When I first heard of Jersey, I never imagined that this tiny island sandwiched between England and France would have some of the most beautiful beaches in the world—and the cutest cows. Instead, I pictured grey beaches and casinos, all a ferry ride away from Manhattan. But wow, was I wrong. Just a 30-minute flight southwest of London in the English Channel, Jersey is a funny, fascinating mix of France and the UK.
Although the population today is largely British, all of the street signs are in French and the beaches mirror those along France’s west coast, which stretch along for miles into the Atlantic. Jersey was originally a part of the Duchy of Normandy and came under English control in the 13th century, but its proximity to France also plays a part in the continued influence—you’ll often see French school groups in town, and the easy trip from St. Malo keeps international ties afloat. While Jersey is now part of the United Kingdom, you can still feel the history of the French presence in the architecture and names of towns and beaches—if botched by pronunciation in a British accent.
Despite being a tiny island, it’s by no means easy to crack. The main town of St Helier is in the center-south of the island, with smaller hamlets and villages sprinkled around the beaches and central farmland. The west is anchored by St. Brelade’s and the east by Gorey, with its historic castle overlooking the bay. (Jersey is best navigated by car, as the buses run on island time and taxis are expensive.) The whole island is a very IYKYK sort of place, run by the locals, so many of the “cooler” spots are not widely known. It’s taken me several trips to figure out my favorite restaurants, coffee shops, and beaches, but I think after visiting for over 2 years now—thanks to my boyfriend being a born-and-bred Jerseyman—I’ve come up with a pretty good list.
Like many places in the UK and France, Jersey truly shines in summer. The beaches are never too busy, and the water is perfectly chilly, so you can still cool off. And there’s really nothing better than a Jersey soft-serve ice cream, made with milk from the island’s iconic cows, which originated here (there are more than 4,000 today, with strict import bans on other breeds) and are known for producing some of the creamiest and most delicious milk.
WHERE TO EAT
Make sure to get coffee at Bean Around the World in the main town of St Helier – it’s the best coffee on the island and usually my first stop from the airport!
The Potato Shack is my favorite restaurant here. It’s the cutest little stone house located on a farm with a loyalty farm stand and some of the best food on the island. I love the hash made with their homegrown Jersey royal potatoes and their Jersey beef burger. They also make their own ice cream.
El Tico is another Jersey classic, located right on the beach overlooking St. Ouens. It’s your typical beach cantina, with a big menu and great food all day. It can get pretty busy and they don’t take reservations, but it’s not a bad place to wait on a sunny day.
The Hungry Man is something of a Jersey icon, and was the first place I was brought on my initial visit to the island. Located on the pier in Rozel on the northeast corner of the island, this is the place to get a burger. They have a great one made with Jersey beef, and one property titled the “Double Decker Health Wrecker”—try at your own risk! Not only is the food great, but it’s a lovely place to eat on a nice day, overlooking the water and the cute town.
Archirondel Cafe, also known as the Driftwood cafe, is another great beach cafe right on the rocky beach at Archirondel. They have a great full English breakfast and it’s a lovely way to spend a weekend morning.
Jeju in Saint Helier is located in the town’s indoor fish market and is great for lunch! They serve amazing Korean food, rice bowls, kimbap and more, and it’s perfect for a quick bite and a lovely takeaway lunch.
Locke’s Saint Helier is the best place for breakfast and brunch in Saint Helier. They have such a nice menu with a great selection of eggs and various brunch items. It’s a super cool heritage building and a great room to spend a morning or afternoon in.
The Rice Bowl is the best place for Chinese food, celebrating the tradition of the British Chinese takeaway. If you’re visiting and you’ve never had the pleasure of trying “British Chinese” food, this is probably the best version you will ever have. It’s family owned, and the food is great—sweet touches and lots of sauces—with an excellent set menu and cocktails, too. Pro tip: Go before sunset and ask to sit outside—the view facing the beach is beautiful!
While I’ve never been to Faulkner Fisheries, it’s meant to be the best place on the island for fresh seafood. I am saving it for my next trip, but located on the remote northwestern tip of the island, it overlooks the sea and looks great.
Portelet Bay Cafe, on Portelet Beach, is accessible by a little ramble down from the parking lot, which opens up into a completely secluded and raw bay. The beach is lovely, with sand and white rocks, and made even better by having a cafe. They have woodfired pizzas and if you time it right, they may even have Jersey oysters on the menu.
