Dispatch from Cap Corse

A few years ago during a trip to Sardinia for a friend’s birthday, I wanted to pop over to Corsica for a day or two—it’s just a 1-hour ferry between the islands, separated by the Strait of Bonifacio and an international border (Italy-France). We didn’t make it then. But somehow it hadn’t occurred to me that Corsica could be the main event. Years later, after a grueling New York winter, my partner and I were kicking around ideas for a trip—he wanted towns and culture; I wanted beach—and Corsica came to mind. While the south is a popular vacation spot, we found ourselves drawn to the very north, to Cap Corse, a remote peninsula that juts off the rest of the island like a thumbs-up. Just 40 km long, it’s home to winding mountain roads, wild beaches tucked among massive rocky cliffs, charming towns, and several Maisons d’Américains—neoclassical palazzi built by Corsicans who had made their fortunes in the Caribbean before returning home. There are no swarms of tourists, and both France and Italy feel present—in the air, and especially on the plate.

What we did not anticipate was the adventure. I’ve done my share of mountain driving, along Route 1 in Northern California, the Road to Hana on Maui, the interior of Mallorca, and the Atlas Mountains. This was defintely different. The pristine but narrow roads hug the guardless cliffs high over the Mediterranean, and the curves at times will make your stomach flip. Driving counterclockwise on Route D80 from the main city of Bastia to the northern coastal town of St. Florent will allow you to follow the sun as it strikes the peninsula’s raw beauty, with different terrain at every turn. The scenes from the road will forever be ingrained in my memory. Driving is a must; you won’t find much public transportation, and if mountain driving isn’t your thing, private drivers would be more than happy to take care of you for the week. 

Palazzi are the perfect Corsican accommodation, often run as bed and breakfasts serving food and housemade wines. They tend to be generationally run with pride, boasting ornate design flourishes, painted high ceilings, rooms as big as a modest home, and verandas looking out to the sea. We stayed at Palazzu Nicrosi in the village of Olivo (a 50-minute drive north from the Bastia airport) for seven nights, and opted to drive to and from each destination. Palazzu Nicrosi has a warm blend of traditional and refined modern design—two rooms, three suites, and a large communal dining area for breakfast. The beautiful property is set in the hills, with places to relax poolside or in the gardens. There were never more than two couples occupying the property at a time. It’s a 20-minute drive to the nearest beach, and 10 minutes to the marina town of Macinaggio, where there is a weekend antiques market. 

When we arrived in the evening, we were greeted with a delicious, colorful spread of local cheeses, tomatoes, and cured meats on the terrace and watched the sunset while sipping their homemade bière. It was the perfect way to settle in after a day of travel. We shared stories with the owner and learned about the history of the property in a mix of French and English, and felt immediately at home. 

The following morning, after a lazy start to our first full day enjoying the grounds, we set out for Lotu and Saleccia beaches. Plage du Lotu is only accessible by 4×4 or a short ferry ride from Saint-Florent. From there, it’s a 30-minute walk to the more secluded Plage de Saleccia. The beaches are wild and untouched with emerald waters and only a couple of modest, shady cabanes (A Piniccia di Saleccia and La Cabane du Lodu) serving fresh seafood and apéritifs.

From Saint-Florent, we took the longer drive back north along the breathtaking, rugged west coast to Restaurant U Scogliu in the sleepy village of Canelle, where we sipped Capo Spritzes (a spritz made with Cap Corse, a fortified wine from Corsica) and feasted on fresh grilled whole fish as the sun set on the Golfe de Saint-Florent. It was a quiet Tuesday night, so we lingered at the bar chatting with our lively hosts as they poured us glasses of housemade orange liqueur from a secret stash.

The west coast of the peninsula is the heart of Cap Corse, and we were repeatedly drawn back to its villages, seaside cafés and authentic Corsican restaurants, like Morganti in the town of Albo, where we sat down to a lunch of local seafood and farm fare on their terrasse, which spreads across the village square under a dense, cool canopy of mulberry trees. From there, it’s a five-minute drive to the town of Nonza and its famous beach, which is a half-mile descent down a centuries-old stone staircase built into the mountainside. The dense green mountains meet the black sands which give way to the deepest blue waters. We spent the afternoon reading, napping, swimming, and helping the local kids collect scattered white beach stones and arrange them into abstract beach art. Afterwards, we climbed back up to the lovely town of Nonza, which has a handful of markets and an outdoor cafe, where we were grateful to cool down and watch the afternoon shadows stretch into evening. (Be sure to bring your sneakers if you are interested in some of the nearby hiking trails!)

Heading into the countryside, south of the peninsula brought us to the iconic Church of San Michele de Murato, a striking black and white stone structure perched on a hilltop. The town of Murato feels frozen in time – old men on brasserie terraces with their cigars and digestifs, flowers covering the worn but loved buildings, and without a tourist in sight. 

We were lucky enough to secure reservations at La Ferme de Campo di Monte weeks before our trip, which we booked for our last night in Cap Corse. It was one of the most memorable farm-to-table experiences. The sprawling property overlooks the surrounding hillside down to the sea, primed for a sunset apéritif with the murmur of cows and pigs in the distance mingling with the sounds of the mostly French-speaking guests. 

Our server was friendly and inviting, seating all seven tables at once, and assuring us that we were there to linger and indulge. We started with a Corsican soup that we’ve since tried to recreate often at home, followed by zucchini fritters and outrageously rich house-cured meats sourced from the farm. The main course was tender braised beef served with a delicate lasagna. Dessert was housemade beignets soaked in local grappa, or aquavita as the Corsicans call it. It was like ending the week with a warm hug goodbye. 

We spent the last afternoon at the Palazzu before our flight back. After packing and figuring out how to fly with our purchased bottles of apéritifs, we headed downstairs for our final breakfast and bid farewell. 

This year we plan to head back to Corsica in September, exploring the southern region of Porto Vecchio and maybe catching a quick boat trip to Sardinia while we’re there. It is quite the portal experience: while both Sardinia and Corsica share pristine Mediterranean waters, Cap Corse’s remoteness and precipitous scale give it a unique, almost wild energy that infuses its timeless culture, architecture, and way of life.