Killiehuntly Farmhouse, Scottish Highlands

In short… Killiehuntly Farmhouse is Hygge in the highlands

The surroundings… Killiehuntly is set on a large plot of conservation land in Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park, which looks exactly as you’d imagine the Scottish Highlands—large rolling hills and Munros (Scottish mountains over 3,000ft) in countless shades of green, a vast sky dotted with pockets of rain, and winding roads through small towns that disappear faster than you can figure out how to pronounce their names. 

We drove up from St Andrews, and when we were just three miles from Killiehuntly, passing through the small town of Kingussie and tragically lost, we stopped at a little café for directions. Later that evening, at the dinner table surrounded by eight strangers from different countries, we were surprised that we had all heard about Killiehuntly from our respective corners of the world—but the people living 3 miles down the road hadn’t. It seemed like a great secret we all wanted to keep. 

The vibe… feels like playing house with strangers in the middle of nowhere, which might sound like the setup for a Steven King novel, but there’s an alchemy that makes it all work. On our first visit, dinner conversations unfolded in three different languages, with guests sharing stories about walking safaris in the Serengeti and long, leisurely dinners at Fäviken, transcending the 4,000-acre property’s seemingly limitless bounds. It’s the kind of place you want to return to, but after talking to other guests, you leave with a long list of places they’ve inspired you to explore. It’s also the kind of place where, after your third glass of wine, your only dilemma is whether to set an alarm for a day of hiking, fishing and castle exploring—or to get a few extra hours of sleep, melting into the crisp, custom-made Lithuanian linens on your bed.

The rooms… Killiehuntly has a main farmhouse with four individual rooms for rent, as well as several cottages that are more private. On our first visit we stayed in the hayloft, which has its own separate entrance from the main farmhouse and is more secluded than the guest rooms, but still has access to the whole farmhouse. The hayloft has its own small kitchen with blonde wood wainscotting, stone floors and a deep farmhouse sink. Upstairs, a cozy living space blends into the bedroom, decorated in rich browns, greens, and grays that mirror the landscape outside—and refreshingly, it’s completely tartan free (a rarity in this part of Scotland!). Whether it was the wine at dinner or the fresh Highland air, I slept so well that I ended up buying the sheets, which are available in the small gift shop.

On our second visit, we opted for the Alder room in the farmhouse, which has a four-poster bed, en-suite bathroom, and windows overlooking fields of green and heather that blend together almost like a living Rothko painting. It’s worth noting that not all rooms in the farmhouse have their own bathroom, so if that’s important to you, make sure you check when booking! 

The food & drink… are a highlight. For guests staying in the farmhouse or hayloft, breakfast, a packed lunch, an afternoon treat, a three-course dinner and wine are all included in your nightly rate. Just about everything is sourced locally, or from their own gardens, so the menu is very seasonal and fresh. 

Dinner happens at a set time around the communal table, and guests often gather for cocktails in the living room beforehand—sinking into the low-lying sofas with a drink from the honor bar while generously swapping stories about their day. I’ve met grocery magnates, writers, photographers, German housewives, the heir to a Scottish shortbread company, and a fabulous divorcee who “lives for a living” at that table. One night, a guest ushered everyone outside to a surprise bonfire they had arranged, and later another showed us where they had discovered bottles of wine stashed in a bench. All that to say, people really do make themselves at home here, and the “communal table” experience extends beyond just mealtime. 

Breakfast isn’t at a set time, so you can stroll into the kitchen whenever you’d like it. By the time you’ve finished your coffee, a lunch wrapped in wax paper and twine is packed for you to take on your day’s adventures. 

The wellness… There’s no excuse—not even the Scottish weather—to skip spending time outdoors here. The mudroom is stocked with backpacks and lanterns, and there’s a pile of Norwegian sweaters to grab as you head out on whatever adventure you choose. Whether it’s walking the miles of trails that start right from the house, hiking a nearby munro, or fishing in one of the rivers or lochs surrounding Killiehuntly, they make sure you’re well equipped. And knowing there’s a roaring fireplace to return to only sweetens the deal. Since my last visit, they’ve added a sauna yurt and cold plunge, which seems like the perfect way to unwind while enjoying the elements. 

The sustainability… Killiehuntly is part of the Wildland group, which was established with a 200-year vision to restore the natural environment of the Scottish Highlands to its former glory. Over the past decade, Wildland has planted more than 5 million tree saplings across their Cairngorm estates (they own several significant properties throughout the Highlands), all of which were once part of ancient old-growth forests. The goal is to protect these remaining parcels, giving them the chance to regenerate. While we won’t see the full impact in our lifetimes, 200 years is just a blip on the ecological timescale, and soon enough, those millions of saplings will grow into a thriving, mature forest once again.

Be sure to… Ask the team to make a bonfire after dinner!

Parting words… In my family, calling something the “Killiehuntly of Puglia” or the “Killiehuntly of the Catskills” is high praise. It’s worth whatever hassle you might face getting here, and it’s a place I look forward to returning to again and again. 

Dates of stay… September 2017, September 2018