In short… A boutique hotel with beautifully restored sandstone cottages on a family-owned, former working-farm on the Black Isle (a less-traversed part of the Scottish Highlands) with a private grass airfield.
The vibe… Luxurious without feeling stiff, Newhall Mains is the perfect place to spend your days taking in the natural beauty of the area—be it spotting bottle-nosed dolphins, getting a cycle in, or hiking to the top of Fyrish Hill (with your pup in tow, as some cottages and rooms are dog-friendly!), all while knowing that you’ll be returning to lavish comfort when you’re through.
The best way to get a sense of place is from 1,000 feet in the air. There is nothing more impressive than sitting next to owner-operator-pilot-extraordinaire, Euan, in the tweed-clad cockpit of his 6-seater 1970s vintage Beechcraft plane—which he lovingly calls “Bessie”—as you circle the summit of Ben Wyvis, the largest hill in the area.
The rooms… Newhall Mains has five separate stone cottages, each named after Euan and his siblings, and four double bedroom suites in the main house. We stayed in Red Gates, which is the largest of the cottages and the former coach house.
With two floors and three bedrooms, Red Gates was big enough to feel like we had two separate wings, while still feeling cozy. Thoughtful touches like fabric-patterned headboards, every design magazine I might want to read, and a working log burner set the perfect ambiance that almost makes you want to spend the day inside. There is subtle sophistication throughout—Robert Welch cutlery and Stölzle glassware and the comfiest bedding set-up (fluffy duvets, white linens, 100 percent sheep wool quilts!) that rivals any opulent hotel I’ve stayed in.
Despite being former farm outbuildings, there is nothing twee or overly rustic-feeling about the spaces. And the cottages are outfitted with all of the joys of modern living, like heated floors and a washer-dryer in your personal boot room. The team at Kelling Designs worked alongside local Scottish craftsmen to create the bright and pared-back interiors, choosing floral prints and jewel-tone velvets that give the property a layered country-house feeling, departing from the more darky and moody interiors that can be often found in Highland properties.
The wellness… Is there anything better for health than spending time by the sea? Or excuse me, the firth? The hotel recently added a wood-fired sauna and cold plunge this season, and guests can also feel absolutely refreshed with the salty air enjoyed during a walk (or wild swim) along the Cromarty Firth.
We spent the bulk of our stay outside—either on a dolphin-spotting excursion, guided hike, or using one of the complimentary bicycles. If we had stayed longer, I definitely would have arranged a horse ride with one of the local guides.
The food… With a focus on local produce, the culinary staff often forages for ingredients on the estate and the honey comes from their own bees. The result is a hyper-seasonal menu that changes regularly. For me, I was delighted by Newhall Mains’ take on traditional desserts including the Eton Mess, a combination of crunchy meringue, whipped cream, and strawberry sauce.
For any beverage connoisseurs, I’m sure the Japanese-inspired whisky bar and expansive wine and cocktail list are sure to be highlights. Breakfast also took place in the restaurant—a former grain store—and was a lovely continental breakfast with everything one could desire. The fresh produce was otherworldly.
I have to admit that while I loved dinner and breakfast, the lunches stole the show. One of them, a generously packed picnic hamper prepared for our hike to the Fyrish Monument, concluded our trek with the best scone of my life. Topped with clotted cream and strawberry jam and enjoyed over the stunning view from the top of the Fyrish Hill, I haven’t had such a delight since.
Another notable lunch, a sprawling spread of soup, sandwiches, and unbelievable salads, was enjoyed in the sun-filled courtyard (which I’m told isn’t that rare of an instance as the Black Isle has a bit of a good weather vortex?) under a gorgeous floral and striped umbrella that I simply need in my own home one day.
Extra tip goes to… I can’t say enough good things about Euan, the gregarious and attentive owner, who really is the heart of the place. Thoughtful without being overbearing, he truly delights in making sure you have a fabulous time. Every detail is considered, from the customized itinerary and hand-written welcome note to the generously-packed, monogrammed picnic hamper that appeared for our hike.
The logistics… One of the best ways to set the vibe for a trip to Newhall Mains is to drive up from Edinburgh and make a must-needed stop at The House of Bruar, lovingly called “The Harrods of the North” in homage to its luxury brands and fabulous food offerings. After impulsively purchasing a feathered wool hat and a denim shirt (encouraged by Choe), I felt perfectly outfitted for our countryside outing.
Later I learned that if we were to have arrived by train or car in Inverness, Euan would have been happy to pick us up in the plane and hand-deliver us to the Mains via the lush grass airfield. Will note this for next time!
Be sure to… Take Euan up on his offer of an early-morning dolphin-spotting excursion. Donning thick royal blue drysuits, we spent the next two hours out at sea with local tour operator EcoVentures searching the waves for the dolphin fins.
An absolute highlight was the collective elation that overtook us all when we finally spotted a family of bottle-nosed dolphins in the last twenty minutes of our outing.
Parting words… Newhall Mains is an under-the-radar treasure in the Scottish Highlands that won’t stay a secret for long. Best enjoyed with the company of travelers who both delight in outdoor adventure and also appreciate really nice wallpaper, I’d make sure to stay a few days to get the most out of this restorative and wholesome retreat in the countryside.
Date of stay… October 2024
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