In short… A holistic wellness hotel and spa that takes itself seriously, but not too seriously. Think acupuncture and Qi Gong by day, Negronis and crisps by night – the sweet spot between detox and dolce vita.
The surroundings… Lefay Resort & Spa sits high in the hills above Lake Garda, the less manicured, more laid-back sister to Lake Como. The hotel is surrounded by 11 hectares of lemon trees, herb gardens and olive groves, with panoramic terraces and shaded paths for wandering aimlessly. The infinity pool is the showstopper, merging with the lake and horizon so seamlessly that you could skim a stone straight into the sky.
The backstory… Opened in 2006 by husband-and-wife team Domenico Alcide Leali and Liliana Lili, formerly behind the airline Air Dolomiti, Lefay Lake Garda was conceived around sustainability, wellness and Italian style long before ‘holistic’ became a buzzword in the wellness world. The property remains family-run, with day-to-day leadership now in the hands of their son, CEO Alcide Leali. At its centre is the signature spa – the true heart of the resort – from which everything else flows.
The rooms… Spacious, quiet, and a little dated, but with all the trimmings: Illy machines, marble bathrooms, heated floors and terraces that look out across the lake. There are 96 suites designed with Italian walnut and olive woods, soft fabrics and plenty of light. The entry-level Prestige and Deluxe Junior Suites have king beds, marble bathrooms and private terraces overlooking the lake or gardens. At the top end, the Sky Suite has its own sauna and outdoor hot tub with panoramic lake views, and the Royal Pool and Spa Suite is a world of its own: private garden, infinity pool, spa area and a concierge on speed dial.
The wellness… After the excesses of the festive season, there are few better places than Lefay to hit the reset button. Before you arrive, you complete a questionnaire covering sleep, stress, and eating habits, then meet your assigned doctor, who tailors a program accordingly. I was put on a detox program – a Chinese-medicine-inspired reset designed to reduce inflammation, support liver and digestive function, and rebalance energy.
Lefay’s programmes address detoxification, sleep, stress reduction, weight balance, and postural realignment, combining classical Chinese medicine with Western research. My doctor explained that most detoxes begin with the liver or kidneys before a schedule of acupuncture, cupping, cryotherapy and Qi Gong is prescribed – plus something called moxibustion, which looks suspiciously like being stubbed out with tiny cigars (worth it, I promise). The detox mud wrap made me feel like a cocooned caterpillar, but the olive-oil massage that followed more than compensated. The full detox runs for five or ten nights; I was there for three, but even in that short stint, I left noticeably fresh-faced, bushy-tailed and light enough on my feet to forget I was even wearing shoes in the first place.
The spa itself is vast – 4,300 square metres dedicated entirely to wellbeing – with multiple pools (including an Olympic-length infinity pool and thalassotherapy baths), six saunas and steam rooms, ice fountains and panoramic relaxation zones overlooking the lake. There’s a high-tech gym, yoga and Pilates studios, and guided ‘energy garden’ walks for those who prefer slower, more meditative movement.
The food… La Limonaia, the resort’s main restaurant (the other being Gramen, their plant-and fish-based fine dining restaurant), serves refined Italian dishes with a local, seasonal – and, if you wish, indulgent – slant. Expect borage and ricotta tarts, sea bass carpaccio with citrus, or octopus salami, followed by burrata-filled ravioli or asparagus and truffle risotto. For the sinners, it’s a toss-up between the tiramisu and molten chocolate cake; for the saints, a cup of verbena tea and seasonal fresh fruit more than suffice.
During the detox, I ate from Lefay’s dedicated spa menu, designed for those following the program and built around gluten-free, dairy-free, and prebiotic dishes – standouts included their delicious miso soup, homemade sweet potato gnocchi, and their comforting vegan curries. It may also sound ‘fun-free’, but I always left the table properly satiated, helped along by the fact that there were no rules on extra-virgin olive oil, which I drizzled over everything – when it tastes like it was pressed by the goddess Athena herself, can one be blamed?
The vibe… Unpretentious and deeply relaxed, the kind of place where you can go at your own pace. No one’s forcing you to starve here; you can sip your hot lemon water next to a couple on their second mimosa at breakfast. The guests were mostly Italian (always a good sign), with a scattering of Americans and Brits, and it felt very much like the sort of place Italians come to reset. Saunas are plentiful, robes quickly become the dress code, and il dolce far niente – the art of doing nothing – is not just permitted but fully encouraged.
Special shout-out… To Teddy, the whippet-thin masseur who explained that everyone has three types of feet – Greek, Roman or Egyptian. Mine, apparently, are Egyptian, which means I’m a traveler who shouldn’t be trapped and I should explore the world as much as I can. Writing this, I realize he might’ve been onto something.
Be sure to… Take the free shuttle down to Gargnano, a small, unhurried town still free from the crowds that swamp the rest of the lake. Order a sharp espresso at ViaRoma36, or a last-minute Aperol and tomato bruschetta at Osteria al Baccaretto with views of the lake before retreating to your detox. Fun fact: the town is famous for its lemon groves and historic lemon houses that produce liqueurs, jellies and mustards.
Date of stay… 8-11 October, 2025
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