Napa Valley List

For the last couple of years I’ve been spending quite a bit of time in the Napa Valley, a place I love, but isn’t the easiest place to navigate—it can feel commercial and a bit adult Disneyland. However, I think there is a sort of secret Napa, and I’ve pulled together all the great suggestions from friends and my own experiences here. Personally, if I’m staying in a hotel, I like to be “up valley”, which is to say, in Calistoga. Whatever you do, plan your days where you aren’t zig-zagging. I’ve plotted this list out to start with where you’ll spend the night—but then organized it by town. I’ve included high and low options—god knows you may really want a hot dog for lunch after having a tasting menu the night before. As always, if there’s something I’ve missed, please tell me in the comments, and I’ll keep adding to this list as I find more spots I hear great things about. —Y.E.

STAY

The Francis House, Calistoga: We fell in love with the owners Dina and Richard—who have the best taste, and have created a beautiful inn at this historical landmark property. They’ll send you to all the right places, and also make you an epic breakfast.

Solage, Calistoga: Lovely cottages surrounded by lavender and roses—great pools (one huge main one and then the spa area with many smaller mineral pools, including a cold plunge!), great food, bikes to ride into town, and even a free Mercedes program where you can take a car for up to four hours.

Indian Springs, Calistoga: Definitely more funky than Solage—but what it lacks for in luxury, it makes up with lots of character. Their hot springs date back to 1862, and although the spa was closed when we were there, we hear great things about it.

Brannan Cottage Inn: I haven’t stayed here but I always stop here for coffee and think that if the coffee and avocado toast is that thoughtfully presented, I bet the inn is nice too. If you go, let me know how it is!

Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa: My friends stayed here recently and really liked it. It’s not as fancy or have all the options the Solage has, but it’s also not as expensive.

Dr. Wilkinso n’s Backyard Retreat and Mineral Springs: I’ve watched this renovation happen over the last year but haven’t seen it since it opened. It’s a property that has been around since 1952 and just opened in late spring. It looks like a solid option on the not-astronomical side of hotel prices, and you may walk away healed.

Cottage Grove Inn: Another place I’ve scouted from the outside and think looks super cute. Right in downtown Calistoga, your own cottage—most with wood-burning fireplaces. I love that you can drive right up to your cottage, motel-style, like it’s your own place.

Carlin Cottage Court: Only because the Napa Valley gets so packed am I including so many places I haven’t personally stayed, or had friends report on. I have walked past this place and thought it looked very cute and clean. Upon researching it, turns out it has been run by the same family for two generations, has their own mineral springs, and the rooms look nice enough.

The Setting Inn, Napa: In between Yountville and Napa, this is a super comfortable place to stay that feels like a discovery, in an area where that is rare. I took a walk in the vineyards just outside the grounds and didn’t see a soul for a mile.

Bardessano, Yountville: One of the few rooftop pools you’ll find in Napa Valley, with vineyard views.

Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford: I haven’t stayed here in years, but it’s a classic—and has the most lovely views.

Ink House, St. Helena: Our friends who are locals love this spot.

Blackbird Inn, Napa: I love the way this small b+b looks from the outside–an arts and crafts historical property. The location is great if you want to be able to walk around the town of Napa, and take a car service when you venture out.

Coming soon: Four Seasons in Calistoga on the Silverado Trail, and Stanly Ranch (an Auberge property) on the southern end of the Valley (just outside Napa) will open later this year.

I purposely didn’t include the Archer Hotel in Napa. I’ve stayed here twice out of necessity, and, while the room is lovely and comfortable, and the location couldn’t be more convenient, it’s just depressing to me to come all the way to Napa and stay in a place that feels like an airport hotel. I also didn’t include any Sonoma or Healdsburg properties, but I’ll do a Sonoma list sometime this fall!

NAPA

Angèle: Classic French bistro with a lovely patio on the Napa River

Cadet: wine and beer bar

Compline: great burgers and strong potential for a celeb winemaker sighting

Model Bakery: Amazing breakfast sandwiches and apparently Oprah loves the English muffins here.

Oxbow Market: One of my favorite places to eat in the Valley…great coffee, lots of different food options (all of them great), and if you forgot a sun hat, pick one up at the Hudson Greens & Goods.

Sweetie Pies

WINE

Hudson Ranch and Vineyards: Lee and Cristina Hudson are very dear friends, and, although I’m biased, I have to say, it’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to, anywhere. Definitely prioritize a visit here, and don’t leave without buying some of their wine and amazing olive oil.

Favia: Our friends Andy and Annie make this great wine, and their tasting room is in the most idyllic location in Coombsville, just outside downtown Napa.

Robert Sinskey Vineyards: Rob and Maria are also great friends and have a fantastic wine and food pairing tasting.

AND…

Napa Bookmine: longstanding indie-bookstore with a great new & used selection

Napa Vine Trail: a walking/biking trail that connects South Napa to Yountville

Napa River Velo: rent a bike and hop on the Vine Trail

YOUNTVILLE

Ad Hoc + addendum for a bucket of Thomas Keller’s famous fried chicken

The French Laundry

Kelly’s Filling Station and Wine Shop: We always stop here for coffee, but the secret here are the epic hot dogs which they start serving at 11am.

Bouchon Bakery: Often a line but if you like great bread/pastries, it’s worth it.

Ciccio: great wood fire pizzas and an extensive Negroni menu

R+D Kitchen: best patio and the dip duo is highly recommended

Tacos Garcia: a great taco truck 707.980.4896

OAKVILLE/RUTHERFORD

Oakville Grocery

Quintessa Winery

La Luna Market and Taqueria: it’s definitely not fancy, but it’s a good antidote to all the fanciness you might be tired of!

ST HELENA

(Thank you to my friends at Faust Haus for their great recs!)

EAT/DRINK

Villa Corona: best breakfast burrito and Mexican food in town

Charter Oak: My favorite place for dinner in the Valley!

The Station: a gas station turned chic café with delicious coffee + food to go

Gott’s Roadside: classic burgers & fries joint, but thoughtful ingredients, and a big outdoor seating area with picnic tables and plenty of room for kids to run around.

Press Restaurant: classic chophouse with one of the best Napa-focused wine lists in the Valley

Ana’s Cantina

WINE

Faust Haus: Full disclosure—I work as a creative consultant with this team, so they are like family to me. However, I’m including it because I love it—the location is fantastic, the decor is brilliant, and I know you’ll like it.

Mending Wall