In short… Teranka Formentera is a new bohemian beach hideaway on the smallest and wildest of the Balearic islands, from the owners of our favorite Marbella Club.
The surroundings… Teranka Formentera is set back from a desirable stretch of Playa de Migjorn in Formentera, accessible only by boat (a 30-minute ferry ride from Ibiza). Known for its clear turquoise sea, Formentera remains wild and unspoiled due to its legacy of natural preservation, which has attracted creatives and bohemians seeking the free-spirited energy of Ibiza as it used to be. A 15-minute drive from the harbor in one of Teranka’s pastel blue Land Rovers brings you to the pine-flanked hotel, named for “terre d’ancrage,” a safe harbor between land, sea, and sky.
The vibe… Utterly low-key. A whitewashed bench frames a stone fountain, whose splashing combined with ambient cicada songs sets a welcoming soundtrack, while the subtle scent of pine drifts in from the Mediterranean gardens. The small reception area flows into a lounge-library done in earth tones, organic materials and an inviting curation of books. In an homage to the island’s creative roots, works by local female artists are everywhere, with paintings, sculpture and other installations throughout the property and gardens. The heart of Teranka is the serene swimming pool, surrounded by cushioned daybeds and loungers amidst a lush garden exploding with cacti, trees, bougainvillea and flowers. Like its sister property, The Marbella Club, families are embraced—and even the children have their own sanctuary, including a charming open-air kids’ space with a kitchen and little market stand.
The rooms… at the 35-key hotel are divided into Mar, Tierra and Cielo—sea, land and sky. Consistent with the rest of the compound, the décor is organic modern, incorporating natural materials such as linen, wood and jute set within beige textured walls. An addictive woody scent pervades the room from the Le Labo Santal toiletries in the large sleek bathrooms. The Cielo rooftop suite is great for families and has a gorgeous terrace with loungers, while the 22 Mar rooms have easy access to the restaurant, bar and pool. For families with young kids, the Tierra rooms near the gardens are ideal.
The wellness… The ancient Greeks defined wellbeing as both hedonic and eudaimonic (pursuing pleasure to achieve happiness vs. pursuing meaning), a dual approach that encompasses the wellbeing approach at Teranka. In addition to the usual spa offerings, there are wellness experiences and workshops rooted in traditional practices, like a meditative ceramics class that I took barefoot in the sandy garden. And the forward-thinking female owner, Jennica Arazi, aligned with wellness pioneers OPO, offering guided meditations and carefully curated soundscapes tailored to the natural surroundings—guests can download an app to do these guided meditations and sound baths anywhere around the hotel (if you forgot your AirPods, they’ll provide you with wooden ones). I enjoyed starting the day with Pilates at sunrise and ending it with sunset guided rituals, followed by a cala dip. There’s also an open-air gym and a shaded yoga and meditation terrace with sea views.
The food & drink… Dining is split between the rooftop lounge and sand garden. The rooftop serves up bright signature cocktails and an extensive crudo menu created by a Nobu alum, including some of the best ceviche I’ve ever had, especially the cucumber with ají amarillo. The watermelon salad with cheese and hints of spicy pepper are a refreshing lunchtime snack by the pool. The farm-to-table restaurant in the sand serves relaxed, produce-forward dinners—the roasted chicken, corn and red peppers were my favorites—while a DJ spins laid-back tunes on his mixer. Breakfast is healthy and plentiful without being too much—fresh fruit and juice just taste better when followed by a swim.
Be sure to… Ask the hotel to hire a boat for a day for snorkeling and anchoring at hidden beach coves. Vellmarí does great trips, with stops at at El Arco, El Rincón, Espalmador and Sa Torreta. Have lunch at Es Codol Foradat on Migjorn beach for excellent seafood, especially the paella. Be sure to end with their signature dessert, neula, consisting of frozen fresh cheese and creamy cacao-spread between a paper-thin waffle biscuit.
Parting words… Visit in shoulder season for the most authentic and tranquil experience—mid to end of September is ideal, when the sea has been warmed by the summer sun, though late May was lovely too, if the water a little too cool for non-Nordics to snorkel without a wetsuit.
Date of stay… Late May 2024
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