In a world full of distractions and reasons to stay in perpetual motion, it’s nice to have a place where you can relax and unwind. A place that feels refreshing and renewing. You can feel your shoulders drop, your jaw relaxes, and even your brain is at ease. For the last 10 years, my place has been the tiny island of Nevis in the West Indies. This place makes it all slow to a crawl. You can find refuge in the warm sun, cool waters and local cuisine and escape the demands and pressures of the world.
My wife (then girlfriend) and I were first introduced to Nevis in 2016. It was on the advice of an old friend that steered me to Nevis (instead of Antigua, St. Martin and even St. Barth) with a ring in hand to ask one important question. What has unfolded over the past 10 years has been unexpected and life changing. From our wedding and honeymoon to now sharing the island with our children, Nevis has become a family tradition and second home. Over this time, we have made many acquaintances that frequent the island and most importantly, we’ve formed lifelong friendships with some that feel like family. We prefer to travel either for Christmas/New Years or our anniversary in April, or sometimes both. For us, Nevis never gets old and I treat the time away as a much-needed reset. Plus, the weather is great year-round, bar a few late summer months where hurricanes could be a concern.
In the case of a holiday trip, we prefer to arrive sometime between December 15th and December 23rd to have time to relax and enjoy the build up to Christmas Day. Since Nevis was once a British colony, they take their Christmas festivities seriously and you’re able to enjoy a proper Boxing Day celebration as well.
American Airlines is the primary airlift in and out of St. Kitts, but Delta and others have service as well. Flying directly into Nevis is an option through St. Thomas and San Juan, Puerto Rico, at certain times of the year.
On the approach into St. Kitts, you get a perfect view of Nevis Peak across The Narrows in the center of the island. Typically, the clouds are covering the peak, which is where Nevis gets its name: “Nuestra Señora de las Nieves,” which means Our Lady of the Snow—a name given to the island by Spanish settlers, as the clouds presumably reminded them of the 4th-century Catholic miracle related to snow in a hot climate. Prior to the Spanish, the island was named “Oualie” by the Kalinago, meaning “Land of beautiful waters,” “Dulcina” by early British settlers, and by its sobriquet, “Queen of the Caribees,” due to its dynamism within the sugar trade. No matter the name, Nevis today exudes old Caribbean charm and ……and this is what I love about it. It feels real.
Off the plane, you will walk along the tarmac to clear customs, which is typically speedy and then you’re off to your transfer to Reggae Beach. It is a beautiful and scenic ride from the airport to the boat transfer, which I consider the start of my vacation. Once at the boat, you will take a 10-minute ride across The Narrows. This is the perfect amount of time to cool off with a local beer, such as Carib or Stag.
Hotels
Nevis is a small island (only 18 miles in diameter), which makes it an ideal destination for a shorter trip, but trust me when I say you can easily stay for weeks. There are several hotels that are family owned with tons of local charm—and there is the Four Seasons.
We’ve always preferred to stay at Montpelier Nevis, where we were married and honeymooned and have celebrated many Christmases since. Steeped in history, Montpelier is a former sugar plantation and the site of Admiral Nelson’s marriage to Fanny Nisbett. Montpelier has been owned by the Hoffman family since 2002 and many of the staff members have been with the property since long before, which makes you feel like you are spending time with your extended family. In addition to the private beach, tranquil pool, and recently updated rooms, the culinary program is top notch. My first stop upon arrival is always to see my dear friend, Kaddy, at Indigo, the Montpelier pool bar, for his legendary rum punch. And I can’t mention Montpelier without making note of Cosmo, the yellow labrador, who keeps watch over the property and will certainly convince you to share your lobster omelet.
Now that we have children, we’ve expanded into a house just up the hill from The Hermitage, another family-owned hotel that exudes old Caribbean charm with rooms that are rustic and understated in the best way. They have some of the best food on the island and are hosts of a West Indian Pig Roast on Wednesday nights that is not to be missed. Arrive early to the pig roast and visit Leshawn at the bar for his renowned rum punch to start your evening. They also have the only brick pizza oven on the island, and put it to good use on Monday nights.
