The British Virgin Islands by Boat

I was excited for my first trip to the British Virgin Islands (BVIs), as I had grown up on stories of pirates hiding rum and gold in sea caves in the 1700s, followed decades later by Richard Branson’s desert island hideaway, Necker Island, complete with coral-colored flamingos.

Today, the BVIs are best known for a kind of quiet, barefoot luxury and a relaxed yet refined yachting culture. Located just east of the US Virgin Islands, the archipelago—more than 60 islands on cays scattered across the deep blue Caribbean waters—has long been considered one of the most beautiful sailing grounds in the world, with each landfall offering its own distinct personality.

The majority of the territory’s roughly 25,000 residents live on Tortola and Virgin Gorda, while smaller communities dot the surrounding islands. A British Overseas Territory with a strong sense of self-governance, the BVIs balance British heritage with Caribbean ease. That resilience was tested in 2017, when Hurricane Irma ripped through the islands, damaging or destroying 85% of the housing stock and infrastructure. In the years since, the recovery has been steady and thoughtful, with several hotels using the rebuilding period as an opportunity to redesign and improve rather than simply restore.

I was lucky enough to spend a week there, including three nights aboard a brand-new six-cabin sailing yacht with Horizon Yacht Charters. Exploring the archipelago by sea—its most natural vantage point—we passed our days island-hopping, snorkeling, and sipping rum cocktails on deck as the sun slipped below the horizon.

Virgin Gorda

Rosewood Little Dix Bay was one of the first Caribbean resorts to promote sustainable luxury, and the beachside retreat has welcomed guests for over half a century. I admire that the resort has really kept the essence of why it was first established. Initially designed in 1964 by Laurance Rockefeller as an eco-sustainable resort, it was almost destroyed by Irma in 2017. I’d wanted to visit since it reopened in 2020 after a multimillion-dollar, four-year renovation.

Back in 1493, when Christopher Columbus first encountered the island, he noted how it looked like a portly woman in repose, and christened the island Virgin Gorda, or Fat Virgin. To this day, the island remains largely undeveloped, an unspoiled paradise of green hills, secluded coves and beautiful beaches.

The Rosewood’s beautiful beach-facing rooms blend sleek modernism with simple natural materials. From ocean-view cottage rooms to cliffside villas with infinity pools, there is a wealth of choice. I stayed in one of their treehouses and loved my morning rainforest showers shielded by lush green vegetation and accompanied by the soundtrack of tropical birdsong.

My favorite spots around the resort included the organic vegetable garden (tended by Ashley the gardener, who wears a long bird feather tucked in his hat), the spa’s infinity pools, which look across the Sir Frances Drake Channel, and The Great Room, a vast stone building with wooden fans spinning under rafters. Curated around the room is a selection of vintage coral and teak-hued furniture set up around board games, which really captures the mid-century design of the resort.

Laurance Rockefeller and his wife, Mary, were significant patrons of Finnish architect and designer Alvar Aalto, opening a successful store in New York City specifically to sell his furniture and homewares. Sitting on a day bed in the cool of the Great Room, surrounded by monochrome photography from renowned photographer Greg Williams (he was the artist in residence for their recent 60^th anniversary), transported me to a different time. I found an old book containing photos of pre-hurricane Irma Bitter End Yacht Club, the resort that is widely considered the spiritual home of yachting culture in the Caribbean (and where I was finishing my trip), so I was interested to see how different it might look today.

In the evenings their rum room, featuring over 100 different bottles, comes to life. With sunset views and live steel drum music, it’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy a “Tipsy Turtle,” the hotel’s signature drink with rum, pineapple, coconut and strawberry.

Dinner at the beachfront Sugar Mill Restaurant is an elegant experience. The rhythmic sound of the waves made a soothing soundtrack for the ocean-inspired menu and the full moon on the glistening water was breathtaking. I ordered the soft-shell crab and tuna tataki, both of which paired perfectly with a cold glass of Little Dix Bay Grenache rosé, made exclusively for the resort. Unbelievably, chef Andy Gaskin ages wines in an underwater cellar and even dives to the seafloor to retrieve wine.

With the BVIs so geographically dispersed and varied, the best way to explore is by boat. I arrived at the Rosewood via a 20-minute transfer from Beef Island, home to the BVI’s international airport, and for my onward journey boarded Slinky Malinki, a brand-new Horizon Yacht Charters catamaran. The yacht has six contemporary cabins, four of them surprisingly spacious, with double beds, ensuite bathrooms, wardrobes and wraparound windows; an especially lovely vantage point for watching the sun rise over the Caribbean.

On our first morning, we lingered over breakfast at Nanny Cay, joined by a local cat who stepped aboard from the dock. We soon set off under the guidance of skipper Noah, barefoot and carried along by the warm trade winds. Noah was quick to reassure us that mooring closer to shore keeps the water calmer, sparing us stronger swells and a night spent rocking in our cabin beds. On deck, he was constantly scanning the horizon, seemingly familiar with every secret cove and fragment of island lore across the archipelago.

