The Sydney List

In 2011, I found myself in Sydney after living in the Middle East for 5 years. It was time to come home to Australia, but I’d outgrown the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, where I’d spent my childhood and lived previously. I needed a bigger playground and endless beaches, so Sydney was it! At this point, I’ve lived all over Sydney, from The Rocks to Potts Point, Darlinghurst and Bondi, but Bronte is now home. It has the perfect coastal small-town feel, and is close enough to the airport, as I’m often traveling on photo assignments or taking a leisurely trip somewhere.

When I’m home, I often imagine myself as a visitor in my own city—someone with fresh eyes, but a wealth of local knowledge. I try to approach it with the same curiosity I’d bring to exploring a new place, letting wonder and my senses guide me.  This practice isn’t just about finding beauty; it’s about embracing the art of leisure in everyday life, which is the basis of  The Pleasure of Leisure. It’s less about specific destinations or places to be at, and more about carving out opportunities to slow down, notice the small magic moments, and allow for sparks of creativity and daydreams.  This philosophy also shapes my photography practice, shooting analog—really being in the moment,  observing, and taking my time with each frame.

Getting to Sydney can be quite a commitment if you’re not in the country already. From London it’s about 23 hours, Los Angeles 14 hours, Tokyo 10 hours. You’ll be teased with the sight of Bondi Beach and glittering Sydney Opera House from 14,000ft before softly landing on the runway. It’s far-flung, but worth the jet lag when you know an ocean swim is waiting for you on the other end. (Always fly west if you can, the body’s circadian rhythms adjust better to jet lag when you go west!)

Sydney is all about the water, with its glittering harbour and endless coastlines with plenty of interesting pockets in between. The first thing you want to do when arriving is find yourself in the salty water. Is there anything better than ocean therapy? Especially after a long flight… It’s the best way to wash away the jet lag and start the day afresh, either in one of Sydney’s ocean pools or jumping off the rocks into the clear waters with goggles to spot colourful fish.

(You’ll find Sydney featured in The Pleasure of Leisure book, as well as in my limited-edition prints.)

SWIM

Ocean

North Bondi Beach – The iconic Bondi Beach—swim in the north for calmer waves and lifeguards to help, swim between the flags to be safe.

Ben Buckler – This spot gives you the sense you have been transported to a little Italian fishing town, where everyone is basking on a rock or between the boats. You can dive into the water from there if you’re a confident swimmer (as it’s unpatrolled).

Icebergs – A $9 entry and worth it! Even though it’s constantly photographed and featured on travel guides, it’s definitely worth going for a swim, sauna and to lay on the white painted steps.

McKenzies Beach – This little stretch of sand only appears in the summertime, something to do with tides (I think?!). Loved by locals with dogs, it’s unpatrolled, so be mindful of the currents.

Bronte Baths and the rock pool – This is my favourite, as Bronte is home. I like to wait until 8am when the regular oldies arrive for their morning laps, and after the 9-5ers have finished their power laps and the pool clears out into a much more leisurely scene. As you walk along the pool’s edge, there are stairs that take you down to the ocean. This is the magic spot to swim—protected from the bigger waves, and yet you’re swimming in the ocean.

Clovelly – This strip of ocean is protected and you can safely snorkel and swim here. If you have goggles, look for the big grouper and lots of other fish swimming underneath you. It’s actually amazing what’s beneath. 

Gordon’s Bay – Found just after Clovelly, if you’re walking in the direction of Coogee. Spot the boat ramp and wander down from there to spend the day basking on the rocks, but come equipped with water and snacks if you’re staying all day. On the far left entrance closer to the car park, this is a good spot for divers; you can see all sorts of sea life on a clear day.

McIver’s – A hidden secret for ladies only. An ocean pool carved into the cliff edge where women can swim free without a male gaze. Discreetly hidden in the rocky coastline between south Coogee and Wylie’s pools. This is also a $6 entry.

Wylie’s – I think it’s about $6 for entry to use the ocean pool and deck, and you can also get a massage onsite. I like to start with an espresso and read the paper before heading down for a swim and drying off on the concrete space below. 

