Dispatch from Waiheke Island

For those of us with roots in Aotearoa New Zealand, the holidays always bring the great migration of overseas Kiwis returning home for time with family (and on the beach!). I’m half-Australian, half-Kiwi, and last year at this time I spent a few weeks on Waiheke Island, where I am lucky enough to have family living. 

Called simply “Waiheke” by locals, the island is not far from Auckland in the Hauraki Gulf, and is best known for its incredible wineries and restaurants, as well as coastal walks, beaches and lively arts scene. 

The depths of winter in the Northern Hemisphere of course mean summer in Aotearoa (the Māori name for the country, used on its own or together with the English name), making the first few months of the year the perfect time to visit for beach-hopping and outdoor dining. Early in the season, the beautiful native Pōhutukawa trees are in full bloom and the sea is almost at peak summer warmth.

You can make the 40-minute journey by ferry from downtown Auckland, the country’s largest city, to spend the day or a few nights. Waiheke’s main village, Oneora, is full of cafes and galleries and wonderful for walking—make sure to keep an eye out for the Kororā (little penguins) that live on the coast and can be spotted on many of the beaches.

You can’t visit Waiheke without a trip to at least one of its wineries; the island’s microclimate is ideal for a variety of grapes, from red blends to the classic whites—Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc—found elsewhere in the country. On weekends, locals and visitors pack the ferries from the city headed for lunch bookings.

Last summer I had a long, lazy lunch at Mudbrick Vineyard, perhaps the island’s best-known spot. And for good reason, with views of Auckland city, lovely kitchen gardens and dining terraces. The best seats are outdoors in the Bistro, where the menu offers easy-to-share seasonal dishes—the oysters and local cheeses are always a standout.

A more recent discovery for me is Batch Winery, which sits on one of the highest points on the island, with views to match. Their family-style menu is perfect for a group and a great opportunity to try some local produce. Be sure to try the smoked kahawai (fish) pâté.

If you have any room left for dinner, The Oyster Inn is another classic spot; the beach-front bistro is centrally located in Oneroa, the perfect place to take in the sea views. The steak and frites are excellent, as are, of course, the local oysters. Rooms are also available, and it remains on my wish-list to stay here one day, for the ideal location and island-cottage vibes. 

For me, most mornings on the island follow a similar schedule, one easily replicated on a day or weekend trip. The Island Grocer is always my first stop for a great coffee and any picnic-related purchases—I highly recommend the breakfast bap sandwich. A short coastal walk leads to Little Oneroa, the smaller of the two main beaches—perfect for an easy swim, some yacht-spotting, and a picnic with anything you picked up earlier. Back in Oneroa, Island Gelato Co. is an essential stop for a sweet treat, with both traditional gelato flavours and more interesting varieties—if you’re feeling brave, try the feijoa, a popular summer fruit similar to pineapple in taste, with a gritty texture. It’s an acquired taste! 

For longer visits, Te Ara Hura is an extensive network of walking tracks around the island. A loop from the main village heads to Owhanake Bay, passing through vineyards and along the coast, as well as penguin habitats.

There are no big resorts or chain hotels on the island, which is a huge part of its charm. Most accommodations are apartments or holiday rentals, but a few small hotels offer rooms; along with The Oyster Inn, Mudbrick has on-site cottages, as does Cable Bay. The Boatshed is another hotel on my wish-list, for an authentic beach-holiday stay. 

Getting there… Hop on a Fullers ferry from Auckland’s Downtown Ferry Terminal; the journey takes around 40 minutes. Sit on the upstairs deck for views of the Hauraki Gulf and, occasionally, dolphins or orcas. Alternatively, Island Direct is a new, locally owned and run ferry service offering reserved time slots and fantastic coffee on-board.