In short… the Portrait Milano is the city’s newest splurge hotel in Europe’s oldest 16th century seminary, which sits on the city’s largest piazza.
The vibe… Part of the Ferragamo-owned Lungarno Collection, the former seminary, which had been closed for decades, is now open to all and serves as a thoroughfare between Corso Venezia and Via S. Andrea. The design is very refreshing—it doesn’t read “hotel.” Rather than an expected reception/concierge desk and lobby, there’s a large, light-filled salon/library, where guests are served drinks while they wait to be checked in. Yes, there is a front desk, but it’s discreetly off to the side—so it isn’t the focal point.
The rooms… Tastefully done, beginning with the door handle—which seems like something you’d find in a Gio Ponti-era Milan apartment building—and then the rest of the room echoes that, from the rattan walls to the lamps to the very chic deep red accents (a tribute to the cardinal who founded the seminary) throughout.
Food and drink… While our Milanese friends all love the Beefbar (the first to open in Italy), we neglected to make a reservation in advance, and the timing they were able to offer didn’t work for us. Instead, we had a drink at the bar, which was definitely more of a scene than I’m usually into, but the bartender was a total pro and the martinis were terrific.
The wellness… The new spa wasn’t open yet when we visited.
Parting words… While the four-figure room rate is out of reach for most, there’s something arguably democratic about what the Ferragamos have done here: restoring and returning a piece of the city back to the people, locals and travelers alike. Even if you’re not staying there, try to go for an espresso or a drink, or at the very least take a walk across that piazza!
Date of visit… May 20, 2023
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