We bought a house in the Médoc region around six years ago, and Bordeaux (where we fly or train into) is truly one of our favorite places to visit when we’re here…and it just keeps getting better. Of course I’ll always love Paris, but Bordeaux is incredibly beautiful, elegant, and manageable. Sure it has a high street with some of the expected chain stores, but the majority will be independents that are only here, or maybe they are the outpost of one in Cap Ferret, about an hour away. Since many of you have asked for this list—and most of you will only spend 1-2 days here, I’ll give you my ideal day, because this town does have the siesta hours, so it’s important to build your day around that. (Note: I’m not including things like museums, churches, parks—I’m assuming you’ll be figuring out that on your own. I’m not aiming to be the one-stop-shop guide here—just to give you my discoveries!) Most recent update August 2025
We arrive in the morning and start at the flea market at St Michel, where we always find some treasures, then head across the street to Les Brocanteurs de St Michel, then hit any other antique shops around there (there’s always one closing and a new one opening up so just walk around a bit). If we feel like making a special occasion lunch, we’ll go to La Tupina, which is a 5 minute walk from here. It’s one of the most “like walking into a painting” restaurants I’ve ever been to. And the food is very special. Also in the area is the Capucins food market which is a real working market not just a pretty one! And on the same street is a new favorite, Au Bistro, which is thoughtful updated twists on bistro classics. From there we’ll walk to our favorite brush store Au Sanglier de Russie (since 1812!) and find something we may or may not need (the computer key brush is always useful!), but we’ll input into our maps first La Boulangerie Saint Michel (not that you need bread, but it’s such a beautiful bakery!) and then the Grosse Cloche (so you can walk past an important must on your way). From there, if you want to do a bit of shopping, there’s the Graduate (started as a men’s store, opened a small women’s shop just across the way), and you’ll pass a pretty good vintage store on your way as well. Look into the window of the best cheese shop, Fromagerie Deruelle, or pick some up for later! Now it’s time for a pick-me-up at the best coffee in Bordeaux, Alchimiste. And the perfect treat to go with it, a dune blanche (a treat that comes from Cap Ferret, is just across the way—literally 15 feet. I’m not saying anything more about it, just trust me). After this, we walk to Badie the champagne store, and look at all the labels we’ve never seen before, and always pick up a couple to try. There are also so many in half bottles if you’re staying in a hotel and want to have one in your room for a fraction of the price at a restaurant—also, something you just won’t see on menus. Then a walk down the street to the prettiest and best chocolate shop in the world, Cadiot Badie, with the most beautiful flower shop right next door. We always bring home the bars as gifts, and eat the chocolate covered orange peels before we make it home. Last but certainly not least on this itinerary is the Chartrons quarter, which is a 15 minute walk. This is one of my favorite (I realize I’ve said “favorite” about 20 times already) neighborhoods of any city in the world—it just doesn’t get more charming. Meander into every little antique store on Rue Notre Dame, and, although you’re already stuffed, you need to get a treat at the best bakery in town, Le P’tite Boulangerie. Since we are always driving home after a long day in town, we don’t have cocktails—but our local friends tell us that the cocktail bar Apothek is really great.
There you have it—my perfect day—but here’s a list of all the other spots I love, plus hotels! There is a lot in between all the recs above, so if it isn’t in here, it doesn’t mean I don’t recommend it! There’s a lot that is opening all the time, and also, only so many hours in the day. And if there’s something you love and it’s not on this list, please share it in the comments! I almost forgot my most important tip: the best bathroom in all of Bordeaux where nobody will give you a hard time—the Intercontinental right on the main square—walk in like you’re staying there, stay to the right, head down the stairs…et voila! —Yolanda
(For more info on Bordeaux and the region, have a look at our France Travel Planner.)
EAT/DRINK
Au Bistrot is our absolute favorite! As soon as we know we’re heading to Bordeaux, we make a booking here. The food is from the market just down the road, and the wine list is so smart and reasonable. Great vibe!
Gaūta: Our friend Basile lives in town, has very discerning taste, and loves this Southwestern French spot!
Frida: Another Basile favorite—he says the wine list is great, as are the cocktails.
Le Petit Commerce: a rare restaurant that is open all day…most close by 2/2:30, and reopen at 7:30pm.
La Pointe in the Chartrons area is super charming and has excellent seafood. It’s in the spot where Chez Boulan was.
Le Noailles: classic brasserie with a solid menu and good people watching.
La Tupina is one of the prettiest restaurants, and I love it for its roasted chicken and frites, but if I’m being honest, you go here for how perfectly styled it is more than the food.
