In short… In the beating heart of the historical centre of the Eternal City, The Grand Hotel Minerva has been stunningly restored back to her former glory. With one of the most impressive roof terraces in the city, if not the best, you can almost tap a grissini on the roof of the Pantheon next door.
The surroundings… You could not be more central. On Piazza della Minerva overlooking Bernini’s famous elephant obelisk, whether you turn left or right out of the revolving doors you’ll find yourself within a few minutes of Piazza Navona, Via del Corso or the Tiber River. Many decades ago, as a student living in Rome on the top floor of the nearby pensione Albrizzi, I only ever saw scarlet-clad American Cardinals entering and leaving and was never sure why – but as Gammarelli, the Popes outfitter is next door, perhaps this was where they stayed to have their cassocks and capes fitted.
The backstory… The hotel has been around forever and was hugely popular with the Grand Tourists, a group of English aristocrats who explored Europe in the 19th century to educate themselves, thus returning to their stately homes in England loaded up with incredible collections of Italian art. The hotel then slipped under the radar over the past few decades, when other luxury hotels in the city blossomed (the De Russie, JK Roma, the De La Ville) before being bought by the Orient Express group.
The vibe… Glamorous – it harks back to the Golden Age of Travel and you feel that everyone should dress accordingly. The glass-domed lobby sets the scene with the cocktail bar overseen by a vast statue of Minerva, the Goddess of Wisdom, who sagely advises you not venture forth back into the crowds, the selfie sticks and afternoon sunshine, but instead order a Negroni, settle down in the corner with a battered copy of Stendhal—who was, after all, a frequent visitor to the hotel along with Picasso and Herman Melville—and while away an hour or two there. Many guests go on to join one of the Orient Express train routes, possibly down to Sicily, north to Portofino, or into the heart of the Val d’Orcia wine country, which somehow seeps into the core of the hotel. One feels that this is not a one stop destination, but part of a much bigger journey – it really does feel as if it is part of a Grand Tour for the modern traveller
The Mexican-French designer Hugo Toro was a brilliant choice, having previously transformed Booking 1869, the restaurant and bar of the iconic St Pancras Station in London, as well as bringing a Hemingwayesque vibe to Terminal 1 at Charles de Gaulle. Lest we forget, the Minerva launched earlier this year in conjunction with La Dolce Vita, a sleeper train which sets off from nearby Ostiense Station with—yes, you guessed it—a fabulous departure lounge designed by Toro as well.
The rooms… I was in 104, a deluxe room with a piazza view and it felt like stepping into a scene from The Titanic: everything is bespoke, from the overhead, oversized mahogany ceiling fans to the bedside tables which look like vintage trunks, to the record player and desk replete with writing paper and envelopes. Despite being on the first floor, it was surprisingly quiet and peaceful, with a lovely big bed covered in Carmignani linen (the brand beloved of the original Orient Express train).
The hotel is big—the building dominates the entire side of Piazza della Minerva—and there are 93 bedrooms overall. Each of them is unique; however, the hotel was sold out when I was there and I was unable to see other rooms, which was a shame as my own bathroom layout consisted of three separate rooms for the shower, sinks and lavatory, and I was curious to see others had a less clunky layout.
The food & drink… Breakfast is at Gigi on the roof terrace and to be lingered over (again with that battered copy of Stendhal or Moby Dick) – those views really are jaw-dropping, with our favourite table overlooking the twisted spire of nearby Church of Sant Ivo della Sapienza, one of the most elegant Baroque churches in the city. Service needs to be fine tuned, but it’s early days and the staff couldn’t have been smilier, and breakfast when it did arrive was delicious. We weren’t convinced by the lady harpist strumming (if that’s what a harpist does) Coldplay first thing as you stepped out of the elevator, when surely the sounds of the bells chiming in surrounding churches is all one really needs. Dinner on the rooftop at Gigi is truly special—the view onto the Pantheon at sunset is incredible, you can practically touch it. We were relieved that the food wasn’t too fussy, as can happen at these five-star hotels.
The wellness… I don’t think this was ready – hand on heart I didn’t see it – but I heard they are building a Turkish hammam and spa based on ancient Roman bath houses.
The kid-friendly factor… Yes, but in keeping with the glamour of the hotel they should be in sailor suits and jaunty sun hats, accompanied by an old fashioned nanny in full livery and speaking with a clipped English accent. Jokes aside, it’s a great hotel for kids, and despite being in such a touristy part of town you still have local kids playing football against the doors of the church next door in the evening. And Giolitti, which serves ice cream until midnight, is a very quick stroll.
Extra tip goes to… One of the great joys of checking in was recognizing a loud voice from the concierge room next door – only to be swept up in a bear hug by Alessandra Cozzo, one of the best concierges in Rome, if not all Italy. Previously at Rocco Fortes, Hotel de Russie and De La Ville, Alessandra now runs the concierge desk at The Minerva and how lucky they are to have her.
Be sure to… Spend as much time as possible on the roof terrace. From every angle, during every hour of the day (and night), the view just gets better and better.
Parting words… If you don’t leave with Stendhal syndrome, there is something wrong with you – this was a term coined from the man himself in the 19th century, when travelling through Italy and exposed to a phenomena of great beauty, travellers would experience physical and even psychological symptoms often resulting in… bring on the smelling salts!
Date of stay… May 2025
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.