When you leave Paris by car and head west towards Normandy, about two hours in you may find yourself unwittingly passing through the quiet, rolling hills of Le Perche. This peaceful, caught-in-time region has for the last few years become a retreat for Parisians seeking space and charm, many of whom have been quietly buying up country houses in the area. And yet for everyone else, Le Perche remains one of France’s best-kept secrets.
About a decade ago, we learned about Le Perche through a magazine article and booked a stay at D’une Île on Remelarde-en-Pêche. Situated in a restored 17th-century hamlet surrounded by the Perche Regional Nature Park, the hotel is a mix of rustic charm and a refined culinary approach, and an immersion in the French countryside.
Since we live between Zurich and Paris, finding a new country getaway so convenient by car has been game changing. And we’ve been fortunate in that we now have friends who own a house on a big plot of land, who sometimes invite us to spend the weekend with them and their lovely dog. (Occasionally, too, we get to house- and dog-sit while they’re away!)
When I close my eyes and think about Le Perche, it’s all about undulating hills, open meadows, and ancient forests—especially in the Perche Regional Nature Park—interspersed with stone manors, timber-framed farmhouses, and noble châteaux. The quaint villages are lined with historic buildings housing brocantes (antique shops), bakeries, and cafés that seem untouched by time. While Le Perche’s new homeowners have subtly elevated the scene—with beautifully restored houses and the emergence of a few sophisticated restaurants—mostly Le Perche is about slow living according to the seasons. Spring, summer and autumn occasion long lunches and dinners en plein air, while winter is all about home-cooked meals in front of roaring fireplaces. We try to get there at least once a year, and every time we do we make new discoveries while also feeling relieved to find our old favorites are still there.
What to Do
A quick tour of a few towns and activities you shouldn’t miss.
Bellême: A picturesque hilltop town with cobbled streets, charming shops, and great views. Visit the 17th-century church and the lively Saturday market.
Mortagne-au-Perche: Known for its historic center and boudin noir (black pudding), it’s a gastronomic stop with medieval roots.
Nogent-le-Rotrou: Dominated by its impressive Château Saint-Jean, this town blends heritage with local life. Be sure to visit the old town with the half-timbered houses and the Eglise Notre Dame for its stained-glass windows.
La Perrière: An artist’s village with a bohemian flair, perfect for a stroll and a gallery visit.
We are not big on outdoor activities, but you can go hiking, cycling and horseback riding (Le Perche is the birthplace of the Percheron horse, a majestic draft breed), as well as foraging and fishing.
Where to Eat
What I love about Le Perche’s cuisine is that there’s no fuss, no flower petals—its spirit emerges in honest, home-cooked meals. There are no real signature dishes as such, and the menu changes depending on what’s fresh at the local marché—think blanquette de veau, bœuf Bourguignon, terrines, local cheeses (like Camembert and Pont-l’Évêque), and rustic apple desserts. And be sure to try the local cider!
La Vie en Rouge: A rustic spot right in Mortagne-au-Perche. There’s been a change in ownership and Lou, the new owner, will welcome you to plates of saucisson-sec and cheese. One to watch – I’m sure she will be great! 31 Rue Sainte-Croix, 61400 Mortagne-au-Perche
Maison Ceronne: A contemporary guesthouse and former farm known for its minimalist design and artistic atmosphere curated by Vincent-Louis, an interior architect, and Clément, an entrepreneur. The food is a lot about sharing plates either indoors or outside under a gigantic tree. La Gilberdière, 61380 Sainte-Céronne-lès-Mortagne
D’une Île: A classic for years, a must visit. Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat, the acclaimed duo behind Paris’s Septime and Clamato restaurants, are now the owners and will surprise you with daily specials. Domaine de Launay, Lieudit L’Aunay, 61110 Remelard
Café Chez Amis: A classic staple. Patricia and Arnaud are great hosts—our lunches always start with a fierce round of Negronis (followed by many more). The menus change daily – all freshly produced in Arnaud’s kitchen. 11 Rue de l’Église, 61110 Boissy-Maugis
Les Pres: One of the newer additions – Stéphane Renaud and Éric Brossard and their attentive service will make it a regular for many in Le Perche. 12 Route de Pigeon, 61400 Saint-Hilaire-le-Châtel
Villa Fol Avril: The restaurant emphasizes fresh, locally sourced ingredients, with a daily-changing menu presented on a slate board. Guests can sit in the dining room with its cozy fireplace in winter, or on the large terrace overlooking the garden. 2 Rue des Fers Chauds, 61110 Moutiers-au-Perche
Oiseau Oiseau: A celebrated neo-bistro and wine bar opened by chef Sven Chartier—formerly of Paris’s Michelin-starred Saturne—and his partner Marianne. It sits opposite a centuries-old church, but the interior is very clean, almost Scandi in style, with a wood-burning stove. It emphasizes a farm-to-table approach with an ever-changing menu that honors traditional French cuisine while incorporating modern twists. 5 Place Saint-Germain, 61340 Préaux-du-Perche
La Maison d’Horbé: A multifaceted spot in the heart of picturesque La Perrière that combines a restaurant, tearoom, flea market/gallery, and bed & breakfast. Meals are served in a baroque-style dining room or on a sunlit terrace, featuring duck foie gras, salmon tartare, and scrambled eggs with white truffle sauce. Or drop by the tearoom for a selection of teas and pastries. 17 Grande Place, 61360 La Perrière, Belforêt-en-Perche
Le Silo Cave; A three in one situation—café, wine bar, and cellar in Mortagne-au-Perche—established by Marie Verlhac and Valentin Le Cron, who left their urban lives in Montreuil to embrace the countryside. Le Silo is renowned for its curated selection of natural and biodynamic wines that emphasize local producers. During the day, it’s a cozy café serving locally roasted coffee from Noiram and cookies/other treats. 21 Rue du Général Leclerc, 61400 Mortagne-au-Perche
Where to Stay
Le Perche is famous for its charming guest houses, small hotels and stylishly renovated farmhouses, many of which are owned by Parisians who’ve left the city for a quieter life.
Maison Ceronne: The estate offers two heated swimming pools (indoor and outdoor), a sauna, a hammam, a gym, a Nordic bath, as well as a cinema room and karaoke lounge. The rooms are each individually designed with ‘60s/’70s/’80s designer furniture pieces.
D’une Île: The property encompasses eight hectares of meadows and forests, with a swimming pond, orchard, forest trails, and an outdoor sauna with views of maple trees. There are ten rooms spread across five buildings, each thoughtfully decorated with minimalist, bohemian-chic elements and antique furnishings sourced from regional markets. Guests can also hang out in communal spaces, like a cozy living room and dining area.
Les Prés: A refined countryside set in Saint-Hilaire-le-Châtel, this one-time hunting lodge for the Lords of Pigeon (and later a convent), has been meticulously restored, with nine individually decorated rooms and suites. The property is set amidst a sprawling park of centuries-old trees and bordered by the Hoëne River. The estate has beautiful gardens, a vegetable patch, an outdoor swimming pool with a pool house, and a riverside setting.
Villa Fol Avril: This elegantly rustic boutique hotel is set in a thoughtfully restored 19th-century coaching inn, in the village of Moutiers-au-Perche. Each of its 12 rooms exudes character, with exposed beams, antique furnishings, and natural materials like lime, terracotta, and timber. In the summer there’s also a heated outdoor pool.
La Maison d’Horbé has three spacious guest rooms, uniquely decorated to reflect the building’s history as a 19th-century coaching inn.
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