Growing up in Mexico City, I first visited Mérida when I was in high school. We were studying Mayan culture, so the trip was about ruins—temples, history, civilization. But what stayed with me was the city itself. Each time I returned, I thought: this is such a cool, interesting town. In Mexico, especially outside the big cities, you can find many colonial towns filled with 17th- and 18th-century architecture, like you see in San Miguel de Allende. But Mérida is different. When you’re standing on Paseo de Montejo, it feels almost like a Parisian boulevard, lined as it is with grand 19th-century mansions that seem to appear out of nowhere. It feels improbable.
That grandeur came from henequen—what used to be called “green gold.” At one point, the Yucatán was incredibly wealthy because of it. The ropes for ships all over the world were made from Yucatecan fiber. The sacks that transported Argentine grain were made here. That wealth built the elaborate haciendas you see today. Then in the mid-20th century, the industry collapsed. Families moved north into more modern neighborhoods. The historic center was largely abandoned. These extraordinary 19th-century houses were empty—ripe for the taking. Creative expats from Mexico City, the U.S., and Canada began to move in, seeing the potential in what was there. The expats who live in Mérida are, in my experience, the thoughtful kind. They learn Spanish. They integrate. They’re respectful. In many ways, the revival helped preserve the architecture and the life of the city.
After many trips over the years, my husband and I found the house that is now ours—a humble 19th-century façade on the street, and a modern courtyard with a pool inside. We go every year, usually in winter, and rent it out the rest of the time. Living in New York, having this escape to the tropics feels like a blessing. It’s still a six-hour travel day, but from New York we can be by our pool by 2pm.
For me as a Mexican, Mérida feels deeply familiar, but at the same time completely different. The accent is different. The culture is different. The scent is different—the fragrance of tropical fruits and flowers are heady (and inspired this decadent guava and champaca scent I created for my brand, Arquiste). Yucatecan cuisine is its own world: the pork is probably the best in Mexico, a specific breed descended from Spanish pigs mixed with local ones. There are these recados—spice blends unique to the region—used in marinades and pastes. The citrus is incredible: there’s a yellow Yucatecan lime you won’t find anywhere else. The honey from native melipona bees is extraordinary. Even Gouda cheese found its way here—queso de bola—a legacy of European trade that somehow became local.
People sometimes say, “But Mérida isn’t on the water.” And that’s true, but you can be at the beach in 45 minutes. The roads are excellent. There’s hardly any traffic. You can leave at 9 a.m. and be swimming by 10. And the coast is still quiet compared to the Riviera Maya. In tumultuous times, the Yucatan state and Mérida are consistently safe and peaceful. It’s a quiet town with virtually no crime. I hope it stays that way.
Mérida really makes the perfect base for the region. You can visit the historic haciendas—some now hotels, some museums, some still privately owned. You can drive to cenotes, to spectacular Mayan ruins, to small towns with delicious restaurants. But then you return to your house or hotel in the center, jump in the pool, cool off, and go out for dinner.
Still, more than the architecture, the food, or even the beauty, what keeps me coming back is the peace and quiet, and the people. Mexico is full of kind people, but in Yucatán they are especially gentle—soft, welcoming, generous. It’s very easy to feel at home there. And that, to me, is Mérida’s greatest feature. And so here is a list of our favorite local go-tos, plus some inspiration for day/weekend trips across the Yucatan.
Breakfast Spots
Antonella Café – Adorable space. I always come here for a coffee after my morning run .
Pancho Maiz – Really great food with emphasis on corn.
The Coffee – Great Japanese style coffee and matcha at the heart of the “Corredor Gastronomico” (the city’s Gastronomic Corridor) of Calle 47.
Dosmos – New coffee spot with a vintage vibe north of the historical center.
Merci – Mexican with a French twist by much-loved local chef Regina Escalante.
Lunch
Ramiro Cocina – A great fixed menu with great vegetarian options close to Paseo Montejo .
Mar de Maares – Brand new seafood cantina on the Calle 47’s gastronomic strip. Delicious and fresh ceviches, tostadas and tuna carnitas. Loved how fresh everything was.
La Pigua – A Seafood classic. Sister restaurant to the Campeche original. Perfect service and impeccable Mexican seafood with a really local Mérida crowd.
Manjar Blanco – Known for its cochinita pibil.
Wayan’e – Great authentic Yucatecan tacos and tortas, famous for their castacan, crispy pork belly.
Dinner
La Barra – Mexican omakase highlighting local ingredients, by celebrated chef Roberto Solís.
Camote – New spot near La Plancha park, highlighting natural wines and Southeast Asian and Mexican flavors by an expat American couple.
Proyecto Casa 459 – Great Lebanese-Yucatecan food and vibes in this new spot with the coolest new bar in the Centro, Sala Sala.
Vana – One of our faves, great pizza and tacos in a decadent space typical of Merida.
Micaela Mar y Leña – Consistently good seafood and grill, though the design is a little hokey.
Ariadna Merida – Amazing space—ask for a table outside.
Holoch – Interesting take on Yucatecan food in a dark and moody space.
Huniik – Incredible fine dining by chef Roberto Solís.
Jayu – Innovative sushi omakase with a Yucatan twist.
Arcano – Great outdoor space.
Pizzeria Oliva – Neapolitan-style wood fire oven pizza and Italian comfort food.
Aperitivo/Cocktails
Bar at Hotel Sevilla – This spot by Grupo Habita is the new chic hotel option in Mérida. Smack in the center of town, its 16th-century interior feels far removed from the 21st-century hustle and bustle. True to Mérida’s chill ambiance, the bar—which typically closes at 9pm to respect the guests’ peace and quiet—is a perfect spot for an aperitivo before dinner nearby.
