Scotland has always held a dear place in my heart, and the four years I spent at university in Edinburgh only deepened that. I adapted so well to the lifestyle and culture there that I rarely left the city I’d learned to call home. I took a couple trips up to the Highlands, visited the Isle of Skye, ventured into Aberdeenshire and was spoiled by a stay at the Fife Arms, but much of central and western Scotland remained a mystery to me.
During my time there, Glasgow held its own appeal: a bustling music and clubbing scene, and more of a city lifestyle compared to Edinburgh’s town-like feel. The first time I visited was a day trip (it’s just under an hour from Edinburgh by train) for a very boring visa appointment, and I remember remarking how the downtown area reminded me of Philadelphia’s financial district, whereas the West End’s charming brownstones and hilly streets resembled Brooklyn. I was intrigued by the city, but I never really got to know it, nor made the effort to.
So when I was invited by Visit Scotland to spend some time in Glasgow on a trip to the Isle of Arran, I jumped at the chance. In addition to two days in Scotland’s largest city, which lately has come to be known for its quietly exploding food and cultural scene, we’d also immerse ourselves in Arran’s dramatic Highlands landscape and traditions from whisky to dairy farming.
It was mid-September, the perfect season to visit Scotland. The air is fresh, longer days still linger, and besides the occasional rain shower, the weather is usually pleasant. I arrived in Glasgow from Rome (it’s a very well connected city) and was welcomed by a Tennant’s billboard (Scotland’s best beer) and a perfectly greasy Chinese meal at China Sea Restaurant, super old-school and delicious. After settling down and sleeping in, I spent the next morning researching restaurants and cafes, since I believe a coffee shop is the perfect introduction to a new city. This is how I came to discover OUTLIER, a delicious and terribly cool restaurant and bakery not too far from Glasgow’s city center, which I walked to. I sat at the sun-soaked counter and enjoyed my delicious flat white and tomato-eggplant pizzette turnover creation, fueling up before meeting the others on the trip to take the ferry to Arran.
Isle of Arran
After hastily purchasing a pair of Wellies from Mountain Warehouse in anticipation of needing proper footwear, I headed off with the group to the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry port in Adrossan, about an hour from Glasgow. The ferry terminal was quaint, with a lovely breeze coming off of the Firth of Clyde and two lovely ladies operating the terminal cafe. I totally fell in love with the ferry itself: completely caught in time, with red plastic benches, vintage typography, and the most perfect restaurant, where we fueled up with a delicious, no-nonsense plate of fish and chips during the hourlong smooth, if gloomy, journey to Arran.
Our first stop in the port town of Brodick was the Arran Heritage Museum, a volunteer-run museum on the site of an old schoolhouse alongside a stream. The museum houses remarkable exhibits of Arran’s history, innovation, engineering and industry, as well as a total reconstruction of a traditional Arran home. I especially loved the traditional Scottish recipes available for purchase (10p each), and all the vintage photographs of the island.
From there we continued our cultural tour, heading to Brodick Castle—the ancient seat of the Dukes of Hamilton and an incredible estate. The house was a truly engaging mix between a stately home and an art museum. I especially loved the intricate canopy beds and perfectly maintained Victorian bathrooms, not to mention the amazing wall of stag heads in the main staircase.
That afternoon, we checked into our sweet hotel and met up with our guide, Alex, who would be our Arran connoisseur for the rest of our time on the island. He runs his own tour company, Mogabout, and has a 4 x 4 Mercedes Unimog, which he converted into a touring vehicle—and a total beast at that. He took us on a scenic drive up to one of the highest points on the island, with an incredible view over the water and neighboring islands—it was perfectly misty on the heather-covered mountain, a true Scottish moment.
The next day was jam packed in the best way. We began with a drive around the island with Alex, stopping off in Blackwaterfoot in the southwest part of the island. On the beach, I was intrigued by a truck that had been converted into a sauna—it’s called the Green Goddess Wild Sauna and can be booked for public or private use on any Arran beach; good to know for next time! We paused to take in the view and went for a wander in the quaint village. Naturally, my first stop was the town bakery, Blackwater Bakehouse, the cutest sourdough bakery/honesty stand with incredible pastries and a solid cup of tea.
We drove 10 minutes inland to Bellevue Farm, a family-owned and -operated working farm that offers hands-on animal experiences and tours. Ailsa, the 6th-generation owner, hosted us for the most delicious lunch in the barn, spoiling us with incredible home cooking: farm-raised lamb, fresh potatoes, carrots and all of the fixings. After lunch, Ailsa brought us outside and thrust a warm bottle of milk into my hands, instructing me to feed the farm’s newest tenant, a Lincoln Red calf—easily one of the highlights of my life. The farm is home to a few Highland cows as well, which were full of personality and equally pleased by the snacks we’d brought. You could feel Ailsa’s passion as she showed us around the farm, particularly when she introduced us to her alpacas, with whom she was incredibly affectionate—not to mention her charming goats and cheeky chickens.
