Dispatch from Cortina

Our friends, the photographer duo Arthur Groeneveld and Bamboo van Kempen—aka Arturo + Bamboo—have spent the past few years photographing snowy destinations from Zermatt to St. Moritz, always through a refined, nostalgic lens on European leisure: sun-splashed, sociable, quietly glamorous. Lately they’ve turned their eye to Cortina d’Ampezzo (including a feature in the Fall ’24 YOLO Journal!), soon-to-be host of the Winter Games, with images gathered in their new book, Cortina.

They were drawn there long before the Olympic chatter began, nearly a decade ago. “Every time we went, it felt like such a hidden gem—a timeless village with an unmistakably Italianate soul,” Arthur says. “Then when the Games were announced, we thought, okay, the secret’s out. But we wanted to show a different Cortina than the one you see on Eurosport: everyday moments, a place where, from the very first espresso in the morning until their last drink at night, life is lived in the most beautiful way.”

So here’s their take, revealing Cortina as a “living archive, where Olympic heritage coexists with evening passeggiatas, and a distinctly Italian sense of beauty is at the center of it all.”

The “Queen of the Dolomites” offers up a high-altitude serving of la dolce vita. Italy’s most fashionable resort—Sophia Loren, Ernest Hemingway, Audrey Hepburn, Frank Sinatra and Brigitte Bardot all visited during Cortina’s mid-century heyday—it still buzzes with that Slim Aarons kind of energy: skiers lounging at lunch, the striking scenery and regulars socializing over espressos on Hotel de la Poste’s sun-soaked terrace. But what this glamour obscures is a fantastic ski resort with a great history of sport and dreamlike, sunny ski slopes. 

A quintessentially Italian tableau rolls out along its mountain terraces and cobbled village center. Families coming for generations meet each other in Corso Italia, the center of Cortina’s social life. Shops sit side-by-side with art galleries, antiques shops, bookstores and artisans’ workshops—a perfect blend of past, present and future. Aperitivo is a true art here: you can’t miss your daily spritz in the Enoteca or Bar Sport before heading to one of the town’s cozy restaurants.

Soon to be a two-time host of the Winter Olympics, Cortina has some of the best on-piste skiing in the Alps. Skiers of all levels can explore its three ski areas—Tofana-Socrepes, Faloria-Cristallo and Cinque Torri-Lagazuoi—and should not miss the Armentarola piste: the spectacular descent starts on Mt. Lagazuoi and finishes at the Capanna Alpina refuge; at the end, skiers are pulled by horse-drawn carriage to the Sarè bridge to make their way back to Cortina. Afterwards, they can head for a long lunch at Baita Piè Tofana, one of the best on-piste restaurants, with its elegant terrace at the foot of the Tofane.

Many of the resort’s visitors won’t set foot on snow, preferring to take in the mountain scenery from one of its many terraces, relax in the hotel spas and go shopping around town. When night falls, Cortina turns into a magical place: no matter whether you’re doing Michelin-star or a simple pizza, the atmosphere is quintessential Italia.

The Olympics always leave their mark on small towns. You can still see the old ski jump and small stadium from the 1956 Games. Even though these are a mega-production, with several new building and hotel projects and suddenly upscale prices, hopefully when the crowds leave, Cortina will go back to its old rhythms, but with small improvements that last.

CORTINA INTEL

HOTELS

Hotel Ancora – This classic 1826 symbol of faded glamour in the heart of Corso Italia recently re-opened after a bold renovation driven by Renzo Rosso, founder of the fashion group OTB.

Faloria Mountain Spa Resort – Anchored between Mount Faloria and the legendary 1956 Olympic ski trampoline, the hotel blends Alpine style with a Nordic sensibility.

Hotel de Len – A tranquil lodge from the ‘60s that reopened last year after a major upgrade, it’s built from local, hand-hewn timber. The rooftop spa is lovely after a long day spent outdoors.

Grand Hotel Savoia – This Art Nouveau grande dame built in 1912 has hosted everyone from Winston Churchill to Sophia Loren. Recently renovated, it’s still Cortina’s social and cultural epicenter.

DRINKS

Hotel de la Poste – The terrace of this 220-year-old hotel is the place to be: drink coffee in the morning sun, then head to the bar in the early evening.

Bar Sport – This popular and unpretentious locals’ spot has just a few seats, sports memorabilia lining the walls, 5 euro Aperol spritzes, and a cozy terrace for aperitivo hour.

Enoteca Cortina – Built under a church, this perfectly unpretentious bar is part of Cortina’s DNA. The dark, classic interior draws repeat visitors for wine and simple Italian small plates. 

FOOD

Baita Piè Tofana – One of the area’s best on-piste restaurants for a lunchtime pitstop. The tiramisu is unrivaled—you may need an espresso before getting back on your skis!

SanBrite – Chef Riccardo Gaspari’s place is a masterclass in seasonal cooking, with ingredients from the family’s own farm shaping the menu. Meals are traditional and hearty with a stellar wine list, served in a wholesome but chic converted barn with sweeping valley views.

Rosapetra – Stone and wood interiors set the mood: soft infusions of light, the warm glow of candles, and the scent of rich dishes being prepared.

Ristorante de Len – A cosmopolitan all-day hangout in a cozy, wood-paneled hotel serving contemporary dishes inspired by the mountains.

Alajmo – Formerly El Toulà—the setting for a famous Slim Aarons photograph—this mountain chalet restaurant just out of town was refurbished and revived last year, with Italian mountain fare served on vintage Ginori and Limoges

Cortina is self-published and available directly on the website, or via info@arturo-bamboo.com, with a retail price of 50 euros.