In short… A hotel that gets the balance exactly right—between grand and intimate, formal and relaxed, historically respectful and fresh—all in an excellent location near the Spanish Steps.
The backstory… The building that now houses the Hotel d’Inghilterra was built in the 16th century as a guesthouse for the palazzo across the street. In 1845, its noble owner converted it into a hotel—then called the Hôtel d’Angleterre—as a beacon to the young British aristocrats passing through Rome on their Grand Tours. The area was a magnet for literary expats, including John Keats and other Romantic poets, whose presence helped draw their countrymen to what became known was the “English ghetto.” Over the decades, the hotel became a favorite among other boldfaced international travelers—from Oscar Wilde and Mark Twain to Ernest Hemingway… and later, a parade of Hollywood legends like Elizabeth Taylor, Gregory Peck, and Audrey Hepburn. Starhotels acquired the property in 2018 and reopened it in 2024 after a top-to-bottom restoration.
The surroundings… The area around Via Borgognona is now a bustling Roman shopping neighborhood lined with all the Italian and global luxury brands, and is very well located, just a couple of minutes from the Piazza di Spagna and Spanish Steps (so you can get there early before the crowds). Thankfully, the hotel’s entrance itself is on a quiet street between via Condotti and via Frattina, which makes it a peaceful eddy protected from the flume of shoppers a block away.
The vibe… Stepping through the doors of the wedding-cake façade – palest pink stucco with white columns – you enter a surprisingly intimate hallway. The floors are black-and-white marble, and the space is warmly decorated with plaster palms, red-shaded sconces, and a table topped with several overflowing and artfully arranged vases of flowers. I’d arrived early from the airport, and since my room wasn’t ready, I was led from the charming reception room — lined in hand-painted wallpaper depicting Rome’s parks — through a salotto arranged with neoclassical antiques, gold Rubelli-upholstered sofas, damask wallpaper and alabaster busts, and into a cozy library with Hermès-orange couches and black-lacquered bookshelves. Here, breakfast was delivered on an elegant tray. Entering via this sequence of small, graceful rooms, rather than a cavernous hotel lobby, felt so welcoming. I was nearly asleep in the muffled silence of the library when someone let me know my room was ready.
The rooms… Each one of the hotel’s 80 guest rooms is different. On the 1st and 3rd floors, the rooms are swathed in silk and velvet textiles by Rubelli in historic shades of ruby, mustard, green, and blue, with herringbone wood floors running throughout. I stayed in a junior suite on the 1st floor with a cool palette of aqua and azure—a long custom sofa in the living room, decorative moldings, Chinese ceramic lamps, and a restored crystal chandelier; the spacious bathroom was white marble. I got a peek into a few other rooms—some a bit bold in color for my taste, but the craftsmanship was amazing: canopy beds draped in yards of silk, Murano chandeliers, and antiques beautifully restored by Fersini Restauro, a local workshop that uses Florentine gold leaf and other traditional techniques.
The 2nd floor rooms have a more Anglo vibe, with William Morris wallpapers that echo original patterns uncovered during the renovation, while the 4th floor leans more modern in décor. The 6th floor Presidential Suite has a 70-square-foot terrace with an outdoor bathtub, dining area, and views of Villa Medici, Villa Borghese, and the Quirinal Palace.
My room had a few other thoughtful little touches: monogrammed pillowcases, freshly cut flowers in both the living room and bathroom, one of the softest robes I’ve ever put on, and universal outlets by the bed with both USB-A and USB-C ports—always appreciated.
The food & drink… I’ll start with the bar, which was fantastic—a sultry little boîte just off the main lobby, with black leather banquettes, mirrored walls, and just 3 or 4 brass-top tables. I had dinner there my first night, still full from a late lunch and craving something simple: a martini (made with Tuscan gin) and a Roman-style pizza. The only other guest at that hour was a woman—a chatty local regular who shows up most nights for a drink with her small terrier—but the bar started to fill up towards the end of our meal. Adriano, the restaurant manager, took great care of me that evening, returning frequently, as he did the next night, when I dined at Café Romano. The menu is built around small producers from Lazio, the region surrounding Rome, with ingredients sourced from local markets and the Anzio fish auctions. I had a delicious zucchini flower stuffed with cacio e pepe-flavored cheese filling (perfectly crisp), followed by chicken alla diavola with a potato terrine and sauteed chicory. Adriano also brought out a putnarelle salad with anchovy dressing, off-menu but in season, because I’d mentioned wanting to try it. He suggested a Frascati from Lazio called Terso, which was fresh and quite unusual. There’s live music in the restaurant on some nights, and the singer seemed to draw a mix of Romans and out-of-towners who filled the streetside tables for much of the evening.
Good for family? Yes – several rooms can connect, and the hotel can organize babysitting. Plus the walls are so thick and its surfaces so well padded with textiles and plush rugs, I suspect neighboring rooms can’t hear crying babies or jumping kids.
The wellness… There’s a small fitness room open 24 hours, but no spa.
Parting words… I really loved the scale of this hotel – it has both a stately elegance and an intimacy that are hard to combine. And the service was truly excellent – very friendly while also polished.
Date of stay… November 2024
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