Copenhagen Black Book

Copenhagen is one of our favorite European cities, embodying a specific kind of creative confidence: great design is ubiquitous but not showy, the food is innovative without being precious, and everyone seems to dress well with very little effort. It’s both beautiful and functional, and also incredibly family friendly—with bike lanes, parks, and canals used by everybody. To get beyond the obvious, we tapped a dozen locals and insiders to share their favorites: old-school konditori serving up fresh cardamom buns, exceptional seasonal smørrebrød and Nordic-Japanese fare, a music hall worth the pilgrimage, private sculpture gardens and house museums. Plus the best design galleries, indie fashion shops, neighborhood markets, swimming spots, bike routes—and so many things to do with kids beyond Tivoli.

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Barbara Gullstein is Brand Director at the Copenhagen-based label By Malene Birger, where she oversees global identity and storytelling. Born in Copenhagen with Faroese heritage, she previously worked as a fashion director and consultant for leading Danish publications and brands, including Eurowoman and ELLE Denmark. 

Barbara Potts is a Copenhagen-born creative director. She was the co-founder of fashion label Saks Potts, dressing everyone from Lady Gaga to Rihanna and landing on the Forbes “30 Under 30” list in 2022. She lives in Copenhagen with her two daughters, Uma Eloise (4) and Mary (5 months). 

Bruce Pask is AVP, Men’s Fashion Office at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. He brings a refined editorial eye to luxury retail and more than three decades of experience that includes fashion director roles at T: The New York Times Style Magazine, GQ, and Cargo Magazine. He has been attending editions of Copenhagen Fashion Week as part of their guest program since 2017. 

Ditte Reffstrup is the Creative Director of GANNI. Originally from Hirtshals in Northern Denmark, Ditte moved to Copenhagen to pursue a career in fashion, starting out as a buyer for high-end specialty stores before becoming the Creative Director of GANNI in 2007. Ditte works and lives in Copenhagen with her husband and three children.

Emily Weiss is the founder and executive chairwoman of Glossier Inc. She recently moved with her family from New York to Copenhagen. 

Hilary Robertson is a creative consultant and writer based in Brooklyn and Hudson, New York. She is the author of six books including Nomad at Home, and writes a Substack of the same name. Her next book, The Materialist, an exploration of tactile interiors, will be published in Spring, 2027. 

Julius Værnes Iversen is a Danish curator, creative director, and founder of the Copenhagen-based multidisciplinary design studio, TABLEAU. Working across collectible design, interiors, exhibitions, and creative direction, his practice focuses on creating dialogue between art, design, craftsmanship, and material innovation. 

Kristian Haagen is a Danish watch collector and Vanity Fair contributor. He and his family recently moved to Copenhagen after spending ~20 years outside the city, close to the forest and sea. 

Pernille Teisbaek is a Danish fashion stylist, creative consultant, and contributing fashion editor at Vogue, known for her refined aesthetic and influential voice in global luxury fashion.

Silke Haagen Aaberg lives in Copenhagen and has a background in jewelry design and business from Copenhagen School of Design & Technology. She loves fashion (especially vintage), travel, and going anywhere you can dine with a dog (did you know there are apps for that?). She grew up outside the Danish capital (her father is Kristian Haagen!), close to nature and the beach.

Sophie Bille Brahe is a Copenhagen-based fine jewelry designer. A graduate of London’s Royal College of Art, her eponymous brand is represented in some of the world’s most distinguished luxury and fine jewelry destinations, as well as boutiques in New York and Copenhagen. 

Tina Seidenfaden Busck is a Danish gallery owner, interior designer, and art adviser, best known as the founder of The Apartment, a design gallery, shoppable showroom and exhibition space located in a historic building on the canals in Christianshavn, Copenhagen. Earlier this year she expanded The Apartment to include The Apartment Residence, allowing fans of the shop to stay overnight. 

STAYS

Favorite overall hotel

Hotel Sanders – When entering Hotel Sanders, vis-à-vis the Royal Danish Theatre—still housed in the same building in which it opened in 1748—I feel as if I’m stepping into my childhood home. The interiors carry a warm, familial Gefühl, inviting and deeply comforting. The top floor reminds me of my grandparents’ summer house in the north, complete with bamboo furniture that blurs the line between indoors and out. I once hosted a Christmas brunch with my family here, but it’s also a great spot for an afternoon drink. If cocktails are your jam, head to the signature bar, Tata, on the ground floor, or enjoy a light lunch in the intimate restaurant area. Sanders is owned by former Royal Ballet dancer Alexander Kølpin. As a guest, you can even book a guided tour of the neighboring Royal Theatre. – Kristian Haagen. My favorite hotel in Copenhagen is Hotel Sanders, a refined boutique hideaway where the city’s bustle fades into a calm, intimate atmosphere the moment you step inside. Tucked just behind Nyhavn, it feels like a secret retreat, with cobbled streets, great restaurants, and galleries right outside the door. From there, you can easily walk to landmarks like Amalienborg and the Royal Theatre. – Sophie Bille Brahe. Go here, even if you’re not staying, for breakfast, lunch, or drinks at the bar. – Barbara Gullstein. Located in the heart of Copenhagen, it perfectly captures the charm and elegance of the city. It’s beautifully decorated in a warm colonial style that feels both welcoming and refined. -Julius Værnes Iversen. I love the Hotel Sanders. It’s quintessential Danish hygge. They really have such an incredible atmosphere and vibe. Sitting outside at breakfast, they have blankets you can put over your lap and shearlings. It’s just super cozy. – Emily Weiss. Hotel Sanders is beautifully envisioned by Alexander Kølpin and the place to be.  – Bruce Pask