In short… A 2nd-gen, family-owned splurgy piece of heaven in the Caribbean—which seamlessly combines old-world with fresh and chic.
The vibe… Situated on the west side of the island (the calm water side), Cobblers Cove is a 45-minute drive from the airport, just outside the small and charming Speightstown. Cobblers Cove began its life as a hotel in the late ‘60s, when the Godsal family bought a 1940s private residence and turned it into a hotel, adding cottages in the garden of the big house little by little. It isn’t a grand entrance; in fact, the front is a bit nondescript—which I like, because everything after feels like a surprise. After the check-in area, a path takes you through rich tropical gardens to the elegant Grand House, and the lovely blue sea beyond. The crowd is quite mixed–from newcomers who are attracted to its Slim Aarons old-school pink-and-white striped vibe, to original guests who have been on repeat for five decades.
The rooms… Hugh Godsal inherited the hotel from his parents, who really had a vision: his mother decorated in a genius English way—lots of Colefax chintz, wicker, color, with nothing matching but everything looking great. When Sam, Hugh’s wife, took on the refresh, she updated it with the intention of making it seem as if she had not touched a thing. The aesthetic is gentle and oh-so-chic—much of it has been here since the ‘70s, and then a lot of it comes from brilliantly curated local artists, or Sam’s friend Lulu, the co-founder of Soane, who make the most beautiful wicker pieces. I love the in-room robes—pink and blue seersucker, and they use a local beauty product which is so good, and no single-use plastics.
The food & drink… While traditions like afternoon tea, rum punch, and dressing for dinner are a big part of the culture, during the pandemic the hotel completely changed its approach to their food offerings. Local purveyors had always been important, but there were many things that had been imported just because the hotel thought the guests would expect to have orange juice, smoked salmon, and strawberry jam. Now they explain to their guests their philosophy, and while at first there was some resistance, especially to no orange juice at breakfast, now they get it. They serve whatever is grown there, like smoked flying fish, local lobsters, and whatever is the catch of the day from our own fisherman. And because they have changed their behavior, more local purveyors have been springing up: a woman making local salt, a company distilling and bottling local water (no more importing Evian and San Pellegrino), the hot sauce made by the prime minister’s sister, and a vegan coconut yogurt maker.
Be sure to… Check out their very well-edited gift shop called Salt Whistle, and take a walk into 350-year-old Speightstown to check out all the brightly colored historic buildings. I love the general store, which has some great products and packaging, from stationary to curry powder.
Date of stay… March 1-5 2020
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