Mahon Pool – This one is past Coogee, in Maroubra. It can be a little rougher, but great to mix up ocean pools!

Fairy Bower Pool (free) – Over Manly way, I call this area “Club Med.” Fairy Bower is an ocean pool and all around it are rocks you can dive off into the ocean. Bring snorkels to see the sealife or swim over to Shelly Beach.

Harbour

Murray Rose Pool (aka Redleaf Pool) – Curved wooden jetty forms the pools with two pontoons in the middle. A little kiosk for snacks and drinks. It’s so nice to spend a late afternoon here and watch as the sky turns to pastels. Bring a bottle of pet nat and picnic snacks.

Kutti Beach – This little harbourside beach looks like you’ve stumbled upon someone’s private beach, but it’s open to the public and a favourite with pup owners. 

Camp Cove – Just past Watson’s Bay. It’s protected by nets ( there are bull sharks in the harbour and it might not be a great idea to swim in open harbour waters, hence the pools).

McCallum Seawater Pool – A smaller saltwater pool over the bridge with stunning views of the harbour bridge and Sydney Opera House.

While it’s quite easy to get around with public transport, Uber, Lime bikes, ferry or car rentals, it’s nice to choose a neighbourhood you want to explore on foot and stay in it for a few days. Being able to walk to the beach, rather than get into a car or on public transport, really makes a world of difference.

SLEEP

Most tourists tend to stay in and explore the Rocks, CBD, Bondi Beach, Watsons Bay and Manly, which are great places, but knowing where to go is key. I gravitate towards neighbourhoods you can explore on foot. Close to the city, you’ll find Potts Point, Darlinghurst, Surry Hills and Redfern. These have great restaurants and bars, often specialty stores and coffee. Newtown, Carriageworks, and Marrickville are much more down to earth and a little grungier, there’s a little more personality in the inner west. Coastal neighbourhoods: Bondi being the busiest, then Coogee and Maroubra and the smaller neighbourhoods like Bronte, Tamarama and Clovelly in between. Watson’s Bay, Rose Bay, Vaucluse and Elizabeth Bay are all along the harbour and are more residential. Over the bridge, you have Manly, Lavender Bay, Cremorne. There are so many more neighbourhoods to explore, but we’ll be here all day!

Although Sydney is home, it’s always fun to experience hotels in your city. Here are some of my favourites: 

Paramount House Hotel – This is the hotel I most recommend to visiting friends. It’s a cosy neighbourhood hotel that has everything you need under one roof—a fitness studio plus coffee and pastries on the rooftop, breakfast at the lobby, an amazing dinner spot called Poly, a cinema on the lower floor (it used to be the old headquarters for Paramount Pictures) and room service if you need. It’s close enough to the city, art galleries and Surry Hills and Darlinghurst, where you can find plenty of wine bars and restaurants. It’s your home away from home, it’s perfect for all ages, solo, with friends or as a couple.

ACE Hotel – Surry Hills, bordering ChinaTown, has big windows and comfortable beds. I rather like their lobby bar and sunken lounge. It’s something that Australian hotels often forget about – the lobby experience. ACE nails it, and it’s a place you want to enjoy day and night.

Capella Sydney – Sydney CBD/Harbour – Friends recently stayed and they loved the experience. [Note from YOLO: see our review here!] Their staff were super helpful when I organised a birthday surprise for my friend when I couldn’t be there. If the budget allows you to stay here, definitely try it for a night. 

Three Rooms – Potts Point – Is there anything better than being able to duck around the corner to Fratelli Paradiso and have a wine, a pasta and a spoonful of tiramisu and be “home” in a matter of minutes? Three Rooms offer the best solution for Potts Point, three gorgeously styled apartments by Australian interior brands like MCM House in the Paris end of Potts Point.

Little National, Sydney CBD – this is great if you’re most of your time outside of the hotel room, perfect city stay or if you are solo.

Oxford House, Paddington – I haven’t stayed yet, but location and design-wise this feels like a great option. Friends have stayed and have recommended it. It’s really close to shops, art galleries and there are plenty of wine bars and restaurants in the area, like 10 William. This would be a good place to stay if you are solo or with a friend/partner.

