In short… The most legendary hotel in town, attracting the glitterati and bucket listers since 1923
The surroundings… It’s just a five-minute walk to the Koutoubia Mosque through the gardens, so you’re literally 10 minutes max from the heart of the Medina, and a 10-minute drive from all the best restaurants in Gueliz.
The vibe… When we first arrived, I wasn’t sure if stylistically La Mamounia was for me—the lobby was quite massive and impersonal, with a giant lighting installation (sorry no pic, I didn’t take one!)—which, along with brands like Dior, Pierre Hermé and Jean Georges, read more Vegas than the old-world Moroccan elegance I was hoping for. But once our room was ready and we went up to the second floor, everything started to really look up. I loved the long, dark moody hallways filled with black-and-white vintage photography, and all the historical details everywhere. Apparently Jacques Garcia did a brilliant renovation that was complete in 2009, but for the centennial anniversary, they brought in Jouin Manku, who definitely modernized it. Between our room, wandering the hallways, and the 20 acres of incredible gardens, I was completely won over.
The rooms… We didn’t see any room other than our 210, which was great: a big bedroom and bathroom, nice living room (okay maybe there could have been more closet space!), and a big balcony (with loungers) the length of the room, which overlooked the garden and the Atlas Mountains beyond. Timeless decor. Apparently Jacques Garcia did these rooms in 2009, and I hope they never change! Loved the floor tilework, the painted ceilings… and the small shower compartment (but with a giant rain shower head!), which was intimate and sweet. I’m so over the giant shower rooms that newly constructed or renovated hotels think are luxurious—I always feel lost in them. I liked the products in the bathroom with their orange scent so much that I took the shampoo home with me. I also appreciated that housekeeping loops the belts into the bathrobes properly!
The food & drink… It’s so rare that a welcome drink surprises me, but this one—almond milk with rosewater and a date alongside—was impressive. Our lunch in the Bar Majorelle was simple and delicious—a club sandwich that was one of better ones I’ve had—all the ingredients were the same size, so it didn’t all fall apart. We had dinner at their Le Marocain restaurant and were very impressed—our waiter said we should order the lamb Tanjia, a traditional local dish slow-cooked in a clay pot in ashes—and it was delicious. We’re not usually breakfast people, but we did order room service of regular coffee, which came within five minutes of calling. The breakfast buffet was included, and I quite liked their Moroccan pickles and breads, but I steered clear of the overly creamed scrambled eggs and ordered fresh sunny-side up from the menu. Le Churchill Bar is excellent, named after one of its most famous and frequent guests. Apparently on a visit in 1947, when he came to write his memoir, the former prime minister and his entourage took over an entire floor for five weeks and ran up a bar bill of 100k. While our friends who have been coming here for years bemoan the renovation in which they completely removed the original panelling and other details, it is still an intimate bar with only twelve-ish seats in a semi-oval and the bartender in the middle. Mr. Hafid, the excellent bartender, made us perfect Tanqueray 10 martinis, and the popcorn they serve with them is deliciously buttery and perfectly salted.
The wellness…There’s an excellent gym in the middle of the garden, which has floor-to-ceiling windows and is light-filled, with free weights, machines, and all Technogym equipment. The staff who work there keep it spotlessly clean. There’s also a sauna within the gym, and clay tennis courts and padel if that is your jam. I didn’t experience the spa, but I’ve heard it’s lovely.
Be sure to… Walk through the gardens. They are so special—when do you get to walk through 20 acres of plants and trees, many of which were planted in the 18th century. Not to mention all the sweet cats that roam it. Some 20-25 cats live on property and are all looked after and vaccinated; many have their morning path to come get a drink from the big center fountain.
Date of stay…Feb 2-4, 2026
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