The Bordeaux List

We bought a house in the Médoc region around six years ago, and Bordeaux (where we fly or train into) is truly one of our favorite places to visit when we’re here…and it just keeps getting better. Of course I’ll always love Paris, but Bordeaux is incredibly beautiful, elegant, and manageable. Sure it has a high street with some of the expected chain stores, but the majority will be independents that are only here, or maybe they are the outpost of one in Cap Ferret, about an hour away. Since many of you have asked for this list—and most of you will only spend 1-2 days here, I’ll give you my ideal day, because this town does have the siesta hours, so it’s important to build your day around that. (Note: I’m not including things like museums, churches, parks—I’m assuming you’ll be figuring out that on your own. I’m not aiming to be the one-stop-shop guide here—just to give you my discoveries!) Most recent update August 2025

We arrive in the morning and start at the flea market at St Michel, where we always find some treasures, then head across the street to Les Brocanteurs de St Michel, then hit any other antique shops around there (there’s always one closing and a new one opening up so just walk around a bit). If we feel like making a special occasion lunch, we’ll go to La Tupina, which is a 5 minute walk from here. It’s one of the most “like walking into a painting” restaurants I’ve ever been to. And the food is very special. Also in the area is the Capucins food market which is a real working market not just a pretty one! And on the same street is a new favorite, Au Bistro, which is thoughtful updated twists on bistro classics. From there we’ll walk to our favorite brush store Au Sanglier de Russie (since 1812!) and find something we may or may not need (the computer key brush is always useful!), but we’ll input into our maps first La Boulangerie Saint Michel (not that you need bread, but it’s such a beautiful bakery!) and then the Grosse Cloche (so you can walk past an important must on your way). From there, if you want to do a bit of shopping, there’s the Graduate (started as a men’s store, opened a small women’s shop just across the way), and you’ll pass a pretty good vintage store on your way as well. Look into the window of the best cheese shop, Fromagerie Deruelle, or pick some up for later! Now it’s time for a pick-me-up at the best coffee in Bordeaux, Alchimiste. And the perfect treat to go with it, a dune blanche (a treat that comes from Cap Ferret, is just across the way—literally 15 feet. I’m not saying anything more about it, just trust me). After this, we walk to Badie the champagne store, and look at all the labels we’ve never seen before, and always pick up a couple to try. There are also so many in half bottles if you’re staying in a hotel and want to have one in your room for a fraction of the price at a restaurant—also, something you just won’t see on menus. Then a walk down the street to the prettiest and best chocolate shop in the world, Cadiot Badie, with the most beautiful flower shop right next door. We always bring home the bars as gifts, and eat the chocolate covered orange peels before we make it home. Last but certainly not least on this itinerary is the Chartrons quarter, which is a 15 minute walk. This is one of my favorite (I realize I’ve said “favorite” about 20 times already) neighborhoods of any city in the world—it just doesn’t get more charming. Meander into every little antique store on Rue Notre Dame, and, although you’re already stuffed, you need to get a treat at the best bakery in town, Le P’tite Boulangerie. Since we are always driving home after a long day in town, we don’t have cocktails—but our local friends tell us that the cocktail bar Apothek is really great.

There you have it—my perfect day—but here’s a list of all the other spots I love, plus hotels! There is a lot in between all the recs above, so if it isn’t in here, it doesn’t mean I don’t recommend it! There’s a lot that is opening all the time, and also, only so many hours in the day. And if there’s something you love and it’s not on this list, please share it in the comments! I almost forgot my most important tip: the best bathroom in all of Bordeaux where nobody will give you a hard time—the Intercontinental right on the main square—walk in like you’re staying there, stay to the right, head down the stairs…et voila! —Yolanda

(For more info on Bordeaux and the region, have a look at our France Travel Planner.)

EAT/DRINK

Au Bistrot is our absolute favorite! As soon as we know we’re heading to Bordeaux, we make a booking here. The food is from the market just down the road, and the wine list is so smart and reasonable. Great vibe!

Gaūta: Our friend Basile lives in town, has very discerning taste, and loves this Southwestern French spot!