La Ponche, St Tropez

In short… La Ponche is the legendary and so beloved hotel in town gets a discreetly chic renovation

The surroundings… I’d always steered clear of St Tropez—we’d made plenty of road trips where we were driving right by it, but we didn’t stop, because its reputation preceded it—packed in the summer, with a crowd that likes to shop at the global luxury boutiques, and be at whatever is the it spot of the moment. But I always knew that at some point I needed to get here, and recently had the chance to spent a couple of nights there in mid-June, when it was a bit rainy and not too hot, and didn’t have the throngs of people. La Ponche is in the Old Town, the historic center of what once was a fishing village, (the neighborhood is actually called La Ponche) and it’s the one area that wasn’t bombed in WWII. There are the most charming little cobblestoned alleyways, no cars allowed, and you’re about a minute away from the dock, which you can swim off of. Now the hotel is open year round, so if you’re like me and allergic to too much buzz, come here in February!

The vibe… Given its history as the place that the celebrities of the 50s and 60s stayed at (from Sagan to Bardot to Sartre), any changes had to be sensitive. Fabrizio Casiraghi was entrusted with the task, and did a brilliant job. Sure, it was my first time, but it seemed like it had always looked like this.

The rooms…There are 21 rooms, some with views, all with relaxed charm. Given that the hotel was built in the late in 1938, it’s a bit of a ramble, and we got lost every single time we went to our room! I loved the letter press stationary in the room.

The wellness… They have a small spa, with La Mer products for facials, and I had a great massage there.

The food & drink…Sometimes it’s so refreshing to not have a buffet, but a simple and delicious breakfast menu like they have here; we loved their perfect omelettes. One night we had cocktails in their low lit bar, and had the place to ourselves. Afterwards we had dinner in their restaurant, and had an excellent meal—an elevated Provençal style fish, which was perfectly cooked, with a view out to the sea. Their chef Thomas Danigo, who also helms Galanga Monsieur George in Paris, creates a menu that emphasizes whatever is seasonal and the catch of the day.

Be sure to…Pick up a pair of Tropizienne sandals at Rondini, a family owned sandal shop in town, which is the oldest. Once you know your sizing, you can keep on ordering from them online! Take the coastal walk to the left of the hotel, just past the Citadelle—it’s magical. And if you do come here in the winter, make sure you eat at Auberge de la Mole, an all-you-can-eat incredible restaurant that’s about 45 minutes up in the hills.