Just Back From…Pantelleria

I first heard about this island in the late ‘90s when I was obsessed with the photographer Fabrizio Ferri, who had a house here. In the early 2000s our friends invited us and Clara, who was then about two, to come stay with them in their rental, but I was put off by how hard it was to get there. Then Kate Lough wrote a story for us on the Parco dei Sesi, a small hotel on the island, and through that I got to know Margot, who owns it with her husband, Massimiliano, I was determined to finally make the trip. In June, there are several nonstops from certain cities, though not from Rome, and not daily. I found flights on DAT (Danish Air Transport), which I’d never heard of before, and built a trip around those–which is how we found ourselves in Palermo, since that was a convenient nonstop. I have to say, this was a dream airline.

When I wanted to push our flight from morning to afternoon, I emailed them and a real live human emailed me back to confirm the change, with no fee. There wasn’t an option when I bought the tickets to add luggage, which made me nervous, but when we arrived they just took our bags and didn’t charge us. The flight was only 30 minutes and the Pantelleria airport couldn’t be cuter or easier. Margot suggested a rental car place, Corsale, that offered vintage Fiat Panda options (of course we took that), but there are also modern ones with AC. First impressions were great–I loved the volcanic landscape and the single-story houses built into it. It all felt minimal, raw, wild, untouched. We headed straight to the Parco, which was exactly as I’d imagined it from Kate’s piece and Margot’s IG takeovers. It contains super thoughtful details and isn’t at all cluttered, even though Margot loves to collect vintage ceramics. It was a perfect home base for five nights there (and I wrote a Guest Book about it here). Several nights a week they do dinners–one was an epic pizza night (Massimiliano is an expert on the wood-burning oven!), and on another night their cook Angelo made a delicious feast that included carpaccio, risotto and several whole local fish. Every morning we’d confer with Margot as to what beach would be best depending on if it was windy or not, and where to have lunch near it. It reminded us of what we love about Upstate New York: it isn’t an easy place that presents itself immediately—as our friend Sciascia who’s been going there since the ‘90s said, “you have to earn your swim.” Locals pride themselves on being an island without beach umbrellas. You have to rent a car, and you’d better be prepared to drive stick. You’ll often have to drive 15 minutes to get somewhere, but it might be more like 40. Planes cancel all the time if there is a cloud hovering over the island. It’s an island that you have no control over—you just have to give into it, which is a big part of its appeal. 

A great rental

Our friend Sciascia Gambaccini has the most incredible compound in Pantelleria—we had lunch there when we visited the island last month. It’s beautifully appointed and sleeps 10-14 depending on how many dammusos you rent (there’s a main house and 3 guest houses that sleep 10, but you can rent 2 more if you’re a bigger group). It has the pool of my dreams and her cook Gina makes local recipes with local ingredients—nonna cooking at its finest.

Favorite restaurants

We didn’t leave the Parco dei Sesi much, and we were also visiting our friends Sciascia and Wayne, so you won’t find anything exhaustive here at all, but these were our favorites:

Il Principe e Il Pirata: While this was a 35-minute drive from the Parco, it’s worth it. The view over the sea is incredible, and the food was exactly what we love–simply prepared, unfussy but great ingredients. 

La Risacca: Everyone seems to apologize for the port town, which is decidedly not charming, but in a way I think that’s what keeps this island cool and not attracting loads of tourists. My friend Sciascia loves this place which overlooks the port, and definitely attracts local families more than a chic crowd. We absolutely loved it. Don’t miss their pasta Pantesco, which is basically like a fresh salsa, with tomatoes, capers, and almonds. 

Gelato d’Ulisse: I’m not one to go on and on about ice cream, but this one is outstanding. The woman who makes the ice cream every day by hand out of seasonal ingredients is brilliant. I had a dark chocolate with capers that I dream about. It’s right on the water and there’s a no-swimming sign, but according to my friends, everyone says it’s the best swimming and you won’t get in trouble, so go for it. 

Favorite swims

I’m not one who likes to hike to a swim that involves jumping off a rock, but this is a place for those who do love that. In spite of that, I still fell in love with the island! The places below are all easy entry swimming. Also, finding a boat to take you out for the day is ideal. Ask your hotel to book for you, but be advised these aren’t the luxury options you’ll find in places like Capri. 

Gadir: A sleepy fisherman’s village with underwater hot springs, and a nice wooden dock with a ladder into the water. 

Lago di Venere: A lake with the prettiest blue water, fed by rain and underground springs and lined in mineral and sulfur-rich mud. Most people who go there end up piling on the mud and baking in it to remove toxins and impurities. The others end up documenting that! A challenging island between Sicily and Tunisia that is so completely worth it

Cala di Levante: A beautiful spot for a swim close to many lunch options, so build a pre and post swim into the day.

Souvenirs

Make sure you stop at the Emporio del Gusto and pick up a jar of their Magma Pantesco, which is basically a delicious local version of a chili paste. Matt bought some dried green and pink peppercorns as well as capers. They have a huge selection of Sicilian wines, and they also serve wine bar-style food.