Last week I went to Taormina (the hill town in eastern Sicily overlooking Mt. Etna, that was a part of the Grand Tour back in the day), to check out the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace, which reopened in July after a multi-year, extensive renovation. We arrived quite late (it’s an hour north of Catania’s airport) and ate dinner at their restaurant by the pool, which had excellent seafood paccheri, an incredibly nice waiter, and a cool crowd (Sting was at the next table—we didn’t notice anyone else!).
The next morning, we woke up and saw how nice the room was—super high ceilings, very well appointed, and a terrace (with a plunge pool!) with incredible views of the town and the sea. If you’ve been to Taormina, you probably know this landmark property, a former 14th-century convent, and maybe you’ve even stayed here. This was my first visit so I can’t compare it to its last life, but it is incredibly lovely—the staff are super kind, the spaces are grand yet comfortable, and the garden is massive, befitting such a historic site.
The only other hotel I’ve stayed at in Taormina is the Grand Hotel Timeo, which is on the opposite end of town from the San Domenico, right underneath the ancient Greek Theater, with a lovely terrace that faces Etna. It’s also a five-star hotel, but there are other great options that aren’t at that price point. I have friends who always stay at the Villa Carlotta and love it. And I also hear good things about the Ashbee. When we walked up to Madonna della Rocca (a great morning walk that takes about 15 minutes straight up, where you’re rewarded with the best views), we passed a one-star hotel called the Villa Mabel, which looked incredible from the outside: little balconies holding two chairs and a table, with views to the sea, and just steps from Corso Umberto (the main drag). Of course, it doesn’t have a website, but from the photos of the inside, it looks like it has potential. You can also base yourself on the seaside and just pop into Taormina. (Our friend Linden loves the Villa Sant’Andrea.)
I love this town, though I know it isn’t for everyone—Corso Umberto is usually quite crowded with slow-moving tourists who stop at its endless shops selling limoncello, customized aprons, pottery and postcards. But I like its caught-in-time feeling—it doesn’t attract a “cool” crowd and have the scene they require, which for me often means that it loses what makes it special. My favorite stores are L’Agora, which sells vintage maps, photographs, prints and books, plus some vintage jewelry (a 19th-century cameo bracelet made from Vesuvio lava rock is one I’ve had my eye on), an antiques store that is just across the way ( I can’t remember the name, sorry! Addendum on Oct 8: the name is Galleria Novelli and it is owned by the sister and mother of L’Agora! ), which has an amazing edit of vintage jewelry, Di Blasi Ceramiche, which seems to have carried the same ceramic inventory for the last 100 years, and Auté, a ceramics store just next to the San Domenico, which has some really special pieces that stand out in a sea of Sicilian ceramics.
The concierge at the San Domenico sent us to two great restaurants—we said we wanted “nonna” food (this is my trick everywhere in Italy, because everyone gets what you want immediately). Trattoria da Ugo is a family-run spot just a 5-minute walk from the hotel, and we had a pretty perfect linguine alle vongole. The next night we went to Malvasia, just next door to da Ugo, where we had a delicious squid ink pasta. Also recommended but we didn’t stay a third night: Tiramisu. You can’t not get a granita at Bam Bar.
Taormina is a hill town, so if you want the beach, you have to plan for it—you don’t just walk down. Some hotels have beach clubs (the Four Seasons will open theirs next year)—the Grand Hotel Timeo’s sister hotel, the Villa Sant’Andrea, is on the beach, which you can get to by funicular or shuttle. But there are plenty of other clubs at different beaches. At the Sant’Andrea, you’ll have five star service—nice towels at the beach club and waiters bringing you whatever you like. One day, we discovered the Re del Sole, a fantastic restaurant with the kindest staff, and the sun beds were 8 euros apiece—lunch and beds were 60 euros total. Another day we had lunch at the Lido La Dolce Vita and had the best pasta alla Norma ever—they served it with an incredible baked ricotta salata. It has a very local vibe and they also have beach loungers.
If you find yourself in Taormina, make sure you ask if there is a performance happening at the Greek Theater. We didn’t, and it was only when we heard Sting doing a sound check that we realized he was playing that night. Unfortunately, we were too late and it was sold out, but we did sit on the terrace and listened to his familiar whispery voice floating down from across town.
