Dispatch from the Nicoya Peninsula

My first trip to Costa Rica was 26 years ago. At 22, living in the East Village of NY, I felt the call of an unknown land where horses ran free, and where I could explore endless beaches and small coves. Ready to try the Caribbean side with a friend, we jumped on a plane from NY and found ourselves in Puerto Viejo. It’s a hazy memory, and somewhere I have photos that capture the essence of that time. We found ourselves in a bungalow surrounded by small farms, black sand, hammocks and warm water—no hotels, no iPhones. Simple, soft and raw. A few years later, I visited the Osa Peninsula, in the country’s southwest, a contrast to the Caribbean side. The Osa is a jungle, with wild animals and wild surf. 

Amazingly, there are so many more sides to Costa Rica. More recently, carried by the flow of life, I’ve been exploring the Nicoya Peninsula, arguably best known for the expat-friendly surf town of Nosara on its western flank. Santa Teresa, where I’ve landed at the southwest tip in the middle of Mal País, is a bit more rugged and wild—a surf town comprising beach, jungle and private homes. The first time I visited was with dear friends, 12 years ago. I fell in love, immersed as we were in the jungle beside a span of magnificent beaches, a surf break right out front, tide pools in hidden coves, dirt roads, horseback riding through farms, the sweatiest yoga and the voices of the howler monkeys throughout the night. My body felt powered up by the sun and by nature, and through the years I kept coming back. 

Of course, things are a bit different now—more restaurants, more humans, more more, like many places in the world. Even so, I continue to love this place, which always feels like home. Here, blanketed in nature, I walk humbly and can feel Earth’s heartbeat. Putting down roots part-time, I’ve gone in on a small property in Santa Teresa with some dear friends and magic humans, where we have each reimagined 4 beach casitas, every one unique, and which we sometimes rent out when we travel. Tucked behind the sounds of the ocean and down a dirt road, Otorongo has been a dream to create, a space for my passion. I have developed something of a ritual in creating altars whenever I travel to ground myself, but my homes are devotions of love, altars in themselves, as is this Costa Rican home, which I’m happy to share with you.

Here are a few things I love in and around Santa Teresa, which includes Playa Hermosa, a stunning stretch of coast to the north, and Montezuma on the peninsula’s eastern gulf.

Eat & Drink

Cafe Social in Santa Teresa is great for fresh smoothies, breakfast, big salads for lunch and delicious coffee; get there early for home-baked medialunas. Also Brekkie for smoothies, eggs and sandwiches. Next door, at a small market called La Pulpeyou, pick up eggs, veggies, fruit, incense, bread, and cheese. 

For dinner, Chicken Joe’s is great for a super casual and easy meal of Peruvian-inspired rotisserie chicken and ceviche—I love it here. Convivio has a wood-burning oven, really good wine and cocktails. Their fish is so fresh and flavorful, and my carnivore friends love the steak. Kojis is always a good spot, especially if you’re bringing friends, with a great active vibe. It’s Japanese fusion and the food comes out quick, so make sure to stagger your order. Rocamar is a locals’ favorite for sunset drinks or dinner. You can get delicious mezcalitos to go and bring them down to the beach or have fish tacos, ceviche, bowls with fish beans and rice for dinner.  

As the town grows, there are three new restaurants in Santa Teresa that I recommend: Yasumi is a small Japanese counter-style restaurant with natural wines, good sake, fresh salads and hand rolls. Chez Coco, a French bistro-style restaurant, is open until 5, with a wine bar on Fridays. DokiDoki Cantina is more of a concept brand, serving Mexican cuisine. It’s so well designed and they do collaborations with different chefs, so check their Insta to see what’s happening. 

If you feel like you want to explore a bit one day, don’t miss lunch at Playa de los Artistas, a 30-minute drive from Santa Teresa in Montezuma, a Mediterranean meal on the beach served on beautiful clay dishes. I love their bruschetta, the whole fish and crisp white wine to go with it. 

