Just Back From…Tuscia 

For years, I’ve heard friends go on about how amazing Tuscia is—just north of Rome, it’s part of Lazio but named for its role as the Etruscan stronghold of the region. I’d been to one of my favorite hillside towns, Orvieto, many times; Bomarzo, the 16th-century surreal “monster garden” park; the raised Renaissance gardens at Castello Ruspoli; and spent a night at the lovely  Villa Tirrena—usually on route to Tuscany, Umbria, or anywhere north. But I’d never planned an intentional trip to the region.