I grew up in Abruzzo, in the land of forte e gentile—of strong and kind people, villages and landscapes. On a map it’s on the other side of Rome, that delicate dance of coastline that hugs the Adriatic Sea. I love this region’s understated beauty and its deep contrasts – from the verdant green shades of our mountains and emerald-blue waters to the golden fields of wheat and silvery olive trees that define it.
For as long as I can remember, food has been an essential part of my life. And I’ve been fortunate enough to have the purest appreciation for what’s produced on this land—by getting to know local producers, the cooks, the makers and even the farmers. As a catalyst for exploration, I can’t help but seek to uncover my region’s secret stories day after day. It’s an endless source of inspiration, heightening my curiosity and my love for Abruzzo—which only grows each time I return. A true passion and love, but also a sincere respect. I’m not only forced, but it’s ingrained in me to share and shine a light on this particular cucina with people from all over the world in my special retreats and food-focused get-togethers.
FAVORITE WINERIES
When writing about Abruzzo’s wines, one has to acknowledge the greatness of Emidio Pepe and Valentini. Both are true and proud representations of our region. If you say Trebbiano, only the word Valentini can follow it. Trebbiano has long been a grape variety widely accessible across Europe, often regarded as cheap. However, things changed drastically when Edoardo Valentini and his son Francesco got their hands on those grapes. Their wine couldn’t be more noble, earning the title of best white wine in the world and its makers the lords of the vines. Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is also one of the most emblematic expressions of our region—hearty and yet subtle and elegant. The founder is a true character and proudly Abruzzese. It’s no wonder that some of the best restaurants in the world keep multiple bottles of their wines in the cellar.
A few other makers deserving of mention…
De Fermo – With its vineyards facing the Majella and Gransasso mountains on one side and the Adriatic on the other, these wines are among the newest and most interesting expressions of our territory. The cantina dates to the 1800s and the old palazzo just above it is completely charming. Their concrete Montepulciano is a fruity red favorite, and they often have small batches of orange wine to try and to take home.
Cirelli Wines – Hidden in the outskirts of Atri, an area known for wine production, these makers decided to experiment with terracotta amphoras. Just a few years later they’ve developed a cult following, becoming the most addicting and fun wines to drink—funky, delicious and full of personality. They quickly ended up on the menus of some of the coolest restaurants around the world. Try their Cerasuolo rosato; it’s magical.
Cristiana Tiberio – Her Trebbiano—which flips the typical variety on its head, using a rare and native white grape from 70-year-old vines—is majestic, and the Montepulciano is mouthwatering. A small cantina with a scientific focus, it runs like a well-oiled machine and her wines sing of the countryside and all its bucolic views.
Montetino – From Celano, in the province of L’Aquila, this winery has also lately gained a lot of interest. These oenophiles craft mountain wines, and the vineyards’ altitude make them the highest producers in Abruzzo, at 850 meters above sea level. Biodynamic and full of character, each bottle has many stories to tell.
TO EAT, DRINK AND DO
Don Gennaro wine shop – The oldest enoteca or cava of the region is here in Pescara, stocking the most iconic and precious wines of our territory and the rest of Italy. A charming, family-owned place now run by the second generation, the cava is a must-visit spot for aperitivo. By day it’s a classic wine cellar, but from 6pm onwards you can choose whether to buy a bottle to share or opt for a bicchiere of whichever grape they’ve just hand-picked. There are no tables, chairs or food, so I recommend heading to dinner afterwards. The true and only star of the night is the wine. You’ll find gaggles of locals crowding the place until closing at 10 pm.
Ristorante La Bilancia – It’s situated in Loreto Aprutino, one of the loveliest villages in the Pescara province that’s rich with history, culture and traditional olive oil and wine production. Fans of Valentini wine will know this area well. La Bilancia is a family-run restaurant where menus change daily and warm brothy bowls of pastasciutta (similar to pasta e fagioli) are scraped clean by farmers, wine producers, hunters and barons in disguise. Try the pasta alla mugnaia—a thick pencil-shaped pasta rolled by hand and seasoned with garlic and sweet pepper sauce—which is their specialty and the truest and most authentic version of this famous Abruzzo dish. Wash it down with some cerasuolo Valentini (or locally just called vino sfuso, which translates to “loose wine”), which has a beautiful ruby-pink tint and costs only around €20.
The village of Scanno and its lake – The secret gem of our region—albeit previously revealed by Henri Cartier Bresson—Scanno is known for its charming, winding alleys surrounded by beautiful, peaked mountains in the heart of a National Park. You can still spot women wearing traditional dress—long black blouses delicately adorned with handmade lace, colorful aprons, typical flat headdresses, and some of the most intricate and gilded jewelry. Don’t miss Scanno’s churches, the goldsmith workshop of Di Rienzo, and the most delicious food shops filled with biscotti and local cheeses made by Gregorio Rotolo.
Pasticceria Luigi D’Amico – One of the few places in Pescara that’s been left practically untouched since the era of Gabriele D’Annunzio, a poet of the Decadent movement originally from Abruzzo. A scarlet-red telephone booth marks its entrance before opening into a tucked-away cocktail bar in the corner, which is covered in the most beautiful white tiles all hand-painted with flowers. Their specialty is parrozzo, or “rough bread,” a semolina and almond cake doused in dark chocolate. Soft and spongy yet not too sweet, it pairs perfectly with a thick espresso.
More must-visit tables to book…
Gli Ostinati – Trabocco Mucchiola – go for a modern twist on spaghetti alle vongole
Trattoria San Domenico – facing the Aragonese castle of Ortona, for pasta with tiny crabs
Rito Pane – a new home-style restaurant in Stiffe with the coolest vibe – go for their focaccias and creative spin on vegetables
Il Nonno Pescatore – for the simplest and most indulgent fisherman’s lunch of hearty fish stew, fresh catch of the day and homemade pasta
Mastro and Nole – in Pescara, for reinterpreted Italian Cuisine
And if you’re there long enough…
Pitocchi – for fresh pasta all’uovo still made using old-school machines
Cremeria la Bresciana – for maritozzo (super-stuffed sweet cream buns)
La Chitarra Antica – for fiadone (cheese puffs)
D’Alessandro – for the best treats (biscuits, pastries)
Cicchelli – for charcuterie and rows and rows of cheese
Gelateria Cicco – for the best sorbet (try the mulberry or visciole – sour cherry) in Francavilla
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