Four Seasons – I used to stay here years ago, a classic hotel vibe with great views of the harbour, closer to The Rocks and MCA.

If you’re staying longer, I’d recommend booking an Airbnb in your favourite neighbourhood.

EAT + DRINK

Coffee

I’m going to start with coffee, breakfast and lunch and then move onto dinner and drinks—there’s a lot to cover.

Morning rituals, whether it’s coffee, matcha or a fresh juice. Here are my favourites across the city:

Camp Cove Kiosk – Camp Cove (Watsons Bay), get a coffee or a fresh orange juice before or after your morning swim.

Gertrude and Alice – Great spot for a pot of chai and to get lost between the bookshelves. They often have author book signings—it’s one of those friendly neighbourhood bookshop cafes that you never want to change.

The Crabbe Hole at Icebergs – Even if you’re not swimming, this is such a nice way to start your day. Order a juice or coffee overlooking the sparkling glittering ocean. Coming here in the morning, you realise why Sydney is so special and you’ll wonder if anyone in Bondi actually has a job!

Skittle Lane – Just off the main street of Bondi, get excellent specialty coffee for takeaway or on makeshift chairs outside.

My Flower Man – A flower shop with a barista—get takeaway coffee in Tamarama and wander down to the beach or the coastal walk from there.

Primary Coffee – In the neighbourhood of Potts Point, I like to sit outside and order an iced latte or long black and pastry.

A.P. Bakery – Atop the Paramount House on a Palm Springs-inspired rooftop, savour an array of drinks including coffee and freshly baked pastries and bites in Surry Hills.

Neighbourhood Speciality Coffee – Surry Hills speciality coffee go to for the coffee connoisseur, everything from cold drip to filter, anything you can dream of.

Fiore – On the other side of the bridge in Lavender Bay, this little bakery shop is always busy making fresh coffees with warm out-of-the-oven pastries or fresh deli sandwiches.

Bakery 

Iggy’s – An institution. You can’t walk past their freshly made bread—the healthy loaf or classic sourdough are an easy go-to, as are pastries over the weekend. The first round of pastries are always the best; get there at 8am and enjoy a cup of the filtered coffee as well.

Fiore – Over the bridge, you’ll find freshly baked sourdough and pastries (the owner used to work as a baker at Iggy’s, so you know it’s good), along with coffee. Their deli sandwiches are excellent if you need something more substantial.

Breakfast/Brunch 

Bills – A perfect brunch spot always, whether you’re solo with your laptop, or catching up with friends. There’s a few around Sydney—Darlinghurst and Surry Hills, but Bondi Beach is my favourite, with a comfortable sofa bench to sink into and the walls filled with art. The ricotta pancakes are not to be missed!

Lunch

North Bondi Fish has a new chef, David, who previously ran his own restaurant, Moxhe, in Bronte, which sadly has now closed. His attention to detail, knowledge of seafood and French pastries are incredible; it’s so good to see him back in the kitchen creating for NBF right on the water’s edge. Great sunset spot with an afternoon DJ in the summer.

Lox Stock – A casual cafe in the back streets of Bondi Beach—love the chicken noodle soup and the seared tuna sandwich on ciabatta. They also make excellent breakfasts, coffee and cakes.

The Shop and Wine Bar – A hole-in-the-wall local cafe and wine bar run by the lovely Lucy and Mike. I love to come here for lunch or dinner; the salads are always a stand-out (my go-to’s are the meatball or miso carrot), or get a BLT for when you’re feeling a little hungover. Happy hour wines from 4pm. Best to book!

The Fish Shop – In the backstreets of Bondi, I like to come here for all things seafood. The fish burger is great, but all other dishes are also really good.

Room Ten – Casual sandwiches and salads in Potts Point—the chicken salad is delicious.

Fratelli Paradiso – For lunch or dinner, an Italian institution in Potts Point that has stood the test of time. Scampi pasta never disappoints, and if you’re too full but just want a sweet finish, ask for a spoonful of tiramisu each.

I Maccheroni – Italian without the pretentious crowd on the edge of Woollahara and Paddington; sit outside under the awning for a more casual feel.

