Dispatch from Natchez, Mississippi

Natchez, pronounced like “matches,” is a historic town in Mississippi and it is the last place on Earth I ever thought I would live.

My wife and I had spent nearly 30 years living in New York City, raising our two kids in the chaos and electricity of Manhattan. In 2016, when they were teens, we decided it was time to step off the treadmill and see the world from a different angle. The Deep South was not on our radar—yet. To get there, we had to first detour halfway around the world.

We spent several years in Bali, living an entirely different version of our lives—surfing, meditating, mastering the art of the scooter, adapting to international schooling. We were all happy. And then, in March of 2020, the world closed down.

What had felt like an adventure suddenly felt precarious. In a matter of days, we made the decision to leave. An old friend in Mississippi called with an offer: come stay in a historic country home next to he and his partner. It sounded absurd. But our Manhattan apartment was rented, flights were disappearing, and my wife—an original Southern belle—had roots there. We abandoned our home of four years and caught one of the last flights off the island.

One minute I was riding a scooter with a surfboard under my arm; the next, I was in the drive-thru at Popeyes Fried Chicken in Natchez, Mississippi.

We hunkered down and weathered the pandemic with a community that welcomed us without hesitation. We planted gardens, shot our first rifles, rode ATVs/crashed ATVs, and my wife’s Southern drawl, dulled after decades of living “up there” in New York, returned. What began as a temporary refuge slowly revealed itself as something else. Over two years, almost without noticing, we found ourselves falling for our new life in the South.

On one particularly sticky evening, while digesting our full bellies and rocking on a friend’s porch, we heard a whisper about a once-in-a-lifetime home that had yet to officially come on the market in downtown Natchez. Our New York real estate instincts kicked in. By the next afternoon—after a tour, a pour and a firm handshake—we found ourselves the proud owners of a fully furnished historic home right on the banks of the Mississippi River, and an old dog, Rascal, who apparently came with it.

The Mississippi River is the soul of Natchez and is treated with reverence and respect. Deceptively calm on the surface and nearly a half mile wide at this point, “The Big Muddy” harbors a lethal undertow that has taken many lives on its journey from Minnesota to New Orleans.

The town of Natchez has its own undercurrents and drips thick with history, a source of both pride and pain. As the second-largest slave trading port in the United States, the city does not deny the shadow of its past, yet at the same time shines with pride in its deeply rooted Southern traditions.

Having surrendered early to the advancing Union Army during the Civil War, Natchez was spared the flames that consumed its neighbors, Vicksburg and Jackson, thereby preserving much of its antebellum architecture. The historic district sits 200 feet above a vertical bluff on the eastern banks of the river, affording “Natchezians” some of the most stunning sunsets—and, some would say, a sense of topographical and cultural superiority over their low-lying Louisiana neighbors across the river.

At one point, this town had more millionaires per capita than any city in the United States. Over time, however, both the cotton and the money stopped flowing as they once had. The evidence of this former center of culture and trade remains, though with old Natchez families and the named historic homes they inhabit still holding their heads high.

Natchez is a soulful town with a story to tell—a place where everyone knows everyone else’s history and business, and they aren’t afraid to chat about it. Bless their hearts. If you lend them an ear, you may never get it back. (Now that the award-winning documentary Natchez is making a buzz on the festival circuit, the town is getting much more press, and not all of it positive. Fair enough, there is still racism here. But the Natchez we know is one of genuine warmth and openness.) 

The caramel charm of the locals, mixed with a steady drip of energized filmmakers, artists, writers, and other creatives, gives the sense that this is a place poised to have its time again—a place of history, beauty, and potential, covered by only a thin layer of dust. 

Although we have recently moved back into our Manhattan apartment, we’ve managed to keep our beloved home on the Mississippi River and now regularly go back and forth between two entirely different worlds, each adding appreciation for the other. New York City is in our blood, but Natchez is too now, and the town continues to lure us to the deep South with its beauty, charm and the special places such as these that we have come to know and love.

Little Easy – Tastefully set in a tiny historic building with exposed brick and reclaimed wood, this is a go-to spot for a solid Southern breakfast and boozy brunches.

Papi y Papi – Only open Thursday through Sunday, 9–5, this coffee shop is worth the wait. Co-owners Dub Rodgers and Linda Shehan serve some of the best coffee east of the Mississippi from their beyond-hip shop filled with coffee, cigars, and classic motorcycles.

Regina’s Kitchen – Named “Queen of the Biscuits” for good reason, Regina Charboneau’s warmth and Southern charm are key ingredients in her beloved biscuits and brunch classes. A fantastic way to immerse yourself in Southern food and storytelling.

Under-the-Hill Saloon – Perched on the edge of the Mississippi River, this 200-year-old saloon is the real deal and worth a drink—or three. A place where you still feel the ghosts of the past, when the notorious Under-the-Hill District served as a busy river port and red-light district.

Natchez Brewing Company – A casual spot with picnic tables inside and out, live music, trivia nights, great craft brews, and excellent thin-crust cauliflower pizza.

Dunleith Historic Inn – A monument to a time gone by and the only surviving example of a plantation house with a fully encircling colonnade of Greek Revival columns. A historic place to stay or, if nothing else, head to the original horse stables out back, which house two restaurants: The Castle upstairs for a more formal experience, and The Pub downstairs for a casual meal with a bar and fireplace.

Stanton Hall – A National Historic Landmark and a stunning example of Greek Revival architecture. Occupying an entire city block and boasting no fewer than 55 rooms, this mansion is worth at least a walk-by—if not a full tour.

Arts District Studio Gallery – A thoughtfully curated and innovative gallery that gives voice to regional artists across disciplines, with the added bonus of fascinating conversations with owner Beau Deshotel—if you’re lucky.

The Big Muddy Inn & Blues Room – This B&B pays homage to the owner’s musical roots and love of the blues, designed with exceptional colors, textures, and décor. Memorable rooms and a lively Blues Room make this place just damned fun; highly recommended for overnight stays or for just a raucously good time in the Blues Room.

The Burn Luxury Inn – A special B&B built in 1834 and a fantastic example of Greek Revival architecture and true Southern charm—the kind of place where you truly feel like a guest in another era where the breakfast is as classically Southern as the rooms themselves.

Natchez Trace Parkway – A scenic 444-mile national parkway beginning in Nashville, Tennessee, and ending in Natchez, Mississippi. A gentle ride through the backyard of the South—no billboards, no stoplights, and not much cell service. Perfect.

Field and Forest – A beautifully restored historic country home 20 miles outside Natchez, this B&B and event venue was meticulously redone by former Hollywood creatives and was used as a location for the Coen Brothers film O Brother, Where Art Thou? Live oaks, deep porches, and modern décor and amenities (such as a beautiful pool and sauna) provide a real shot of Southern comfort. It’s a place where modernity and history meet. The property is available only as a takeover rental, rather than just a room here or there, but it’s is a magical setting for big groups, weddings and any grand event.

Emerald Mound/Grand Village – Built by the original inhabitants, the Natchez Indians, between 1200 and 1730 CE, this is the second-largest ceremonial mound in the United States. Located just outside Natchez, it pairs well with a drive along a portion of the Natchez Trace Parkway.