The rest of our afternoon was centered around another cornerstone of Scottish traditional culture: whisky. So off we headed to the north of the island to a sweet seaside village called Lochranza, especially picturesque in the sunshine. Alex brought us to a beautiful castle ruin on the seashore for some fresh air before our tasting at Arran Whisky. The tasting of single malts was great—they still use casks from the first distillation—and the distillery itself was beautiful.
On our last morning on Arran, the sun was shining and it was a truly perfect Scottish day, where you throw caution to the wind and leave your winter coat in the car…. We met up again with Alex, who at this point felt like a dear friend as we set off for another drive around the island. We stopped at various breathtaking viewpoints and soon arrived in the most charming town of Corrie, where we stopped for lunch at Mara, on a sea-facing patio. The deli section was filled with beautiful canned fish, Perello olives, my favorite Blackthorn salt, and other interesting condiments. I had the freshest fish tacos, and we all shared delicious fish en papillote with beets and potatoes—I mean, where can you get this at a humble beachside fish shack? Tip: there’s no bathroom at Mara, but you can nip down to The Corrie Hotel, which also has a lovely beachside lawn patio for a pint if you fancy.
On our way back to the Brodick ferry port to catch the boat back to Glasgow, Alex pulled over at The Doctor’s Bath. On the pink sandstone banks of the sea just past Corrie, there’s a miraculous stone bathtub dating back to the early 19th century. He explained it was carved out by a local doctor who used the natural tub for treating his patients with salt water therapy! It can still be used by those brave enough to dip into the freezing water. I loved this testament to the natural beauty and innovation of this little island.
P.S. We stayed at The Douglas and it was pretty cute, with rooms on the basic side but a solid restaurant and lovely bar. I’d also recommend looking into the Auchrannie Resort & Spa, one of the larger and higher-end hotels on the island with a spa, The Lagg Inn, a very cute “cottage core” option, or The Ormidale, another sweet family-owned pub/hotel on the island. If you’re traveling with kids, be sure to visit the Arran COAST, an interactive center about ocean conservation around Arran, as well as Maol Fold, for a hands-on Highland cow experience.
Glasgow
Back in Glasgow, we had some down time, then went for a delicious dinner at Margo (more on that below) and tucked ourselves into bed before a packed day spent exploring the city. Along with being a good walking city, Glasgow also has a subway, which loops around the city and is incredibly easy and convenient to take.
We spent our two days in Glasgow exploring, and on a sunny day we were happy to be on foot. A highlight was our visit to The Burrell Collection, an incredibly comprehensive trove of Medieval art to 19th-century French Master paintings, all originally part of the private collection of Sir William Burrell, a Scottish shipping magnate, who gifted it to the city of Glasgow after his death. In a city full of many contrasts between tradition and innovation, this was the perfect finale, as well as an enticing invitation to come back and explore futher.
A FEW MORE GLASGOW DETAILS
Where we ate
Glasgow has become known for its growing food scene. Although I barely scratched the surface on this trip, we did have some great meals.
Cafe Gandolfi – Opened in 1979 and home to Glasgow’s first proper (Italian) coffee machine, Cafe Gandolfi has great Italian food that feels homemade and very fresh. I had an incredible panzanella and a deliciously light eggplant parm. Plus the space is very cool and incredibly welcoming, and once housed a cheese market.
Margo – I loved Margo! We ate here our first night in Glasgow after Arran and it was delicious. All of the ingredients are fresh and the food is ingredient-led and beautifully prepared. It’s more of a small plates, sharing vibe, which is always fun; you can order pretty much anything off the menu and be satisfied. They also do great cocktails.
Mharsanta – While the vibe here isn’t as cute or trendy as at Gandolfi or Margo, this is the place to go if you want a taste of real Scottish cuisine. They have all of the classics from haggis, neeps and tatties to cullin skink and more, and it’s all really well done. Some days they also have live Scottish music during dinner, which is loud, but fun!
Gloriosa – I didn’t actually get to eat here, but will on my next trip. It’s meant to be amazing, with a seasonally changing menu using local ingredients. Their Instagram is also a constant source of food inspiration for me, and I’m considering making the trip up to Glasgow for it.
A few things to do
Visit The Burrell Collection
Buy some chocolate at Barebones Chocolate
Visit the Glasgow Necropolis and the Glasgow Cathedral
Check our Barras market and go for a show at the Barrowlands if you can!
Where to stay
We stayed at The Address and the VOCO in the Grand Central Station, which were okay, but I wouldn’t wholeheartedly recommend them. Some other nice options below!
Marr Hall – 10-minute drive from the airport and lovely!
Crossbasket Hotel – A beautifully restored castle a short drive out of the city center.
Kimpton Blythswood Square – A solid option!
Native – Well decorated apartment style rooms.
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