Gstaad Palace, Switzerland

In short… Gstaad Palace is an old-world glamourous ski resort also built for summer Alpine living, floating high above a storybook valley.

The backstory… Gstaad Palace opened in 1913, but closed two years later during WWI. It reopened with much flair and decadence until WWII, when it became the repository for most of Germany’s gold. It’s been owned by the same family since 1947.

The surroundings… The backdrop is iconic Switzerland—a glass-ceilinged train slowly climbs up along the Swiss Riviera (Vevey, Lausanne), punctuated with (in summer) Swiss flags, swimming coves and vintage boats. In the green hills ranged by herds of clanging cows, wooden chalets with pink and red geraniums bursting from their window boxes are hand inscribed with farmers’ words to live by (e.g. “I know where I’m going when I’m virtuous”).

On the resort grounds, a turreted castle towers above a line of red clay tennis courts and a 1930s style pool (with original font!), evoking elegant, multi-generational leisure. The Olympic-size pool with three tiers of diving boards is where all of Gstaad convenes, as it’s open to town residents. Kids skip excitedly to the trampoline and line up to cannonball off the diving platforms, while the mothers gather at the piscine bar for an elderflower spritz and paprika chips. Everyone is happy, entertained and in their element—the setting evokes a wholesome nostalgia made even more Heidi-like with the snow-capped mountain backdrop. 

The vibe… Sumptuous but not garish, family friendly with warm, attentive hospitality. I saw many guests hugging and kissing members of the wait staff upon their return to the hotel. The restaurant is a dance in orchestrated service, where the white-tuxedo-suited staff spin and whirl through the 200 or so tables filled with families and old friends chicly dressed in Austrian jackets (for men) and sparkle and silk pants (for women). Children turn cartwheels in the lawn below while the hills really are alive with the sound of music—1920s to the Beatles. All of it on the terrace facing the soaring mountains as the sun slowly slips behind each jagged granite peak. 

The rooms… Mountain-lodge style suites with pale-wood paneling, exposed ceiling beams and comfortable fabrics, and traditional artwork unique to each room. Large bathrooms and walk-in closets are filled with a generous number of hangers—enough for their clientele’s sizable wardrobes to be augmented by the luxury brand stores in town. Our view of the mountains was made more magical by the lack of A/C, requiring us to keep the windows open throughout the night—stars, curious birds, and the violet light of dawn were all a vibrant part of our experience.

The wellness… There’s a grotto-like spa with a deep turquoise indoor pool, hammam and excellent treatments. My hot-stone massage was expertly executed with intoxicating jasmine oil. There are also several areas for lounging either in or out of the sun. The most relaxing was on the expansive lawn under some trees, a bit away from squealing kids. 

The food & drink… Every morning brought a resplendent breakfast buffet, brimming with colorful fresh fruits and berries, 12 types of cheese and eight yogurts—it’s Switzerland, after all!—plus several varieties of cured hams and other meats and freshly made omelets. Lunch and dinner are served on the main terrace—the food is truly excellent (I particularly loved the steak Diana flambéd next to the table with sherry, shallots and cream). In town, top spots to check out are Seize next door in Saanen and Rossli in Feutersoey—both offering traditional cuisine in chalets where the owners reside upstairs.

Extra tip goes to… Hard to highlight just one employee, but as the staff includes career-long concierges, maître d’s, and waiters, you sense the pride and care they take in their jobs. The warmth and attention to service is exhibited equally by all. 

Be sure to… Take an e-bike up along the Turpachbach River to find your own private swimming hole of rushing water, as eagles soar above you. Or hike up Wisspile—it’s gorgeous and challenging with insane views along the way, as you wind up the mountain below the cable-car route, goat paths offering shortcuts through wildflowers. You’ll want to stop to pick wild raspberries and blueberries so you can catch your breath. Or one can do the decidedly more popular route of taking the cable car straight up and walking three hours on a flat path to Lauenensee (“see” means lake).

A ten-minute taxi can take you to the village of Feutersoey and a 1.5-hr hike up through the forest—again, keep your eye out for the fraises des bois (minuscule wild strawberries) along the base of the forest path—which delivers you to the sparklingly clear man-made lake of Aunensee. A cheerful chalet kiosk provides well-deserved large platters of freshly made hot herbed fries perfectly paired with local cider on a porch high above the cool lake. 

Parting words… Picturesque and classic—everything I’d imaged summertime in Switzerland to be. 

Date of stay… August 2024