Being a New Yorker and student, I am a fan of a quick lunch. Most days, I don’t want to be stuck in a restaurant for hours at lunchtime, and quite honestly I don’t have the luxury nor the budget to be doing so. Unfortunately, living in Paris this year, I have found that quick lunches and eating on the go are two very un-French activities. However, if living in France as a New Yorker has taught me anything, it’s that I’m going to work my hardest to make Paris adapt to me, and not vice versa.
Since arriving in September, I have made it my goal to combine the many lists given to me by friends, family, and of course, the Yolo Paris Black Book, and truly attempt to crack the code of the Parisian food scene. However, this is not the Allard, Chez Georges food scene I’m talking about. This is the student/budget-friendly food scene, which will consist of mostly not French food, because quite honestly, I’m sick of it. I have been posting my findings on my food-dedicated instagram account @clarashangry, where you will find more in-depth and opinionated reviews of some of my favorite places.
Starting off with some of my favorite lunch places. These restaurants truly are what you make them—you can choose to sit and chat for an hour, or you can be in and out in 20 minutes, and even take your food to go! I live in the 10th near the Canal Saint Martin, so most of these are around this area as well.
Pontochoux – One of my favorites and definitely a gem! Located in the Marais close to my favorite store Merci, it’s a tiny restaurant that serves the best Japanese curry. There’s sometimes a line, but it’s never very long and it’s mostly takeaway. Inside, there are just 3 tables for 2 people, so if you eat in it’s definitely a squeeze. Prices are around 13-15 euros for a very hearty lunch.
El Guacamole and Aca Tacos – Located just off and on rue de Lancry, these are two different Mexican restaurants, but they’re so close to each other I’m going to loop them in as one. Besides, if you’re eating at El Guacamole, you’re allowed to use the Aca bathrooms! El Guacamole has a great deal that includes 3 tacos of your choice and a drink for €10! You can also swap the tacos out for a burrito or a quesadilla. ACA tacos do the same for €10 euros, except without a drink. El Guacamole definitely has a quicker eating vibe inside and much faster service. The best thing about ACA is their Taco Tuesday deal: you have a choice between chicken, beef, chorizo, or mushrooms for €1, and while they’re on the small side, they’ll fill you up for under €10 guaranteed.
Oya Nouilles – My first experience with Tibetan food and it’s amazing—right near République in the 10th on rue de Lancry. For under €15 you can get a huge and delicious lunch off of their varied menu. It’s delicious and pretty quick. My favorites are the peanut noodles with fried chicken, or fried rice with fried chicken. The wonton soup and cucumber salad are also highlights, and the homemade jug of iced tea is a must have.
Royal China – On rue Beaubourg, only a stone’s throw from the Centre Pompidou, Royal China really makes me feel at home, as it could be in New York’s Chinatown. It’s great, very cheap and cheerful. Best for sharing, as the portions are generous and the prices are low. Love this place and its no-nonsense attitude as well—they mean business. Pro tip: Get the beef pho soup dumplings, they’re unlike anything I’ve ever had before!
Sen Viet – I stumbled upon this place—quite literally a hole in the wall on rue Saint Martin right by my house—in a bout of extreme hunger. Five euros for a giant banh mi, and it’s so good. The women there are so sweet and they also make a delicious summer roll for €2.50. I’ve seen people sit down and eat noodles and rice of other kinds as I know they have a lunch menu deal, but for me this is a solid takeaway and eat-on-the-street option, to the dismay of Parisians walking by.
Urfa Durum – Located in the 10th on rue de Faubourg-Saint-Denis, I’ve only been here once and have been meaning to go back. For €10 or less you can get an amazing Kurdish wrap and lahmacun either to go, or to sit down and eat quickly in the restaurant. If this isn’t your thing, this street has TONS of other great places with affordable food. Shout out to a very cute bar Chez Jeannette which is very chic and affordable for a quick drink and maybe some bar snacks!
Omusubi Gonbei – Saved the best for last, and honestly this had been one of my most frequented so far this year in Paris. Just off République on rue de Turbigo (they also have a location by Le Jardin du Palais Royal), for €9 they’ll do an onigiri bento with 2 onigiri of your choice, 2 pieces of karaage, and a small piece of Japanese omelet. It’s amazing. They also make delicious miso soup and solid edamame. My favorite onigiri are the shrimp tempura and the spicy chicken.
While these are mostly to-go and quick lunch options, it’s always nice to go for a more sophisticated sit-down dinner once in a while. I’ve added some of my favorites that don’t break the bank!
Gros Bao/Petit Bao – Run under the same ownership, the Bao restaurants are all around Paris, but the menus vary by location. They’re super solid with very cute interiors, not ridiculously expensive and perfect for dinner with friends. Gros Bao is my favorite location, right on the Canal Saint Martin. Great for lunch too, but there might be a line at dinner!
Bouillon République and Bouillon Julien (both in the 10th and just 10 minutes from each other if one line is too long) – These are the only bouillons (a restaurant that serves traditional French cuisine) in Paris I have been to so far and they’re both great—Julien more for the location and the beautiful art nouveau interior, and République more for the food. Be prepared to wait in line unless you book ahead. I’ve also heard great things about Bouillon Chartier right by Grands Boulevards, but have never been. Pro tip: get a liter of the house wine, ranging from €15-20.
Au Rêve (Montmartre) – Little bit more expensive than a boullion, but this restaurant is a gem straight out of An American in Paris. Call to book ahead. It’s sort of a bar/restaurant, so it’s quite loud and stays open till 2am! The staff are so kind (which is rare) and the food is great. Estimate about €30 euros per person, I’d say, but for a nice dinner with their cheapest bottle of wine it’s perfect.
Le Collier de la Reine – Again, this is a bit more of a fancy place with small sharing plates and nicer wine, but it’s nothing crazy. It’s in the Marais with super Brooklyn vibes, which I think is why I like it so much—it’s very cute and they have their own wine cellar! (I think they have orange wine for those who refuse to go anywhere without it…I can’t relate, but always good to know!)
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte – One of my favorite places in Paris, the location I go to is right behind Café de Flore in the 6th. A super classic French brasserie, this place really only has one thing on the menu: steak frites. As you sit down, you are immediately served their house salad with green lettuce, walnuts, and a mustardy dressing. The waitresses clad in old fashioned black and white outfits ask you how you like your steak cooked (I always go for saignant or rare… don’t be afraid—the texture is 100% better this way). The steak arrives quickly, smothered in their secret green sauce and accompanied by a mountain of fries. Once you finish your first plate they come around with a second, and by the time you leave you are stuffed. It’s delicious and classic and a perfect, very French restaurant. This place works for lunch or dinner, but you can’t book ahead, so be prepared to queue. If you go early for the first lunch seating at 12pm, you might not have to wait. The whole meal tends to come in at just under 30 euros and it’s worth every penny for the very generous portions. This place has blown up on the internet recently with locations in London and now New York, but don’t let this stop you from going. It’s not a tourist trap (my French friends love it), simply a classic place that serves one thing and does it very well. Note: not suitable for vegans!
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