Gaku Robata – Either arrive 15 minutes before 12, or around 1:20pm to get a very good bowl of Ramen in Darlinghurst. It’s only open Saturday and Sunday from 12-2pm for ramen and it’s always full.

Chaco Ramen – A cosy ramen spot either in Surry Hills or in Bondi. Expect to queue up for a little while.

Palace Chinese Restaurant – For yum cha in the city, it’s almost like you’re in Hong Kong…almost.

Happy Chef Noodle Restaurant – Wonton noodle soup—an insidery spot in Chinatown where chefs like to eat.

Fish Butchery – In Waterloo, they make the best fish burger.

Bars 

10 William Street – If you can sit in the window seat on the lower floor, that’s the best spot. (It’s the sister restaurant to Fratelli Paradiso, but in Paddington) Their pretzel and whipped butter should never be skipped.

Dear Saint Eloise – An endless list of wines. Sit on the benches outside and people-watch. If there are no seats outside, see if you can get one at the window. It’s borderline Kings Cross and Potts Point, definitely more of a Potts Point vibe.

Bar Copains – A wonderful neighbourhood (Surry Hills) bistro and wine bar, it conveniently opens from 4pm, making it a great spot for a leisurely afternoon drink with lots of delicious bites to choose from to take you into the night. Sitting outside is always nice.

Attenzione – Newly opened Redfern wine bar (and restaurant). I’ve been wanting to try (but I’ve been away), it’s by the same guys as Ragazzi, Fabricca and Yellow, so you know it’s good!

Cantina OK! – Mexican bar in the city, doing excellent margaritas in a casual way.

Dinner

Sean’s Panaroma – A favourite! It’s been going strong for 30 years, which says it all. Farm to table, consistently delicious and generous portions. Simple menu on the chalkboard; all you need to do is choose an entree, main and dessert and something delicious to drink––then enjoy the art-adorned walls, kitsch shell decor, eclectic wooden chairs and ocean views of Bondi Beach. This is the perfect place for date night, long Sunday lunch with friends or to spend a birthday, the more people the better so you can try more dishes!

Osteria Riva – Unassuming spot in Bondi Junction where the food is great. This is where all the hospitality staff and chefs go to enjoy an Italian meal. Truffle season brings freshly shaved truffles on spaghetti carbonara, plus daily specials on the board.

WA – Casual but great sashimi and sushi in Bondi Junction; the chef has an obsession with bicycles, which hang on the wall, don’t let it fool you.

Chester White Cured Diner – Not only cured meats and delicious drinks, but cacio e pepe from the wheel of parmesan. Stu and his team are always there to help in the tiny terrace house restaurant in Potts Point; best to book to guarantee a spot.

Lankan Filling Station – I’ve always ordered takeaway, but you can eat in—there are some small seats inside and out in Darlinghurst. The food is really good: think Sri Lankan curries, roti, fish etc. Perfect to pair with a nice bottle of wine at home.

Nom Japanese – A hole-in-the-wall Japanese diner on the border of Darlinghurst and Surry Hills. I’d go for the omelette and other cooked dishes. It’s very casual with usually 2-3 Japanese ladies in the kitchen—you feel like you’re in Tokyo!

Bistecca – Italian cocktail bar and restaurant in the city, where you have to surrender your phone as you enter. Obviously order a steak here.

Neptunes Grotto – This just opened while I’ve been away and is run by the same guys as Pelegrino 2000, so this city spot would be worth a try.

Poly – Modern Australian. Eat at the bar or order as room service if you are staying at the Paramount House Hotel. 

Pellegrino 2000 –  Bougie Italian trattoria with excellent decor—think Pirelli calendar posters and beaded curtains. Have the banana cream dessert to finish. Bookings are a must.

Club Fontana – Club Fontana is an Italian restaurant in Redfern; always has a great vibe for a date or with friends. Pastas, snacks, a good wine list and decent martini.

ANTE – Vinyl and sake and no reservations needed; just sit at the bar and enjoy Japanese bar snacks in Newtown.

