The Cap Ferret List

A few months ago I had breakfast in New York with Max Aniort, the cofounder of Le Collectionist, a France-based home rental company with a very discerning curation of properties across the country and Europe (and, as of this year, the U.S./Caribbean). Of all the places where they list vacation villas—bastides in the Luberon, chalets in Mègeve—the Brittany native became most animated when talking about Cap Ferret, which he fell in love with over a decade ago. “It’s a place that doesn’t exist anywhere else,” he said. “In the age of copy-paste luxury travel, it cannot be replicated.”

Cap Ferret is the southern part of the Lege-Cap-Ferret peninsula, a 10-kilometer-wide headland or presqu’île that separates the Atlantic Ocean and the Bassin D’Arcachon. It has two distinct flanks: the ocean side, with wild surf and wide sandy beaches backed by dunes, and the bay side, dotted with fishing villages by calmer waters. Not to be confused with St. Jean Cap Ferrat in the south of France—“more expensive, more bling,” Max says—Cap Ferret remains very natural and isolated, scented by dense pine forest that covers nearly half of the peninsula. It’s best known for its oyster farming, with colorful oyster shacks lining the bay side, its signature flat-bottom wooden boats called pinasses, and the lighthouse at the tip of Cap Ferret, which everyone climbs at least once.

An hour from Bordeaux, Cap Ferret has long been popular among the “wine bourgeoisie” from the region, who’ve been coming for generations and built wooden cabins that are secluded among the pines (which explains why it’s known for its amazing white wine, which goes perfectly with the briny oysters). Recently, the area has developed something of a low-key chic reputation, with French actors and other culturati discreetly buying houses, but it’s still relaxed and quite untouched by development, as City Hall has been very restrictive—no big hotels, the houses must be natural wood, and in some areas, you can’t even put in a swimming pool.

“Basically we say about Cap Ferret, pour vivre heureux vivons cachés, or ‘to live happy, live hidden,’ which is very French way to exist,” says Max’s colleague Clémentine Bloch, Le Collectionist’s director of Grand Ouest operations, when I reach her to find out more. Clémentine grew up in Bordeaux and spent summers on the peninsula at her grandparents’ house in the village of La Vigne, where her parents now live. “You just wake up and have a nice breakfast, go to the market, go to the beach, go for a bike ride. There are no museums, no big attractions. In fact, most people arrive at Cap Ferret and just leave their cars, then bike or walk everywhere—there’s no traffic to speak of.” If you’ve seen the 2010 movie Les Petits Mouchoirs (Little White Lies), you’ll recognize some of the scenery here.

The town of Cap Ferret is at the far end of the peninsula, but lining the eastern side are several small villages—Piraillan, Le Canon, L’Herbe, La Vigne and Belisaire, to name a few—largely based around clusters of 19^th century cabins built by the oyster industry in its heyday. Each one has its own character and local spots worth exploring. Clémentine says that July and August can get very busy, mainly with French tourists, but it’s worth coming in the off-season, with only homeowners prowling the nearly empty beaches and bayside villages. She still returns every summer with her two girls to enjoy the ocean and eat oysters, and she agreed to share a few of her favorite spots with us.

Food & Drink

There’s really not a fine dining scene in Cap Ferret. Most people come for a week and book maybe two restaurants—but for the most part people cook (or hire cooks) and go to friends’ houses and have dinner en plein air. Still, these are a few favorite places where locals go to enjoy a nice meal with family and friends in a very social atmosphere—most of them seafood focused, of course.

Chez Hortense – Enjoy the famous recipe of mussels with bacon as a starter and finish with a delicious fish from the Arcachon bay right in front of you, caught by the most famous fisherman on Cap Ferret.

Mayzou – A great trendy place with sharing plates and a very cozy-style restaurant for a nice dinner outside. Get the grilled eggplant Asiatic style! 

Sail Fish – If you want more of a party atmosphere with music and a lively crowd, this is a great place to be.

Chez Pierrette – Also great. In the village of Le Canon, it’s quintessential coastal dining, with fresh seafood, a charming atmosphere, and warm hospitality. Order a mojito and some tapas! 

There is one nightclub, Le Sun, but it’s really for young people and very casual. You won’t see much in the way of dresses and high heels here, but the décor is stylish (it’s the same owner as the Sail Fish) and the music goes until 5am.

Pinasse Café – It combines a chic, modern design with coastal charm and nautical elements. Be sure to sit on the outdoor terrace with stunning views of the surrounding bay and beach, making it a fantastic spot for enjoying meals al fresco, especially during the warmer months.

Wharf – A touch of Moroccan style by La Vigne’s harbor, with a contemporary French menu. Ask for Greg and his famous gin and tonic!  

Chez Pascal – The original creators of the  “dune blanche,” a puff pastry filled with cream. There used to be just one Chez Pascal, but it’s been getting very famous and expanding rapidly, now there are four on Cap Ferret and ones in Bordeaux and Paris as well. Other bakeries have tried to copy the dune blanche, but the owner of Chez Pascal trademarked it.