Bartolome – Great cocktails and Mexican wines at this new Calle 47 spot next to Ariadna Mérida .
Lu’um – Cute wine bar.
Yerba Santa – Great rooftop bar.
La Ermita Cantina – Our neighborhood cantina! Super authentic.
After dinner
Sala Sala – In an old, unrestored house, this DJ bar takes over domestic spaces like the kitchen, the living room and even the bathroom for drinks and dancing. Great music.
El Gato – Great music, listening-room bar, great for late night.
Flamel – Fun and inventive cocktails at this speakeasy mixology bar.
Dzalbay – Fun live music.
Culture
House museums
Quinta Montes Molina – Henequen “green gold”-era mansion.
Montejo 495 – One of the famous beaux arts Casas Cámara, designed in Paris and still owned by the local Barbachano family.
El Pinar – Another Henequen mansion, newly opened to the public.
Museo Arquelogico de Merida– Worth seeing for the house interior alone.
Casa Montejo – The founding family of Mérida’s ancestral home, built in the 16th century in the main square.
Centro Cultural Fernando Castro Pacheco – Cultural space on Paseo Montejo, dedicated to the 20th-century Yucatecan artist.
Galeria Secreta – Contemporary art gallery.
Galeria 25 – New gallery space by American artist Trey Speegle.
Plantel Matilde – Incredible art space outside of Merida. The Yucatan residence of Mexican artist Javier Marin.
Shopping
Taller Maya – Craft boutique highlighting work by indigenous artisans specifically from the Mayan region .
Coqui Coqui – One of the most romantic and atmospheric perfumeries in the world .
Casa T’ho – Wonderful concept store highlighting high-quality Mexican fashion, jewelry and beauty brands.
Stays
La Tropical – Our little slice of paradise, La Tropical is a Mexican modernist one-bedroom villa with double height living and dining spaces, a lush garden and the best-looking pool in Mérida. A lush oasis in La Ermita, a quiet neighborhood south of the main square.
Hotel Sevilla – The hype around this new hotel, from Mexican design hotel group, Grupo Habita, is well-deserved. The rooms are simple, but the hotel is an exercise in chic restraint within 16th-century walls and cool courtyards.
Hotel Cigno – Great adults-only hotel in charming La Ermita (our neighborhood). Where our friends stay when visiting.
Casa Lecanda – Arguably the best location in Mérida for convenience. Beautiful boutique hotel in the gastronomic corridor of Calle 47 (lots of great restaurants, parks and the henequen mansions of Paseo Montejo nearby).
Casa Olivia – The most romantic of the Mérida boutique hotels, right next to Santiago market and square (one of Merida’s most charming squares).
Day Trips
Visit Mexican artist Javier Marin’s incredible residence Plantel Matilde, have lunch at the local community dining hall, and take a ceramics class at the local studio he supports (Barro de Sac Chich).
Drive to Izamal, the historic convent and pyramids, walk the streets, eat one of the best lunches you’ll ever have at Kinich, and finish off with drinks at Kanché.
Spend a night at the beautiful Hacienda San Antonio Millet for a real hacienda experience (still owned by a Mexican family, with a real “family home” feel).
Or spend a night at Destino Mío – Founders Gabriel and Soizic moved from Mexico City to Mérida to connect with nature. They discovered three cenotes deep in the Mayan jungle and built a sustainable farm and sanctuary centered on nature-centric activities, yoga and meditation. It’s an eco-lodge rooted in ancestral Mayan and contemporary Yucatecan culture unlike anything else in the country.
Visit the pink flamingoes at the Parador Turistico de Celestun (November to March), and have the best stone crabs you’ll ever eat for lunch by the beach at Los Pampanos.
Spend a night or two at design-forward Club de Patos in Sisal, our favorite beach hotel in the region. So worth it. Or if you can only do a day trip, have lunch and spend some time at beach club El Palmar.
Explore Uxmal – The most impressive Mayan ruins in the Yucatan. Avoid the crowds at Chichen Itza and explore this gem instead.
Visit Historic Hacienda Yaxcopoil (museum) – One of the most beautiful haciendas, dating back to the 17th century, where you’ll see the old manor house, the henequen fields and production spaces and even a 19th-century theater.
A side trip to Campeche is really, really worth it. Often overlooked, it’s one of the most charming cities in Mexico. Campeche is a walled colonial city of multicolor houses with a rich pirate history. The Mayan ruins of Edzna are also nearby and definitely worth visiting. Book an Airbnb for your stay and don’t miss out on lunch at Campeche’s own La Pigua for great seafood.
Other Tips
The best time to visit Merida is between October and March, when temperatures are mild but warm and it’s on the drier side. Avoid July, August and September, when it rains a lot.
In my experience, April and May are the hottest months. August and September can be very wet.
I recommend renting a car at the airport. But Uber is readily available and safe all over the city.
Most restaurants and stores take Apple pay. Otherwise get MXN Pesos from ATM dispensers. The US Dollar isn’t widely accepted.
And lastly, be warned: Mérida is a chill, quiet town. You won’t find the incredible arts and crafts shopping of Oaxaca or San Miguel, or the nightlife of Cartagena. But you’ll find lots of surprises behind the unassuming facades of the Centro. Come here to relax and enjoy it as a base to explore all that Yucatan has to offer. It’s a slow paced town, unpretentious and unbothered with high-paced tourism. Mérida is best enjoyed when you take it easy. One day you may take a day trip to explore some ruins or visit an historic hacienda, the next you’ll spend poolside and only venture out for a lovely dinner nearby.
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