In short… Classical Roman grandeur in an unbeatable location near the Spanish Steps, but set back just enough that it doesn’t feel chaotic when you step out the lobby door.
The backstory… The building that’s now Hotel de la Ville has been here since the 18th century, when the palazzo served as an apartment complex for European nobility. Its latest transformation culminated in a full restoration and reopening by the Rocco Forte Hotels group in 2019, who also own the nearby Hotel de Russie. The building’s aristocratic legacy comes through in the Neoclassical design, mosaic floors, plenty of gold trim, and the ballrooms. But the spa, by contrast, is new, spotless, modern, and exactly what you want after a day walking around a city that can be hostile to Ubers or taxis.
The vibe… Everyone and everything in the 104-room hotel is very looked after. The staff are sharp and helpful without hovering. (I accidentally pulled the help cord in the shower and someone was at my door in two minutes.) The crowd was mostly tourists, a few families, and our (very large) wedding group. There was also a tech business conference happening somewhere in the hotel, but you wouldn’t have known unless you went looking for it. So much of the building is connected by narrow corridors and hallways, it’s almost like some parts are meant to remain secret.
The rooms… Bigger than expected for Rome, with a bathroom about half the size of the bedroom. The AC was easily the best I felt anywhere in Italy. My room didn’t have a balcony, but a lot of them do, facing the courtyard. I could spot the corner of the Spanish Steps from my window. The place feels grand – heavy curtains, dark velvet chairs, Renaissance-style art and statues – enough old-school detail to remind you it’s a former palazzo, but not the kind of overdone baroque that feels like you’re in a museum.
Food and drink… Cafe Ginori downstairs, which features the stunning and colorful Florentine china, is solid for coffee. But Cielo on the rooftop is the real reason to eat here. I had probably my favorite meal of the whole trip up there, just a bowl of spaghetti pomodoro and a Negroni, looking out over the ancient city. The sea bass was also quite good. A warning that it is incredibly overpriced, but honestly, it is a worthy trade-off for that view (plus those magisterial fans that spray mist at you).
The wellness… The Irene Forte spa (founded by Sir Rocco’s daughter) is well done: cold plunge, steam room, hot tub, rain showers, full gym with a bench. It is a neatly nested bastion of modernity in what can at times feel like a puzzle of wings and hallways.
Is it kid-friendly? There were a few kids around, but the place feels more adult. Quiet and serious, not geared toward families but also not discouraging of their presence.
Extra tip goes to… The gray-haired concierge who helped me put on my tuxedo cufflinks before the wedding. A small gesture from an absolute signore.
Be sure to… Order the carbonara eggs at breakfast. Heavy and quite cheesy, but indulgent in the best way.
Parting words… Great location, easy to get to and from, and you can sleep well without hearing the whole city outside your window.
Date of stay… June 23-29, 2025
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