Tipsy in Santa Teresa for good wine. Ask for the vino verde from Portugal with the hand-painted label by artist Melina Tertzakian—delicious.

The private chef and magic human Glenda (@delasfloresmarin) hosts small dinners as well as creating intimate dinners in your home, or on the beach, as well as full day meals to have prepared for you in your fridge. Her energy, her kindness, her food and passion are a full experience. 

Shop/Artisans

Designed by Tash makes beautiful hand-spun natural-dye clothing and homewares. 

I always find something in Studio Colectiva—homewares, jewelry and clothing, which the owner sources from local to the far away and in between. 

For homewares, containers from Bali arrive at Tropical Living. I go often, always buying their woven rattan lighting pendants in perfect sizes and shapes. For little gifts, I also love brass mermaid or palm-tree bottle openers from India.

Pawo – I always stop in this shop to see what they have and I inevitably find something—they carry local brands including good cotton underwear, simple linen dresses and tops, and woven bags, which I never need but always want. 

Do & Explore

I love to ride horses at Ario farms in Manzanillo—you can ride through the farm and end up on the beach at sunset. Get a tour of the land and learn about the wildlife and jungle. 

In Montezuma – The waterfalls and hikes are epic. Sunsets are a ritual: everyone gathers along the coast, and every spot is good. Thankfully there are no hotels or beach bars lining these shores. The only thing to do is enjoy the surf, walk, swim and watch the sunset.

Most beaches in this area have big waves. Playa Hermosa is stunning, expansive, and great for surfing; you can hire instructors for a lesson there. For calmer waters, head to the tide pools at low tide—you can find them at any beaches from Mal País to Manzanillo. There are amazing tide pools in Santa Teresa across from the Perfect Sunset restaurant. 

Yoga at House of Shakti with Nancy Goodfellow – I’ve been going to her class for years, previously at the beautiful studio at Pranamar, but she has since opened her own studio, which I highly recommend taking a drive to. 

Stay

We’re going to start renting out our Otorongo casitas—they’re no frills, but we’ve put a lot of love into them. Otherwise, there are so many villas and small hotels In Santa Teresa, a lot of them on Airbnb. On the jungle side and up the hill is a newish boutique hotel, Mint Santa Teresa. On the beach, Florblanca is a bit more luxury. In the northern part of Santa Teresa, I recently visited Luna Kai, a rental that looked lovely with a big stone bathtub, pool and open kitchen. House of Somos, in Santa Teresa, a perfect spot for younger surfers or anyone who wants more action. Part lodging/part restaurant, they also have a surf shop, art gallery, café, and a class schedule of training, yoga, and movement. They make a great coffee and breakfast burrito. 

Up the hill, sitting above the beach in a more remote setting is the Ecocoon Tree Lodge, where you can use their saunas and cold plunge; they also offer retreats, yoga and sound healing.

In Playa Hermosa, Batik Costa Rica villas are beautiful and high end, if you want to be more tucked away.

Getting there

Santa Teresa isn’t the easiest, which is what makes it so special! Fly into San Jose, and from there it’s either a 1.5-hour drive to a ferry (which is another 1.5 hours), then a 45 minute drive to Santa Teresa. Or you can take a puddle jumper from San Jose airport into Cobano. Or fly into Liberia and drive 4 hours, though the roads can be wild! 

This list could go on and on, but really I just want to recommend that you sink in, find your way, and allow the way to find you. Drink a coconut daily, eat watermelons with lime, mangoes, and ceviche, walk on the beach and keep walking. Find a tide pool, get some clay, slather it on your face, and hang out in the shallow water. Take naps in the middle of the day when it is too hot to think. Rent a 4×4 jeep and take a road trip to Nosara—there are so many places to explore. Do not miss a single sunset: set a ritual and say everything you are grateful for as the sun hits the horizon until it goes down. Consume less, pick up some trash on the beach, be barefoot as much as you can be, swim in the warm waters, surf, and plan to get dusty, very dusty.