There are several other hotel options on the island like Golden Rock Inn (if you’re not staying, you must visit for the lobster sandwich, chicken roti, and banana daiquiris), Oualie Beach Resort (a great beach spot), and of course the Four Seasons Nevis. The Four Seasons has one of our favorite spas with a cold plunge overlooking the volcano.
While much of the island remains unspoiled, we’ve noticed the inevitable change over the last decade. The main road is newly paved. There is a new community center and garden at Pinney’s beach. Nisbett Plantation Hotel closed permanently during the 2020 pandemic. There is now talk of a Special Sustainability Zone proposed by a pseudo-bond crypto villain that promises to be the “Monaco-Dubai of the Caribbean.” Needless to say, the locals are highly skeptical and concerned, but island leadership seems to have rolled out the red carpet for this development. Only time will tell what will become of it.
Restaurants/Bars
For a small island, Nevis has a great collection of restaurants and watering holes. Some of my favorites that are not affiliated with the hotels are located on the water.
Sunshine’s – A Nevis institution. Sunshine (or Sunny, if you know him) opened up shop in 1991 while the Four Seasons was being constructed. They are known for their lobster, jerk chicken and fresh fish, but are famous for their rum punch, The Killer Bee. Word to the wise: don’t have the third one, it stings. Ten years ago, after proposing to my wife, we wandered down the beach to celebrate with a few Killer Bees. Those cocktails led to our decision to bring our family and friends back to the island for our wedding several months later.
Drift – Nothing beats a slow lunch with Renita at Drift, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Drift serves excellent food (the lobster sandwich, grilled fish burger, and roti are not to be missed), but the main event is spotting sea turtles in the shallows just offshore. From your seat, you can spot incoming aircraft while overlooking Lover’s Beach with St. Kitts in the background, with some of the best vistas on the island. Drift also serves dinner and the owner’s artwork is on display throughout the space. My personal favorites are any of the donkey or monkey paintings.
Yachtsman – Located right on the beach and serves lunch and dinner. Solid wine selection as well.
Luna – If you are looking for a more elevated feel, head to Drift’s sister restaurant, Luna. Dinner is typically accompanied by steel pan music, and the food is some of the best on the island.
Rosies Patties – Off the beaten path. Fantastically local (as in you are at Rosie’s house in a predominantly residential area of the island).
Indian Summer – Excellent Indian food and great option for dine in or take out.
Glory’s Fried Chicken – Most weekends between Montpelier and the Hermitage, on the side of the road you can find Glory serving up the best fried chicken in all of the Caribbean.
Activities
Explore: Nevis has several beautiful hikes. The most challenging is Nevis Peak, where you will spend 4-6 hours ascending 3,200 ft up a dormant volcano. If you’re lucky, the clouds will have parted and you’ll have an incredible view. If not, you’ll be in the middle of the clouds, which is still a neat experience. Well worth it but pro tip: bring plenty of water and mind the rum punch the night before. There is also a hike to several waterfalls and natural pools called the Russel’s Rest Hike. It’s much less strenuous and will take you about 3hrs. Saddle Hill is another worthwhile and moderate hike. It’s the site of a former British naval fort that Admiral Nelson used to spot enemy ships. So naturally it has great views.
Fishing: Book a full day or half day charter with Capt. Clivin Christmas with Blackfin Charters. I recommend a morning charter to be back in time for a slow afternoon at the beach.
Beaches
Lover’s Beach is a secluded oasis that feels like a private beach. No houses or hotels within eye shot, so it feels like you’re on a deserted island. Perfect for a quiet day at the beach to read a good book or a romantic afternoon by the water.
Pinneys Beach is the main beach. It’s surrounded by restaurants and bars. Most locals come here, but it’s also the drop-off point for several tour boats that come in from St. Kitts, so it can get quite crowded.
Montpelier Beach – If you’re staying at Montpelier, you’ll be set with their private beach. It’s located near Yachtsman and has a private bar.
Oualie Beach is great for children. It’s located in a protected cove. You can stop in and get food and drinks from the Oualie Beach Hotel bar and enjoy the calm waters.
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