My Marrakech List

I think I first became aware of the work of London-born, Brooklyn-based interior stylist Hilary Robertson a decade ago when I was at Martha Stewart. Her patinated, earth-toned tableaux for titles like Vogue Living and then everyone from ABC Carpet & Home to West Elm nudged tastes towards the lime-painted walls, rumpled linen, and sculptural ceramics that define her brand of perfectly textured minimalism. Hilary is super well-traveled, so I was excited to hear about her new book that draws on her global wanderings. In Nomad at Home, Hilary gets inside the homes of travelers with amazing design instincts—from artist Lisolette Watkins’ exuberant Rome apartment to architect Agnès Emery’s peacock-hued Marrakech riad—and names some of her favorite sources and small hotels, from Mexico to Morocco. Marrakech makes frequent appearances in its pages, so we asked Hilary to share some places that inspired her there, which she added to a list originally from her friend and design-centric riad owner, Valérie Barkowski of Dar Kawa.  —A.P.

Marrakech is an amazing destination for design aficionados. There’s a bewildering range of high-concept places to stay, and every decorating fantasy or trend is realized here. The riads are often owned by French or Belgians like Valérie Barkowski (Dar Kawa) or Philomena Schurer Merckoll (Riad Mena), who fell in love with the city and made a home and a business here.

I rather greedily chose to stay in three places: Riad 42, Riad Dar K, as it’s known, and Riad Matham. I kept it simple, choosing the minimalist comfort and tranquility of Grégoire and Sarah’s Riad 42, where everything is reduced to its essentials: cool tadelaakt walls and floors, heavy woolen blankets, a monochrome palette. Riad Dar K is another deep-dive into all the possibilities of a black and white palette with primitive four poster beds strewn with Berber rugs and stylish seating areas arranged around the courtyard garden. I traveled there in late February when the days were a sunny and spring-like 65 degrees. We ate lunch on outdoor roof terraces shaded by rug canopies and dinners tucked into the Bhou, a sitting room open to the riad’s internal courtyard warmed by an open log fire. Romantic tented areas on rooftops are the ideal place to retreat to at the end of the evening and listen to the muezzin (call to prayer). Riad Matham is a 16th-century home with its own Hammam (steam room) and large terrace, with an extraordinary 360° view over the medina and the Atlas Mountains. If you are traveling with a family or group of friends, consider renting a whole riad (some offer 5 or more suites and smaller bedrooms). —Hilary Robertson

DO

The YSL Museum is definitely the must see; don’t skip lunch or tea at the museum café.

Musée Tiskiwin, a tiny museum by Bert Flint, who collects pieces from the desert and Morocco in general. The place is a bit dusty, but all the pieces are high quality.

Medersa (Madrasa) Ben Youssef, the ancient school located in the heart of the medina, was just restored.

Cactus Thiemann, a huge cactus nursery, is a must.

A nice way to discover the city is by sidecar with Marrakesh Insiders. They have a great crew and access to special places that you cannot visit on your own.

Gallery 127, for contemporary photography.

SHOP

Look for the basketry market near Jemaa El Fna square, entering Dabachi.

Behind Jemaa El Fna square, there’s a tiny market where olives, preserved lemons, harissa and fresh verbena is sold, which feels like an earlier era

+Michi in the medina, a boutique not far from Dar Bacha, has nice babouches and carved cutlery

For rugs, try Bazar des Palmiers, a small shop with a nice owner who has beautiful vintage pieces. 

LRNCE. Belgian fashion designer Laurence Leenaert went to Marrakech with a sewing machine and $450 euros in her pocket. Somehow, by collaborating with local craftsmen, she created a now much-imitated brand with a fresh modern look and color palette; think Picasso-influenced ceramics, abstract textiles, and asymmetric sandals. She has a studio in Gueliz that you can visit by appointment if you are visiting, or you can buy from her online store which ships worldwide.

EAT

Breakfast and Sunday brunch at Bacha Coffee in the medina.

Villa des Orangers for good cuisine and their cosy bar in winter.

+61 in the new city.

Dinner outside Marrakech, 15 minutes from the medina, at Hotel les Deux Tours in the Palm Grove, which has a very nice garden.

The Asian restaurant at La Mamounia

El Fenn has good food and lunch is very pleasant on the terrace.

Photos by Mike Karlsson Lundgren © Ryland Peters & Small 2022