Burgundy’s Côte d’Or

When I first arrived in the Côte d’Or, I had just completed my master’s degree in Bordeaux and was making a cross-country drive to Burgundy, where my husband grew up. As we neared our destination, the landscape shifted—flat plains turned into a sea of green vineyards—the hills undulating, like waves of the ocean. I had spent my whole life near the water in Western Canada and I wondered if I could adapt to this new, unfamiliar terrain.

Now, after living here on-and-off for five years, I no longer see waves in the vines but rather the quiet rhythm of their lives. The seasons dictate their transformation—lush and green in summer, golden and red in autumn, barren and frozen in winter, exposing the sacred terroir beneath. Witnessing this cycle resonates deeply with me, mirroring the seasons of our own lives.

That first summer, long before I knew this place would become home, we packed up our little Kangoo van at every opportunity, weaving through the Côte d’Or, Jura and Beaujolais. Days were spent wine tasting, hiking, and wandering through local markets; nights were spent tucked into secluded vineyards, watching the stars. We woke early, before the vineyard workers arrived, our small coffee stove burning quietly in the cool 6am air.

A road trip through Burgundy can be done in many ways. I’ve added lists of my favorite spots and activities, both elevated and accessible.

A DAY IN DIJON: GATEWAY TO THE CÔTE D’OR

Start the trip with a full day in Dijon.

Dijon is a city in reinvention. Positioned between Paris and Lyon, it sits at the northern edge of Burgundy’s vineyards. Though renowned for its mustard, it is a burgeoning culinary hub, drawing up-and-coming chefs and quietly amassing Michelin stars. Its under-the-radar status offers these culinary delights at a fraction of the cost of its more famous neighbors.

Begin the morning with a mini flan or almond croissant from Beurre Noisette (by Fabrice Gillotte), the city’s celebrated chocolatier-turned-baker. Be sure to line up early; the flans sell out fast! Next, wander through the Musée des Beaux-Arts, housed in the former Duke’s palace, before heading to Les Halles, the bustling covered market. Stop for oysters and a glass of wine, or settle in for a classic Burgundian lunch of escargots and jambon persillé at Bouillon Notre Dame.

After strolling through the central brocantes, visit the Cité de la Gastronomie, or take a guided tour of the historic Fallot Mustard Factory. For a cheeky pick-me-up, stop at the aptly named M. Moutarde for an expertly crafted cocktail.

For dinner, head to CIBO, a Michelin-starred restaurant featuring exclusively local ingredients, or opt for a more casual affair at its sister restaurant, Cave, just across the street. With the rapid expansion of Dijon’s culinary scene, a plethora of new options has emerged. Other top picks include Aspérule, Origine, and Maison Cariatides. For something more laid back, try Saison or Parapluie. For something completely different, Foodies serves a delicious Époisse smash burger.

CÔTE DE NUITS

Now it’s time to pack up the car and begin the drive. 

For wine lovers, visiting Burgundy is nothing short of a pilgrimage, with the Côte de Nuits as its Mecca—an experience to be had at least once in a lifetime. Following the D974, La Route des Grands Crus, leads you through a landscape of legendary villages. There are no grand attractions or bustling storefronts here, just row upon row of the world’s most prestigious vines.

As you pass through these fabled lands, be sure to stop the car, step out, and walk among the vineyards. Touch the soil, notice its texture beneath your feet. This is the birthplace of terroir.

One of our favourite ways to experience this landscape with guests at Hautes Côtes is on a walking vineyard tour with renowned geologist, the “Queen of the Côte,” Françoise Vannier, the woman behind Burgundy’s geological vineyard maps. Hiking through these hallowed grounds, she explains the region’s geological history, revealing what makes each climat unique and how this shapes the expression of Pinot Noir. On these tours, it’s possible to discover fossils embedded in the earth—ancient remnants of the sea that once covered Burgundy.