Cairo Takeaway – Casual Egyptian fare in Newtown and you can BYO a bottle of something nice from P&V Wine Merchants just up the road. If dessert is a separate stomach, get Turkish ice cream at Hakiki afterwards.

Continental Deli Bar Bistro – Two-storey bar and deli. I’d aim to sit at the bar and watch what everyone orders and have access to the barman for more drinks, or sit outside and people watch. Great Mar-Tinny – a martini served in a tin. An enjoyable neighbourhood bar and bistro with lots of delicious snacks to spend the afternoon in Newtown. 

Ester – I still think about the cauliflower and the bone marrow on toast I had 10 years ago. I’m sure the menu has changed since then. It’s definitely worth going still.

Food shopping

Iggy’s – Croissants and bread. I love the healthy loaf when they do it, or just their classic sourdough in Bronte.

Penny’s cheese shop – Stock up on excellent international and local cheese, or get yourself a cheese toastie in Potts Point.

Teta’s Deli – Lebanese deli in Potts Point, where you can get snacks as well, like a good falafel wrap.

WELLNESS

FENN – In Paddington for lovely facials and treatments. I love that they also stock LESSE products here.

Body Mind Life – Bondi Beach, Surry Hills, yoga and pilates reformer classes. I often get the holiday pass for a week at a time as I’m traveling a lot.

Capybara – A public bathing house in Surry Hills, it has everything from a magnesium bath and saunas to cold plunge and a lounge.

Nimbus Co – I love popping in for an infrared sauna—it’s so nice to catch up with a friend while schvitzing. Everything feels really clean and modern. Bondi is the one I usually go to, and you can find them in Manly and around Australia.

WALK

Bondi Beach promenade – This one is always busy, unless there’s an apocalyptic storm. Morning or sunset is extra nice. I love ending the walk at either the south or north end, or breaking it up under a shady umbrella at Glory Days at the Pavilion.

Hermitage Foreshore Walk – There’s many places to start this walk—it stretches from Rose Bay to Shark Beach, which has just reopened again. I like to start at Strickland House and go right onto Milk beach, then follow the boardwalk along the sparkling harbour through the gum trees. It’s actually a really great spot to watch the sunset over the harbour.

Bondi to Bronte – A classic, and it never gets old. Nice to do it the other way around too, as you take in different perspectives. Take your swimmers and towel to stop for a dip or a coffee along the way.

Bronte to Coogee – You can continue all the way along the coast, but it will be a big day, so break it up into two trips. Stop at Gordons Bay along the way.

Hyde Park – On a hot day, the old fig trees in the park make a cooling canopy to walk under.

Centennial Park – Discover acres of parklands by foot or bike—there are rose gardens, ponds and a cafe for refreshments. In the summer, there’s an open-air cinema in the middle of the park.

SHOPPING

Lucy Folk – One-stop shop for unique, food inspired jewellery, clothing and sunglasses. I have several of her gold plated cuffs and printed sarongs. Visit her stores on William Street in Paddington or Gould Street in Bondi Beach.

Grandiflora – The only place to buy flowers when you want to impress; their shop is in Potts Point.

Marni store in Double Bay

Lee Mathews – Australian designer, where you can find the perfect dress.

Charlton – Considered menswear on Williams Street, Paddington. While there, I love to walk up and down both sides of the street and admire the houses and in-bloom jacaranda trees in season. There’s also a deli at the end of the street for great sandwiches and baked goods.

Tamsin Johnson – Antiques in Paddington by the interior designer; she also designed Lucy Folks Bondi and Paddington stores.

Ariel Books – Find everything from HOLIDAY Magazine, Apartamento, Gentlewoman, coffee-table books, fiction, art and design books to pick up…or just soak in new titles.

Alex and Trahanas – Ceramics from Puglia in Paddington.

Dust – Antiques store in Darlinghurst—so much is crammed in there, you need a magnifying glass to be able to see it all, but when you find something it really feels like an accomplishment.

Maison Balzac – Playful glassware by French designer Eloise Pioch in Surry Hills. 

Composition – This has just relocated from Avalon to Surry Hills. Claire makes multiple trips to Europe and Africa to source vintage and unique furniture and decor, she also stocks The Pleasure of Leisure.