The Central Market in Saint Helier is a great covered market with various shops and restaurant options. I have a soft spot for pasta and baked chicken from Delicado, as well as the Spanish food from Casa Paco.
Awabi is another one of my favorite restaurants. Located in Saint Helier, it’s a super-cool place with amazing food—Asian fusion, incorporating Japanese and Korean with killer cocktails, too. It’s a great room and a very fun place to go for dinner.
Tuk Tuk Thai Food on the Gorey Pier is the best spot for Thai food, and in the summer you can sit right on the pier and eat overlooking the water, which is incredible at sunset.
Entwhistles in Gorey is perfect for your classic “chippy” experience with great fish and chips, battered sausages, and all the fried things your heart would desire.
THE BEST BEACHES
The beaches in Jersey come in all shapes and sizes—from long, vast stretches of land, to more secluded coves and bays. The beaches on the north side of the island are rocky and rougher, whereas the rest around the island are sandy. The sand tends to be whiter on the eastern beaches, while the best surfing beaches are in the west.
As previously mentioned, Archirondel and Portelet have great food options and are ideal for swimming and whiling the day away.
St Brelade’s is one of the island’s largest beaches and is totally caught in time. It feels like you’ve transported to 1980, with pristine gardens lining the promenade, banana boats for rent, and colorful towels. I love this beach—it is really so much fun.
Gorey Beach stretches far along Gorey Bay. It has beautiful white sand, and when the water’s shallow, it can get quite warm. It’s a great beach to lie on and never gets busy. You can also swim around the side of the castle, which is lovely at sunset, and get into deeper water from the rocks around the pier. Pro tip: get a Jersey ice cream from Rhonas!
Plemont Bay is an absolutely gorgeous beach. It’s a steep walk down some steps, but once you’re down there, it’s magical. The beach has a ton of different caves and coves that are amazing to swim in at low tide.
St Ouen’s beach is another one of the bigger beaches in Jersey. A lot of surfers come here, and while it’s not as landscaped as St Brelades, it’s beautiful. The sunsets here are incredible and you feel like you’ve been transported to France.
Beauport Beach is a lovely secluded cove on the southwest corner of the island. The water is incredibly clear and there’s a little island you can swim to, or walk up if the tide isn’t high.
WALKS AND MORE
If you visit in the summer, be sure to book a “seafari” with Jersey Seafaris, who lead various rib boat excursions around the island. When I did it I visited the Ecrehous islands, just 6 miles off Jersey and 8 miles from the coast of France. They’re beautiful and almost completely secluded. Wear your swimsuit and pack a picnic as you’ll have a bit of time to explore the island and swim off the rocks.
The Jersey Zoo—also known as Durrell, established by famed British conservationist and author Gerard Durell in 1959—is a must-visit. It’s truly beautiful, and you can really feel the commitment to conservation and education throughout.
The Jersey Museum is a great stop for its cool permanent collection. For any art history fans, they have a fantastic (and the largest) collection of works by Surrealist artist Claude Cahun, who worked with Marcel Moore and lived on the island during its German occupation.
Sister 2 Sister is my favorite place to shop in Jersey. It’s right in St. Helier and is the best shopping destination for consignment and vintage pieces. I’ve found some amazing pieces here over the years, and the owner Shivy is such a pleasure to talk to. I always make an effort to visit on my trips to the island, often leaving up with a great haul by the end of my stay.
There are various hikes you can do along the North Coast of the island, but my favorite and one of the most beautiful is from Bonne Nuit to Bouley Bay. The walk is wild and raw and steep at times, but has such a beautiful view of the water and you can really grasp the scale of the island.
WHERE TO STAY
While I’ve never stayed at a hotel in Jersey—as I’ve been graciously hosted by my boyfriend’s family every visit—there are a fair few that seem nice for a short stay on the island! Jersey is fairly small, about 46 square miles, and everywhere is easy to reach by car no matter where you are based. But it’s nice to be close to the center of St Helier if you want to be where the action is. If you prefer a more secluded and rustic approach and are there for beaches, island walks, and the odd trip to the pub, you might prefer staying elsewhere on the island—the various Jersey Heritage rentals described below are dotted around the coast and offer a nice variety.
Longueville Manor is the grand dame of hotels here, supposedly the place to stay when visiting. It’s what I’d book if I wasn’t always hosted by friends.
The Jersey Heritage foundation rents a variety of historical buildings around the island, ranging from forts to fisherman’s cottages to towers on the beach. Some appear to be quite basic, but offer an incredible opportunity to stay in a historical space in a great location.
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