To Stay

La Maison de Jacqueline (Vosne-Romanée)
Hotel Bellevigne (Chambolle Musigny)

To Eat

Rôtisserie du Chambertin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
Le Millésime (Chambolle-Musigny)

To Taste

Domaine Magnien 
Domaine Faiveley
Domaine Henri Gouges

CÔTE DE BEAUNE P1

From the Côte de Nuits, drive south into the Côte de Beaune. After passing the Hill of Corton, get off the D974, and take the winding vineyard roads, leading to Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses. In Pernand-Vergelesses, stop at the hilltop statue for a panoramic picnic—here, you can take in sweeping views of the Grand Cru vineyards, both white and red, that crown the Hill of Corton. In the village, find Le Charlemagne, a one-star Michelin recently taken over by young chef Rudy Villien. Expect delicate courses, local ingredients and a perfect pigeon.

Continuing through the valley, we reach the lively village of Savigny-lès-Beaune. Take time to wander its narrow streets, visit the Château de Savigny, try a craft beer at Harvest Brewing, and enjoy lunch at Le Soleil, a natural wine bar and inspired restaurant that also offers humble accommodation. 

For a tasting appointment, try: Domaine Simon Bize, Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine, or Le Château Corton.

Then we‘ve made it to Beaune! With its cobbled streets, ancient relics and bubbling waterways, the town of Beaune feels like something out of a fairytale. Gourmet cheese mongers, haughty cavistes and terraced cafés give the walled “vieille-ville” all the more charming allure.

Beaune will take a day or two, so plan to overnight here—especially on a Friday or Saturday so you can catch the market. The marché takes place in the centre of Beaune, at Les Halles, just in front of the Hospice. This is truly the weekly town social. You’ll see a mix of famous winemakers, tourists and locals alike. Stands of produce, oysters, Bresse chicken, every cheese imaginable, fresh roast coffee, baked goods, flowers and more. 

At Hautes Côtes, we take guests on guided market tours with a chef to source the finest ingredients from local producers. Afterward, we head to the kitchen for a hands-on cooking class where we prepare classic Burgundian dishes, all paired with local wines.

The Saturday market runs alongside the weekly brocante, where vendors set up in Place Carnot with tables piled high with old books, vintage jewelry, tableware, and other treasures. Go early, take your time, bring cash and make sure to stop for a little drink somewhere after. Crème is perfect for a specialty coffee and The Publican for something with a bit more kick. Take an afternoon tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin and visit their 13th-century cellars. After a walk in the Bouzaize park to stretch your legs, it’s time for drinks and a dinner in town. Here’s a list of our favourite places in and around Beaune.

To Stay

La Maison de Pommard (Pommard)
1896 (Beaune) 
Le Cèdre (Beaune)
Hostellerie de Levernois (Levernois)

To Eat/Drink

Caves Madeleine 
La Dilettante
L’Arche des Vins 
The American Bar
La Table du Square 
Le Relais de Saulx

CÔTE DE BEAUNE P2

Continuing south past Beaune, wind your way through the villages of Pommard, Volnay, and Meursault before ascending into Saint-Romain, a village framed by dramatic limestone cliffs. 

Here with guests, we often meet Mayor Serge Grappin, a passionate archaeologist, for a tour of the village’s ancient ruins and stories of its medieval past. Afterward, stop for a coffee with artist, musician and local roaster Matt McClune at Saint-Romain Coffee before lunch at Bistrot des Falaises.

Descending back down the Côte, the road leads through Saint-Aubin. If you’re traveling in the summer months, a stop at the ephemeral pop-up, Clos du Moulin aux Moines, is a must for lunch. And if you missed the Saturday market in Beaune, the Sunday market in Chagny is just as fantastic. Natural wine writer and author Aaron Ayscough has recently opened La Cave du Centre, offering an ever-changing selection of natural wines, small plates, and guaranteed interesting company, with winemakers and grape farmers frequently stopping by to drop off their latest allocations.

JOURNEY’S END

Continuing on the road south leads to the lesser-known Côte Chalonnaise, the rolling Gamay hills of Beaujolais, or into the culinary heart of Lyon for a final stop on your road trip.

Beneath the vineyards of Burgundy, the earth still holds the memory of the sea—fossils pressed into limestone, reminders of tides long gone. Just as the ocean shaped my past, this ancient seabed has become my present. The rhythm of the vines, like the pull of the tides, mirrors the seasons of life, and in their ebb and flow I have come to call this place home.