kind design pieces in media that run from painting to tapestries to rugs to cast bronze. 

Antonio Sersale is co-owner of Le Sirenuse, his former family home and iconic Amalfi Coast hotel, which he has overseen since 1992. His aim has always been to sustain and renew the proud traditions and attention to detail of the property, which his family has run since 1951. 

Andrea Provvidenza is the founder of LodenTal, a modern take on the traditional loden-wool coat, made in Naples. 

Bianca Perna lives between London and New York, where she runs communication campaigns for luxury hotels and tourism boards through her agency Bspoke Associates. Though she loves traveling, her heart is in her hometown of Naples, where she was born.

Emily FitzRoy is a super connected Italian cognoscente and the founder of Bellini Travel, crafting bespoke journeys around Italy. “My grandmother Antonella (known as Tony) was from Naples,” she says, “which is why I have such a strong connection with the city.” 

Fernando Pane was born in Naples and following many years’ experience in hospitality, now manages the Grand Hotel Villa Medici, Autograph Collection, in Florence.

Gerardo Cavaliere is the cofounder of Giuliva Heritage, based in Rome, which specializes in crafting timeless, high-quality menswear and womenswear, most of which is made in their atelier in his hometown of Naples.   

Gianluca Longo is the style director of The World of Interiors. Born in Puglia, his innate interest in fashion and interiors led him to a 25-year career in magazines (British Vogue, Cabana, and W) and consulting for brands such as Tods, Ginori 1735 and Ralph Lauren.

Lucy Laucht is a UK-based travel and lifestyle photographer. Her first book, Il Dolce Far Niente, is a transporting photographic ode to the magic of Italian summer, full of images of southern coastal Italy and Lucy’s scoop on seven favorite destinations. We’ve excerpted some of her Naples inside track here. 

Marie-Louise Sciò is the creative director and CEO of Pellicano Hotels and the founder of Issimo. Five years ago they added Mezzatorre on Ischia to their hotel family, which means a lot of time spent going in and out of Naples.

Matt Hranek is the founder of Wm Brown Magazine and the author of A Man & His Car, A Man & His Watch, The Negroni: A Love Affair with a Classic Cocktail, The Martini: Perfection in a Glass, and founder of WM Brown Magazine. His cookbook, A Man & His Kitchen, came out last fall.

Nicola Radano was born in Pompeii and now lives in Portici, at the foot of Mount Vesuvius. He designs exquisite ties, accessories, and small clothing capsules for his brands, Spacca Neapoli and NR-Napoli, each piece a blend of tradition and contemporary flair capturing the essence of Neapolitan elegance.

Oddur Thorisson is a photographer and semi-professional restaurant pundit who lives in Turin, but frequents dining rooms all over Italy. He is currently working with his wife, Mimi, on her fourth cookbook and her second focusing on Italian cuisine (the first being Old World Italian). He is also writing a novel, largely set around the table.

Roberto Salomone is an Italian documentary photographer based in Naples mainly focused on social issues.

Stile Latino is a family tailoring company founded by Vincenzo Attolini (whose grandfather is credited with creating the Neapolitan style as it is understood today), which he runs with his sons Cesare Mattia and Emiliano. Their jackets are made entirely by hand in Naples. 

William Gilchrist – Vedi Napoli e vivi…happier by the sea, actually on the sea, but currently in his beloved Parthenope. William is a stylist and getting busy perfecting some distillations from the slopes of Vesuvius and the fields of the Amalfi coast. Plotting with the local artisans to finesse the sartorial shirts of Napoli and then and then and then, insciallah, ma la vita e bella.