BTWNLNS – Bookstore with international titles, in a minimal space on the edge of Surry Hills and Redfern.

Mitchell Road Antique and Design Centre – An antiques warehouse where you can get lost for hours! Perfect for a rainy day.

SEE & DO

Ferry – Getting a ferry to or from the city never gets old, even if you’ve lived there for 13 years. You can jump into many of the harbourside neighbourhoods and see Sydney from another perspective. It’s all about being on the water!

Dreamtime Southern X – First Nations tours around the harbour, a wonderful way to learn more about the history of First Nations peoples and the importance of the harbour.

Ritz Cinemas – Heritage-listed Art Deco cinema in Randwick showing mainstream and arthouse films. Choose the seats upstairs on the balcony. $12 dollar cinema tickets on Tuesdays.

Golden Age Cinema – Old flicks and new blockbuster films, an intimate and preserved cinema from the mid century, which only seats 56. Take a glass of red or a messina choc top ice-cream from the bar to your seat.

Sydney Opera House – A must to visit not only to view from the outside, but also savour the inside, whether it’s a drink at Bennelong, attending the ballet or a concert, or taking the architecture tour on Saturdays.

White Rabbit Gallery – Gallery in Chippendale featuring Chinese art, and a great place to discover new artists from this region.

Art Gallery of NSW (AGNSW) – The state gallery close to the city, with many levels to explore. I always gravitate to the classical wing to the right as you enter—the architecture and paintings transport me to Europe. Also the Indigenous art on the left of the counter. Before leaving, I like to take a turn in the gallery shop. On Wednesday nights, the gallery is open for an after-hours event, often with drinks and talks. It’s a social way to see the gallery during the week.

Sydney Botanical Gardens – One of the most beautiful botanical gardens—it hugs the harbour, it’s so nice to wander through, exploring the variety of plants and sometimes wildlife, though watch your step for lizards! If you’re heading to the city from the AGNSW, you can walk through the botanical gardens, ending at the Sydney Opera House.

Sydney Modern – The newest addition to the art scene, just next door to the Art Gallery of NSW, where you can explore multi-levels of art and architecture. A completely different vibe compared to the original gallery next door, with more modern pieces and experiences.

MCA gallery – In the Sydney harbour opposite the Sydney Opera House, filled with contemporary art, a great gift shop and rooftop cafe for a nice view of the harbour.

Sarah Cottier Gallery – A contemporary art gallery in Paddington.

Olsen Gallery – Contemporary art gallery in Woollahra founded by Tim Olsen.

China Heights Gallery – Look out for fun openings and exhibitions in Surry Hills. You can also see a rotation of their art at Paramount House Hotel.

Living Museums – Well-preserved houses and historic architecture; my favourites include Vaucluse House, Elizabeth Bay House and Rose Seidler House.

Tennis – Easy to book online. Try Cooper Park Tennis Courts surrounded by bushlands (if you walk up towards Bellevue Hill there’s a waterfall and small rainforest walk, you feel like you’re in the middle of a National Park), or Trumper Park Tennis Centre—glimpses of the city from this tennis court.

Farmers Markets – On Saturdays, I love to spend the morning at the farmer’s markets. Personally I prefer the smaller neighbourhood markets, like Potts Point, or Bondi Beach, held at the public school. I’m looking for dark leafy greens, free-range organic eggs, ripe avocados, and herbs to make something delicious over the weekend, always grabbing a bunch of flowers before I go. 

When the Chai Tent is there, I sit with a cup of it on the grass and catch up with friends who I’ve run into there, or listen to the local musician. There are also bigger ones—like CarriageWorks—that bring in bigger crowds.

There’s so much more to share from this beautiful city and I can’t wait to see your travels and how you spend your leisure time here—feel free to reach out. We’ll be doing an extensive travel guide to download (yes, there’s more) for Sydney on The Pleasure of Leisure, which also includes local interviews, daily itineraries and where to go next, like Blue Mountains and Noosa. 

Australia is filled with so much beauty, and is the perfect place for leisure.