Bouillon des Quinconces used to be Brasserie L’Orleans, a favorite of ours, for the food and the central location just between the center and the Chartrons, but in June 2025, they changed hands, and now it’s perhaps even better. The prices are so good, and so is the quality. More of a lunch than dinner vibe.
Chez Dupont: On Rue Notre Dame, a classic French bistro that has a solid menu, and a charming interior.
Dunes Blanches chez Pascal Bordeaux for a delicious cream puff, right across the way from our favorite coffee place, L’Alchimiste.
Fromagerie Deruelle is the prettiest cheese shop!
Au Petrin Moissagais is one of the most caught-in-time bakeries I’ve ever been in….they actually serve a small breakfast too and you can sit down inside.
Le P’tite Boulangerie on Rue Notre Dame has the best croissants and perfect baguette sandwiches.
Bar Notre Dame is a classic old man bar where you can get a good beer and an okay coffee, but excellent people watching.
Maison Seguin (for “le puits d’Amour”, a delicate meringue that is super light and unlike anything you’ve ever had.)
Apothek on Rue Notre Dame for cocktails
SHOPPING
Le Centre Ville Antiquités is a hodge podge of vintage key chains, postcards, silver, clothes…with an eccentric owner, right in the center of town.
Graduate: It might feel a little too NYC in France, but it’s Bordeaux owned, and if you want intel on what’s cool in town, they will be able to tell you.
Parfumerie de l’Opera: Old school, out of a movie—a sweet shop owner—and it’s right down street from Cadiot Badie.
L’Intendant: Impressive wine shop.
Badie Champagne is a store just for Champagne—even if you’re not buying, it’s fascinating to see all these little brands you’ve never heard of.
Cadiot Badie is a jewel of a chocolate shop. Perfect souvenirs to bring back!
Cabanes & Chateaux is a lovely interiors store owned by Laurent, a super thoughtful guy with great taste. He speaks English, and also stocks both Yolo Journal and Wm Brown.
Le Chat Bleu is mid-century-ish + 70s vibe, very different from all the other antique stores in town.
Le Passage Notre-Dame is a multi-dealer two story antique store, where we’ve picked up some nice pieces.
Au Sanglier de Russie is a shop dedicated to brushes!
Au Dénicheur is a little like going into a collector’s cave…drawers filled with vintage photos, city flags, card games…Matt picked up a Martini sign, and two Martini umbrellas here!
Le Comptoir Arcachonnais is a super charming epicerie with all local food and drink treats…from the best butter cookies to hard-to-find French tonic water.
jqln is a higher end multi-brand store that carries The Row, Jill Sander, JW Anderson.
HOTELS
Maison Fernand is a small bed and breakfast that is very thoughtfully curated.
Mondrian Bordeaux Les Carmes is a recent addition to the city—it’s on the edge of the Chartrons area, and closer to the north, so it’s perfect if you’re planning on day trips to the Médoc vineyards, or frankly, anywhere out of town. Rooms are well appointed, it has a good bar, indoor pool, and a Morimoto restaurant.
Lola: Boutique hotel with a very cute bar and cafe, right across from St Michel, which is great if you’re antiquing. If you have a lot of luggage, it wouldn’t be my first choice, as there is no elevator, and the bartender doubles as the bellman.
Villa Foch: My friend Maca stayed here and loved her room—said her suite had high ceilings, great light, and was super comfortable. The downstairs decor is a little too design-y, but the rooms are less so. Then again, my friend Cristina said she felt the price was too high for the experience.
Villa Segur: We just put our daughter up here as we needed a spot close to the train station. It’s more like a bed and breakfast-no restaurant or bar-but it is super nice, clean, comfortable…and does a nice little organic breakfast spread. It’s very inexpensive and it’s a 4 minute walk to the station.
This very chic Airbnb in the Chartrons
Intercontinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hotel: We stayed here years ago, before we bought our house. Jacques Garcia did the rooms, it’s a five star, and it’s the most conveniently located.
Chez Dupont: Owners of the classic restaurant on Rue Notre Dame also rent out rooms in our favorite neighborhood.
Seeko’o Hotel: A new modern design hotel that’s right across from the river, and on the edge of the Chartrons area.
Maison Fredon is owned by La Tupina which is just across the street. It has several suites, and while some of the rooms have some odd decor choices, it’s well located in the St. Michel area.
Les Sources de Caudalie: We really don’t ever need to spend a night in Bordeaux since we have our place an hour north, so I’ve gotten these recs from friends, or places I’ve scouted. However, we’ve spent several glorious nights at this property, primarily because it is so close to the airport, that if we have a super early flight, we just go there for the afternoon, enjoy the spa, have a delicious meal, and a less painful journey the next day. It’s not in town, but if you want a bit of wine country and the city, this is a good way to get both.
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