Hello from… Sifnos, Cyclades, Greece. It is no coincidence that this island’s capital, Apollonia, inherited its name from Apollo, the Ancient Greek God of light, as it’s the light here that gets me every time. As the co-founder of The Cycladist, a boutique travel design agency focused on the Greek islands, I first visited Sifnos fifteen years ago and immediately felt I’d landed in a place of intangible magic. The same thing happens every time the ferry pulls into Kamares. The minute the colors, the whitewashed houses, village hills and long stretch of sandy beach come into view, it’s as if a weight lifts from my shoulders and a sense of freedom and calm happiness that is quintessentially Cycladic descends.
A long-time secret favorite of both the more discerning Greek traveler and the French, Sifnos has become better known in recent years for its simple, elegant, “off-the-track” charm. It’s an island that speaks to beauty everywhere you look: from the Chrisopigi monastery surrounded by crystal blue waters, to the incredible colors of Kastro village at dusk, to the charming narrow alleys of Apollonia and Artemonas. Situated in the western Cyclades, Sifnos is a soft, easy exhale compared to buzzier islands like Mykonos, Santorini or even Paros. Here, time stands still, beauty reigns supreme, and the light—the glorious light—enfolds all of it in a one-of-a-kind glow.
Where I am staying… The Verina Astra, arguably our favorite hotel in the whole of the Cyclades. It’s a 16-room boutique hotel hanging off the Poulati cliffs that elegantly marries boho chic with simple Greek luxury. Perhaps the only thing rivaling its views—a sea of blue as far as you could stretch it—is Bostani, its world-class Mediterranean restaurant. Standout dishes include the revithada (chickpeas) with fresh crayfish (the essence of the Cyclades in a bite!), topped off with a superb distillate recommended by Yiannis, sommelier and old friend, called Mouhtaro Lost Lake, made from a rare red grape variety of the Musses Valley.
The best meal I had… is hard to pick! Sifnos’ “foodie” reputation is no random fact. Sifnos is the birthplace of Nikolaos Tselementes, a famous chef credited with modernizing Greek cuisine. In 1910, he wrote the first Greek cookbook that blended French cooking principles with Greek cuisine, and every self-respecting yiayia (grandmother) who considers herself a good cook owns one of these! These deep culinary roots and reputation explains why Sifnos’ restaurateurs and chefs keep innovating while, at the same time, respecting the island’s more traditional recipes such as revithokeftedes (fried chickpea meatballs) and mastelo (braised lamb with wine and dill).
A highlight meal was at a tiny fish bar called Omega 3 on Platis Gialos beach. It’s a Sifnos institution that has stayed true to its original charm, superb quality and the freshest local fish you can find. Kicking back in the laid-back space to tunes streaming from owner Vassili’s JBL, small plates arrive with perfect timing and, as always, to be shared. It’s hard to single out a favorite dish, but the slipper lobster carpaccio and amberjack tiradito may have to take the crown. Typically, I like to get there at 6pm and stay until the sun sets.…
If you’re up for something more experimental, try Giorgos Samoilis’ Cantina, perched atop a small beach called Seralia. The setting is mesmerizing, as is the set menu Giorgos has prepared that takes you on a unique gastronomic journey that shares the best of what the Greek land and sea have to offer.
On the more traditional side, you can’t go wrong with the family-run Taverna Chrisopigi, which you’ll find in a quiet bay at Apokofto beach. With your feet in the sand, enjoy simple authentic Greek dishes and local tsipouro, with an exquisite view of the monastery.
If I had to suggest one must-visit off-island location… it would be the untouched island of Polyaigos, home only to the goats after which it’s named. Just 40 minutes south of Sifnos, nestled between Milos and Kimolos, this Aegean oasis is the largest uninhabited island in the Cyclades and is known for its striking white vertical rocks, turquoise waters, unspoilt beaches and ancient tranquility. We hired our own private rib boat from A-La-Mer and Captain Yiannis, an islander who’s been sailing the archipelago since he was a small boy, took us to crystal-clear coves for dreamy swims and a truly sensational day at sea.
On the island, I always make time for a day or afternoon trip to the small fishing village of Cheronissos. Everything there—from the tavernas to the lack of signal to the simple, warm hospitality of the people—makes you feel like you are in a different time.
A thing or two I learned… As a visitor to Sifnos for many years, I knew the island has the largest number of churches and chapels in the Cyclades (over 250!) but I didn’t know the reason until my trip here this summer. For most of the previous century, many sailors working on Greek commercial ships came from Sifnos. According to tradition, families would build chapels and dedicate them to the Saint after which their son was named. There was a strong belief that this would ensure a sailor’s safe return!
The most fun thing I did… A hike up to Agios Simeon from Kamares beach. If you’re adventurous and up for a challenge, this 1.5-hour trail is a great way to experience the natural beauty of Sifnos, all while threading through rocky terrain and enjoying amazing sea views along the way. It gets a bit steep towards the top, but the view is infinitely worth it! When you finally reach the church of Agios Simeon, with panoramic views of surrounding Cycladic islands, it’s a feeling you won’t forget.
For something a little more leisurely, there’s a path connecting Glyfo and Apokofto beaches, which is an incredibly scenic trail that you can also take at night as the path is lit, by lamps or moonlight.
The best thing I’m bringing home… The island’s history in the form of handcrafted, hand-painted ceramics from the Lembesis family, who have been preserving this ancient craft for generations in their workshop, found between the villages of Apollonia and Artemonas. The Lembesis tradition is a relic of a time when the entire island was engaged in the ceramics trade, and is one that has been handed down from grandmother Katerina to her grandson, Nikos Lembesis.
I also never leave the island without the two ingredients needed to replicate the Sifnian version of a Greek salad: xynomizithra, a local soft cheese found only in the Cyclades (used in place of feta), and caper leaves (traditionally gathered in the spring). I’ll also use the capers to make kaparosalata (caper salad), a warm local salad. My go-to store for these delicacies is Gerontopoulos in Apollonia, where it’s pretty much impossible to resist stocking up on a few of the freshly-made sweets, too!
The playlist on repeat… Our The Cycladist playlist—a mix of feel-good tracks from various genres—captures the island’s vibe perfectly. Each song echoes moments here, from sunlit mornings to seaside dinners. Back home, these tunes will bring the island’s magic right back to me.
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