Peter Island

A highlight on our first morning was swimming with sea turtles in Little Harbour, a secluded lush bay known to locals for its local marine life, located along the coast of Peter Island. Home to the Peter Island Resort, the largest private island resort in the British Virgin Islands, it recently underwent a seven-year renovation following Hurricane Irma’s destruction. The resort is not visible from Little Harbour Bay, which is why it is so popular allowing guests to enjoy their seclusion.

The family that owns Peter Island is committed to preserving paradise. For this reason, only 300 of the island’s 1,800 acres have been developed. In addition, a reverse-osmosis water purification plant and the first windmill generators in the BVI were installed to minimize the island’s carbon footprint, along with a grey water irrigation system and extensive recycling program. 

From the yacht, we spotted a derelict cottage perched on the hillside above the beach and asked Noah about it. According to local legend, an elderly woman who once kept goats lived there. Fiercely protective of her solitude, she was said to fire a shotgun through the sails of any boat bold enough to anchor in her slice of paradise. Having visited, I can’t say I blame her.

Using snorkeling equipment rented from a shop in Nanny Quay, we spotted hawksbill turtles, stingrays swooping through the water as well as a psychedelic array of tropical fish. I saw my first electric-colored Blue Tang, which seemed very friendly indeed (unlike the aforementioned goat farmer). 

Norman Island

Norman Island is widely believed to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island and makes an ideal stop for a swim in its crystal-clear waters. When the sun becomes too much, retreat to local favourite Pirates Bight, famed for its conch fritters. Over the course of the week, my fellow travellers and I sampled the dish at no fewer than five restaurants, and Pirates Bight emerged as the clear standout. Their cracked conch, topped with a zesty mango salsa, blew every other version out of the water. 

A visit to Norman Island (where there are no hotels) is not complete without a brief drink aboard the Willy T, an enormous steel ship anchored in The Bight Bay and decorated in swashbuckling cabin-core with lanterns adorning the wooden panelled walls. Named after the 18^th-century British-American architect William Thornton, who is most renowned for his architectural contribution as the first architect of the Capitol building in the United States, I feel he would appreciate the variety of frozen drinks on offer here.  

Cooper Island

A two-hour sail east of Norman Island, I arrive at the private eco-resort, Cooper Island Beach Club, which can only be reached by boat. It’s a beautifully curated property owned by Colin Harris, one of the founders of Harrows Darts, the world’s leading darts manufacturer (and yes, you will find a dart board on the beach). He added a tiny craft brewery to his family’s resort in 2015, with custom-built equipment powered by the ever-present Caribbean sun. The brewery also uses rainwater collected on-site, which is filtered for purity at this self-sufficient resort.

This tiny sustainable brewery overlooks the turquoise waters of Manchioneel Bay. Locals tell me that the snorkelling at Cistern Bay is unmissable, too. The rum bar at the Beach Club is a real beauty; the sort of place you’d expect to see Slim Aarons perched on one of the driftwood high-tops at the bar, sipping a pineapple adorned concoction. After a wonderful meal of jerk chicken gyoza and a “Cooper-fornia” roll—a sesame crusted tuna roll topped with lobster—it was time to head back to the boat for a good night’s sleep.

After a couple of nights, I grew accustomed to the boat’s gentle rocking and began to look forward to the sunrise views each morning. Before my fellow guests awoke, the jet lag working in my favor, I would quietly climb to the upper deck to savor the shifting colors and rare solitude the moment afforded.

Jost Van Dyke

A visit to Jost Van Dyke requires a visit to the Soggy Dollar Bar. The bar earned its name from thirsty guests who had to swim to the island from their boats to reach the bar. Often, their dollars would arrive, well, soggy. Virtually unchanged since the 1970s, Soggy Dollar was the birthplace of the famous Painkiller cocktail, a rum, pineapple, orange and coconut creation known the world over.

Set on the picture-perfect White Bay Beach with powder-white sand and crystal clear warm Caribbean waters, the likes I have only ever encountered in places like Harbour Island or Maroma, it was my favourite beach I visited all week. Just around the point in Great Harbour, you will find another island stalwart, Foxy’s. In 1968, a young man called Philicianno “Foxy” Callwood saw the future of sailing yachts that came to call on the idyllic 4-square mile island. In the shade of a tamarind tree, Foxy set up a bar for the specific purpose of welcoming sailors to his island home. Quick with a song, joke or story, Foxy welcomed visitors to “his island” for over half a century and is known locally for his contributions to heritage and tourism, latterly being awarded an MBE (Member of the British Empire) from H.M. The Queen of England, Elizabeth II. (Foxy sadly passed away in 2023, but his son now runs the restaurant.) We had a magnificent beach barbeque and a royally good time. The bar is buzzing with music and dancing run by an energetic team.

