Marrakech has always drawn waves of visitors looking for something a little freer, more sensory—from the bohemian expats of the 1960s and ‘70s (think Yves Saint Laurent, Talitha Getty and their ilk), to today’s designers, artists, and stylish long-weekenders. In the last five years, the hotel scene has grown significantly, with a proliferation of small, charming riads opening in the medina and personality-filled countryside retreats beyond the city walls.
The first decision for any visitor is whether you want to stay inside the medina’s maze of alleys, or outside it. And if outside, just how far? Some of us love waking up steps from the hurlyburly of Jemaa el-Fnaa and the souks; others prefer dipping into the old city and then retreating to palm groves, olive farms, horse stables, or Atlas Mountain views, all within a relatively easy drive. (Or, combine the two for a city-country stay!)
Our guide gathers places we’ve either stayed at or come recommended, all within roughly an hour of the historic center, moving clockwise around the city. For what to do once you’re there—from lunch in a 1930s pétanque club to a tagine dinner in opulent splendor; visiting the best family-owned rug shop, a museum with a stunning jewelry collection, or most spoiling hammam—have a look at our Marrakech Black Book.
The Medina/Historic Center
The beating heart of Marrakech, the medina is a UNESCO-listed labyrinth of narrow streets, souks, and centuries of history, anchored by Jemaa el-Fnaa square, where snake charmers, musicians and food stalls take over at night. Just minutes from the sensory overload, true calm lies behind several unassuming doors that open into charming boutique riads with jewelbox pools, shady gardens and expansive roof terraces.
Dar Kawa – Owned by Valerie Barkowski—of the eponymous linens workshop/boutique—this minimalist 5-room riad is “a deep-dive into the possibilities of a black-and-white palette,” according to a stylist friend who loved it, with vernacular four-poster beds strewn with Amazigh rugs and stylish seating areas arranged around the courtyard garden. Also: the chef makes an amazing homemade couscous.
Izza Marrakech – If a nostalgia for the bohemian spirit of 1970s Marrakech rings your bell, you’ll feel at home in Izza’s decadent interiors—homages to American interior designer Bill Willis, who defined the lavish Moroccan-modernist style of the era. The 14-room warren of interlinked riads is best known for its $6.5 million art collection, an unrestrained mix of Moroccan contemporary art and international photography (plus an artist residency that supports local talent).
Subscribe to YOLO Intel to read the full story.
Digital subscribers can access our entire archive of content, including Black Books, Travel Planners, Guest Books and destination lists.
to access premium content and manage your account.
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.