Fredelian – A destination where locals and visitors alike can relax, socialize, and indulge in a variety of pastries and ice creams. The salon is an elegant yet comfortable setting, making it an ideal spot for a leisurely afternoon or grabbing an ice cream to go enjoy on the beach, which is one minute away.

Oyster Shacks

You’ll find these on the Arcachon Bay side, super-specific places where you can only eat shrimp paté, oysters and sea snails. They don’t serve ice cream, crepes, or Cokes—they’re not allowed to.

Cabane du Mimbeau – Get oysters and a glass of Entre Deux Mers, the best white wine to go with seafood, and enjoy a nice aperitif watching the sunset on the Arcachon Bay. 

Le Ponton – The very last oyster shack past the Village de L’Herbe, where the fishermen’s houses are on a 100-year lease! It’s very typical; you cannot get the oysters closer than where they are farming. 

La Cabane D’Hortense – This place has nothing to do with Chez Hortense, but is a lovely spot for oysters.

Markets

There are several markets across the headlands, but the most famous one is on Cap Ferret, where locals and tourists mingle in a vibrant atmosphere. You’ll find all the typical French foods—cheeses, local produce, fish stalls. Chez Cocotte is a great stop for buying veggies and fruit. There’s a small bar at the market, Chez Peyo, which is a great place to enjoy the French way of living.

Bike Rentals

In Cap Ferret everybody rents a bike—there are bike lanes running up and down the headlands. I would recommend renting an electric bike, as it can be hilly. Our go-to is Western Flyer, though Le Collectionist clients can get them through our concierge service.  

Beaches

There are sand dunes on the Atlantic side—typically, you have to hike 10-15 minutes over the dunes to get to the beach, which can be a challenge with children. Most people park their car in the forest and walk straight over the dune, reaching the beach via one of many caillebottes, wooden stairs that take you over. But once you’re on the ocean, it’s so worth it—it’s beautiful and natural, with no restaurants, only a view and what feels like your own private beach. A couple to look for: Plage de l’Horizon, in the center of Cap Ferret, and Plage de la Pointe, at the tip of the Cap Ferret peninsula.

On the Arcachon Bay side, there are no dunes and small waves, so it’s super kid friendly. Try Plage des Américains—known for its historical significance, this beach is calm and serene, with shallow waters ideal for families with children. Or Plage de la Vigne, popular for its proximity to the marina, offering calm waters and a family-friendly atmosphere. It’s also a great spot to watch boats coming and going.

Shopping

The shopping culture in Cap Ferret has a strong sense of community. Many shop owners are locals who take pride in their products and their relationships with customers. 

Jane de Boy – A distinctive and stylish shop known for its unique blend of high-end fashion, lifestyle, and home décor items. The staff is knowledgeable and friendly—ask for Marie!

Mazette: A nice boutique to shop souvenirs and local products—like wine and honey—from Cap Ferret.

Other Activities

Surfing – Cap Ferret is synonymous with surfing, thanks to its 25 kilometers of sandy beach. Truc Vert is the ideal spot for beginners and kids. More experienced surfers love Les Dunes, a challenging spot with more raucous surf and a spectacular view of the Cap Ferret lighthouse.

Bird Island – Follow the path of the little train to Bélisaire Jetty, where you can rent a pinasse, the typical Cap Ferret boat, and navigate the bay, weaving through shell parks and charming huts on stilts. Disembark on Bird Island, a refuge for migratory birds, for a waterfront lunch before returning to the mainland.

Cap Ferret Lighthouse – For a panoramic view of the peninsula, climb the 258 steps of the famous lighthouse.

Rent a boat – Families love a day on a catamaran with an experienced skipper, navigating the tumultuous currents of the peninsula. While kids love the trampoline, adults can learn the ropes.

Shore fishing – On the bay side at low tide, there’s a treasure trove of seafood to forage for. You’ll find oysters, clams, razor clams, shrimps, and other shellfish—all you need are your hands and a bucket!

Dune du Pilat – On the other side of Bassin D’Arcachon, the dune looks like a colossal sandcastle. Accessible by car or boat, it has views of the ocean and pine forest and it’s fun to run or slide down it.

Picnic on Banc d’Arguin – At the foot of Dune du Pilat, this sandbank transforms with winds and currents. If you get there at the right moment in the tide shift, you’ll have an uninhabited island experience where you can picnic and watch migrating birds in their nesting grounds.

To Stay

According to Max, roughly 95% of the rental homes in Cap Ferret are exclusive to Le Collectionist, built via word of mouth among the owners. A few favorites: Villa Omnia, Villa Priya, Villa Clementine, Villa des Herons, Villa Leah, Villa Opaline, Villa Pinede.

As for hotels, again, there aren’t many, but we’ve heard good things about La Maison du Bassin, tucked away in a fisherman’s village, with a bistro and a bar that come to life at night. —A.P.