In short… Atelier Inès Arts & Suites is both a family home and working artist studio. The second-generation family artist Vincenzo Oste still works here daily, while the property has turned into a quiet, elegant modernist inn, which is an inspired oasis within the historic, picturesque Vergini district of Naples.
The surroundings… Atelier Inès, a private, open-air museum-hotel-garden, is tucked behind wrought-iron gates just steps from a bustling neighborhood in the heart of ancient Naples where fruit stalls, butchers, fishmongers and market stands line the streets. The location was an open-space cinema and theater from 1900-1930, and the current building was constructed by the owner’s forebears in 1947. Climbing vines crawl over the old stone walls above, and colorful lines of laundry wave in the distant breeze around the labyrinth of neighboring balconies.
The vibe… Picture a funky, artistic Naples version of the mansion from the Italian film, I Am Love, yet where a working artist studio is central to its modern aesthetic. You feel like you’re staying at your coolest friend’s private home. Indeed, the kind and warm proprietors Inès and Vincenzo make you feel that way.
The rooms… The unique artistic vision of Tunisian-born artist Inès and her husband, Vincenzo Oste (who works by day in the on-site studio), infuses every design detail, which is also enhanced with mirrors, art and furniture conceived by legendary artist Annibale Oste (Vincenzo’s father). Each room is a unique artistic concept held together by the singular vision of its owners. With an exacting eye for detail, beds, bathrooms, and elements such as color-blocked modernist upholstered chaises, coffee tables and lamps cast in the artist’s intriguing designs, along with vintage collections of mirrors and wood dressers, add to the charm.
The wellness… Good vibes from the proprietors create an overwhelming feeling of social belonging and relaxation within the context of a bustling international city. Being surrounded by art and in the presence of a working artist inspires the soul.
The food & drink… The only meal offered is a simple but yummy breakfast set amidst large innovative sculpture installments, art books stacked up on every surface. Artisanal canned cocktails are available for patio-side evening aperitivos.
Lombardy 1892 is a small local trattoria a few minutes’ walk from the inn. It has as good a pizza as one could hope for in Naples, along with vegetables, meats and impeccably fresh seafood dishes, especially the specialty, zuppa di cozze, a giant pot full of multiple varieties of shellfish in exquisite broth over croutons.
Be sure to… Visit the neighbors—they recently opened a site of incredible Hellenic and Roman ruins dated from 2 BCE, called Fondazione Ipogeo dei Cristallini. Discovered in the 1800s by the property-owner baron while digging under his mansion for water, he uncovered an ancient street, crypt, murals and antiquities. The site was privately guarded by the family until—in partnership with the Italian ministry—they recently opened it for limited public tourism. Both Duomo Di Napoli and Museo Archeologico Nazionale de Napoli are a mere 10–20-minute walk away.
Parting words… This is now my go-to “home away from home” in Naples. I can’t wait to return.
Dates of stay… July 7-9, 2024
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