Bitter End Yacht Club x Saba Rock

We sailed through North Sound, past Richard Branson’s Necker Island, its Balinese-inspired architecture rising from a backdrop of swaying palms. Spanning 74 acres, the island is home to an extraordinary range of wildlife, including Madagascan lemurs, giant tortoises, rock lizards and flamingos. Surrounded by turquoise waters, coral reefs and fringed with pristine white-sand beaches, it’s an undeniably impressive sight.

Beyond its beauty, Necker Island is deeply committed to sustainable development, from championing renewable energy and protecting endangered species to supporting education for local children, all while respecting both the natural environment and the local community. On land, guests can do everything from yoga and pickleball to spa treatments and mangrove conservation tours, while on the water activities include kite surfing and e-foiling, making Sir Richard’s private island a true sea lover’s paradise. We made the short sail across from Bitter End Yacht Club to Necker, a fittingly memorable passage.

I was excited to reach the final stop on my adventure, back on Virgin Gorda at the Bitter End Yacht Club. Founded in the 1960s and acquired by Myron and Bernice Hokin in 1973, this location has a legendary reputation as a yachtie hotspot. It began humbly as a Yacht Club, consisting of a small jetty, a few moorings, five rustic hillside guest cottages and a seaside pub. The Hokins were convinced that North Sound was the epicenter for all their passions—sailing, fishing, diving, beachcombing, exploration and just being surrounded by magnificent nature.

Over the years, the family grew a name for their sailing school and nightlife being visited by rockstars and British celebrities. Boats from far and wide would pull up and moor just to enjoy a night or two at the Bitter End.

When I sailed towards the yacht club, a re-envisioned version of the photos I’d seen back at Little Dix Bay earlier in the week, rose from the sea. Wooden balcony fronted chalets and luxurious beach villas dot the stretch of their own beach. Nautical vibes in a Caribbean seaside village with muted linens and rattan invoke timeless island spirit, with thoughtful mood lighting the vaulted ceilings.

I made firm friends with resident bartender, Saturn, who gave me a warm welcome to the Upper Quarterdeck bar, a sanctuary with a fabulously curated bar and a raised terrace with sunset ocean views and walls decked out with vintage photography. I couldn’t have loved it more. Saturn whipped me up a passionfruit mojito. I’m not normally a fruity drink person, but maybe it was the relaxing calypso music and the swaying palm trees which made this drink so good.

Dinner at The Clubhouse with the soft rhythm of waves lapping in the background and a charming restaurant team really made the stay here extra special. Yellowfin tuna tartare with avocado and topped with a crispy wonton was a great introduction to the kitchen at Bitter End. Grilled spiney lobster from the nearby island Anegada, where they have an annual lobster festival, was tender and dripping in Cajun rum butter.

I slept very well in my room surrounded by dark wooden panelling, with the sound of tropical rain rhythmically tapping above me. The smell of petrichor thick in the warm morning air, sitting on my balcony enjoying a coffee while watching the coming and goings of yachts, was truly a highlight of my trip. 

Much of the BVIs remains uninhabited and is protected as national parkland. The Baths National Park, at the southwestern tip of Virgin Gorda, is an absolute must-visit. Reaching it involves a short boat ride from Bitter End to Gun Creek, followed by a brief taxi transfer. From there, a winding sandy path leads downhill through tropical vegetation, past towering cacti, to the sweeping curve of Devil’s Bay, where we paused to cool off with a quick dip in the sea. Continuing along the rocky shoreline, we discovered the Baths’ hidden rock pools and colossal granite boulders, some measuring up to 12 metres in diameter, forming vast cave-like chambers that feel more like natural cathedrals than beaches.

After a lovely morning at The Baths National Park, there was only one place for a waterfront lunch: Saba Rock, set on a one-acre slice of paradise, located just offshore from the Bitter End. It’s the perfect place for day-trippers, though they do have a handful of suites for overnighters and a helipad, if you happen to arrive by chopper. An iconic red London telephone box greets visitors, too. Specialties include their coconut and mango ceviche, and shrimp rolls served in brioche. I washed it all down with a Mai Tai cocktail, because at this point, I had a taste for tiki.

Saba Rock was put on the map by diving pioneer Herbert “Bert” Kilbride, when he founded his diving base there in the 1960s, and they still have some of his finds in a water installation as you enter the restaurant. It was unique being able to dine on this tiny island with sprawling views across the ocean and over to Bitter End Yacht Club.

A week after flying into Beef Island Airport, I had visited seven of the British Virgin Islands in seven days. What stayed with me wasn’t just the scenery—though the beaches, reefs and granite boulders are undeniably spectacular—but the sense of unhurried balance the islands strike. This is a place where unassuming luxury sits comfortably alongside wild, protected landscapes; where yachting culture doesn’t overwhelm the natural rhythms; and where time seems to stretch on endlessly.