A Road Trip Through The Alentejo

Patterns of Portugal: A Journey Through Colors, History, Tiles & Architecture, by Christine Chitnis

Christine’s first book, Patterns of India—exploring the exuberant palette and intricate embellishments of her husband’s home of Rajasthan—has been essential escapist reading for us since it was published early in the pandemic. So when we heard the author-photographer had a new book coming out, Patterns of Portugal, we asked her to write something for the Spring ‘24 issue of Yolo Journal. Which we’re reprinting here! Below is Christine’s account of her drive through the Alentejo chasing traditional artisans, bright tiles and bougainvillea set against whitewashed villages (and staying in a few fabulous hotels) while researching her book.

AN ALENTEJO ROAD TRIP

Sparkling with a golden light that dances off olive groves and gnarled, ancient cork trees, the sparsely populated Alentejo feels like a well-preserved secret. The landscape, though arid, is fertile, renowned for its wine, olive oil, cork, wheat and heritage livestock breeds. The rich red-clay soil is essential for crafting terra-cotta. Portugal’s well-maintained roads wind through lush green countryside, picturesque villages and coastlines, making traveling by car a breeze.

This is how I found myself on a solo, two-week trip through the Alentejo, which encompasses the land southeast of the Tagus River, bounded on the east by the Spanish border and on the southwest by the Atlantic Ocean. In Portuguese, its name means “beyond (além) the Tagus river (Tejo).” My purpose was to research my book, Patterns of Portugal, delving into how color and pattern intricately weave into the country’s culture, history, architecture, and traditions. Portugal’s compactness—roughly 350 miles long and 110 wide—lends itself to a spontaneous itinerary, yet belies its weighty historical significance as the seat of the first global empire, a history reflected through the use of surface design.

As a photographer, I was drawn to Portugal’s unique palette and rich use of pattern, and intrigued by how the same hues seem to echo throughout the country. The blue-and-white azulejos (tiles) are reflected in the sunbaked beaches and enchanting blue water of the Atlantic coast. The fuchsia and gold of bougainvillea in bloom are mirrored, though timeworn and softened, in the colorfully painted pastel facades of homes.

Beyond aesthetics, the warm reception from the people I met shaped my travels. I was plied with sparkling, incandescent wines; I feasted on fish pulled from the water before me and grilled over a beach fire; and I was guided through artists’ studios, working farms, homesteads and vineyards. Steering away from tourist traps, I found myself visiting tiny olarias (pottery studios), centuries-old textile mills, and villages and museums dedicated to telling the stories of traditional Portuguese craft. I stayed in intimate hotels that solidified the Portuguese talent for seamlessly merging historic preservation with architectural creativity. Two of my favorites were the first stops on my trip: Convento do Espinheiro and São Lourenço do Barrocal.

Convento do Espinheiro was once home to monks from the Order of Saint Jerome, and it stands as one of the earliest examples of Renaissance architecture in the UNESCO World Heritage city of Évora. Just over an hour from Lisbon, Évora is home to many historically significant sites: Chapel of the Bones, the Évora Cathedral, and ancient Roman and Moorish ruins. Nearby, the town of Arraiolos, centered around its centuries-old tradition of hand-embroidered rugs dating to the 16th century, offers open-door workshops lining the streets and the Arraiolos Tapestry Museum narrating the rich history.

A 45-minute drive from Évora brought me to São Lourenço do Barrocal, nestled among ancient cork trees and flourishing olive groves. Once a bustling 19th-century farming village, it remains a hub of agricultural production, including wine and olive oil. Old stone farm buildings have been transformed into charming rooms, cottages, a restaurant and a spa. Day trips to Monsaraz, a stunning medieval hilltop village, and Corval, the largest pottery community in Portugal, are easily accessible.

Instead of heading right back to Lisbon, I aimed south and spent time unwinding on the coast. The drive to Alentejo’s coastal region and the villages of Melides and Comporta is about two hours. There are stunning places to stay here—Vermelho, Christian Louboutin’s new hotel, and Sublime Comporta, a tranquil, 17-acre property—from which to explore the fashionable town of Comporta. Here, one can savor grilled squid, Ibérico pork, and cured sardine bites at Cavalariça and Almo café, or sunbathe on the stunning beaches—Praia da Comporta, Praia da Torre, Praia do Carvalhal, and Praia do Pego.

It’s on the coast that the magic of the Alentejo reveals itself—its ability to blend historical depth with contemporary flair, to interlace tradition with modernity. The golden light, the ancient cork trees, the vibrant azulejos, the sunbaked beaches, and the warm hospitality—all paint the Alentejo as a uniquely Portuguese destination where every color, every pattern, and every moment tells a story steeped in history.