Mas Palou, Catalonia

In short… A family-owned and operated masseria just an hour outside Barcelona that feels like you’ve stumbled on a secret.

The backstory… In the picturesque wine country of Penedès, life feels slower, more wholesome, and a lot more beautiful. Amidst the ripe green sea of vineyards, you’ll find Mas Palou—a family-owned winery and casita dating back to 1623. Over 20 generations, the Vallès family have lived and worked this land, famous for its local varieties of white wine and cava, and their sense of home is palpable from the moment you arrive. 

The surroundings… Nearby, you’ll find incredible little hamlets, towns and wineries. Just a short drive away is Vilafranca, known for its unique tradition of human towers, and the stunning sandy beaches of Sitges (a personal favorite of mine). That said, once you settle in at Mas Palou, it’s hard to find an excuse to leave. 

The vibe… As with traditional masserias in the area, each generation has added to the homestead, and over the centuries, expanded it into a complex that blends seamlessly with its surroundings. The space feels vast without being exclusive, luxurious without being excessive, and familial without making you feel like you’re intruding on a private space. 

With whitewashed walls, exposed wooden beams stretched across tall ceilings, and deep blue pools, the design exudes old-world Spanish charm. The property has its own tiny chapel, with stone walls covered in creeping vines that catch the afternoon sunlight in an almost holy way. Anna, one of the three generations currently living and working at Mas Palou, shared a tale of pilgrims on a camino who sought refuge in the chapel hundreds of years ago, with permission of her ancestors. When they awoke in the morning, the pilgrims had left and had beautifully painted their bedsheet, which was hung above the altar for many years. Though the artwork was damaged during the Spanish Civil War, it has since been restored and remains the centerpiece of the family’s chapel. If I weren’t already married, the space would definitely have planted the seed for a Spanish ceremony! 

The rooms… Mas Palou accommodates groups of various sizes across their three villas—whether you’re looking for some time away with family, friends or a romantic getaway, there’s a casita for you. Cal Joaquim accommodates ten people, with an accompanying pool where you can lounge with a bottle of wine and a book. The ornate wooden headboards, large dining table, and red gingham kitchen curtains make the space feel homey and very much gives the sense that their casa es su casa. Over the course of our stay, I kept thinking of all the people I’ll be inviting back with us next time and filling the extra bedrooms with. There are two other villas—Cal Lluis is the oldest on the property and sleeps six, while Casa Sant Juame is available in configurations for five or two. Each space has its own pool access, air-conditioning (necessary in summer), and a kitchen to inspire your own tapas creations—or  a simple jamón and queso platter that always hits the spot. 

The food & drink… The breakfast spread takes place in a space that is beautiful enough to feel like a film set or a page out of Architectural Digest. It’s an open-air room with arched doors flanked by billowing curtains, filled with antique furniture and objects—an old rocking chair in one corner, a stack of firewood in another— that make you imagine all kinds of different lives for yourself as you sip your morning coffee. With local cocoa bread on one end of the table, hand-made jam and honey in the middle, and freshly plucked apricots, cherries, and scrambled eggs on the other, you are spoiled for choice. Add in a large jug of coffee and freshly squeezed zumo de naranja and you’re in heaven. You can request more meals on site, but I recommend exploring the nearby towns for dinner each night—it’s part of the fun.

Anna took me through the historic barrel storage room, where wine barrels flank a long dining table that runs down the middle of the cavernous room. Here, they often host long lunches or dinners, and as the weather cools, these gatherings extend outside to group meals in the gardens. Years ago, Anna’s father shifted the focus from winemaking to grape sales, supplying other local winemakers. Recently, Anna and her sister Maria have decided to leave their own mark on regional winemaking, with a small trial label now in production. 

Be sure to… Visit El Centre in El Pla del Penedes for dinner, just a ten minute drive away. It’s communal, incredibly Catalan, and the most delicious, fuss-free meal you can hope for. We ate there on a Friday night, and with the streets empty of cars, the tables were brought outside under fairy lights as the town’s children played around us. It felt like we’d stumbled into a microcosm of all the things Spain does just right. 

Parting words…We left Mas Palou feeling more like family friends than guests, promising to return with a group for a long table lunch in the autumn, or even just for a coffee the next time they’re in Barcelona. 

Date of stay… June 2024