A non-comprehensive and completely personal list of our favorite islands in the Cyclades. I’m pretty excited about this list—it’s the first time I’ve pulled everything out of emails, texts, DMs, Story Highlights, and the Greek issue of Yolo—and had all the intel in one place. Of course there are many islands I didn’t include, or only have one suggestion for. But that’s the point of this newsletter—I’m not going to pretend I know everything—I just want to share what I’m excited about, and connect you to the people I trust who have been other places I haven’t. As always, if you see something missing, say something! Would love to hear from you in the comments!
MILOS
I love this island and its relaxed, down-to-earth vibe. Because it is so rich in minerals, it hasn’t had to rely on tourism the way so many others have; locals aren’t jaded and there are more stores that cater to people who actually live there, rather than loads of expensive boutiques. It has so many beautiful beaches and doesn’t have one main town that everyone gravitates to, so even at the height of summer it doesn’t heave the way some of the over-touristed islands do.
STAY
Skinopi Lodge, a modernist-style property overlooking the sea, is our spot. It was pretty much love at first sight with its owner Nausika—smart, strong, opinionated, charming, great taste, captains her own boat! Everything is so intelligently and thoughtfully done—plus outdoor kitchen and shower, and the best sunset views.* Every day Nausika told what beach to go to—looking at the wind charts to see where would be the best for that day, and then she’d come up with the lunch suggestion based on that. *Since we were last there, Nausika has added an amazing private deck on the water, just below the villas!
“We love Captain Zeppos in the old fishing village of Pollonia. It’s run by Michalis, who knows everything about the island and is the most hospitable person. It is so special waking up to sea every morning, only metres away, to dive off the deck that Michalis built—the best kind of backyard. We love the breakfast made by his mum, which changes every day and includes delicious things like spanakopita, tiropita, watermelon pie/cake, yoghurt, fruit, olives, eggs, jam, honey and bread.” —Alexandra Heard and Heleena Trahanas
EAT/DRINK
Ergina in Tripiti is where we would eat every night if we could. They have “grandma” food—the best kind!
Medusa in Mandrakia might be one of the most photographed restaurants on the island, with its seafront location and octopus hanging on the line. While it often has a wait, there are the most charming syrmata (colorful cave boathouses) to wander around.
Taverna Embourious is simple and fresh with tables right on the water.
“O Hamos! It’s located in the sweetest garden in the port town of Adamas. Everything is grown in the garden, the food is wholesome and so delicious, and cooked with so much love.” —Alexandra Heard and Heleena Trahanas
To Kyma in Kimolos has the best imam (baked eggplant) ever, and is a feet in the sand spot.
Palaios bakery in Plaka is a nice place to get coffee and orange cake in the morning.
AND…
“Milos has some of the most stunning beaches in the world. Kleftiko, a former pirates hideout, is our top pick. The only way to get there is by boat—which you dive off into crystal-clear water and snorkel in the caves. The water glows a different shades of blue and feels like another world. Best spot to watch the sunset—Astakas in Klima. And our favorite buys:: Delicious traditional treats like homemade ladotyri (cheese drowned in olive oil) from Kivotos to Gefseon in Pollonia, and wine from Kostantakis Cave Winery. However the best souvenirs are free—you can spend hours sifting through the most incredible pebbles and stone as they washed up onto the shore at Fyriplaka Beach.” —Alexandra Heard and Heleena Trahanas
SERIFOS
A 2.5 hour ferry from Athens, this island has 72* beaches! I haven’t been, so I asked my friend Yana from Nomad Luxuries to share her list, and a couple of other friends who know it well. *Since I pressed publish, my Milos friend tells me it’s more like 15…google says 45.
STAY
Lia Beach House: Is rustic villa a category? This place, owned by set designer Manolis Pantelidakis, could start it.
EAT/DRINK
Stou Stratou for the best wild fennel pie
Kalis
Kyklopas Taverna for a post-swim bite
Cocomat Eco Residences for an epic dinner and sunset. Yana says to get the seafood orzo if they have it.
AND…
The Folklore Museum
KOUFONISIA
Technically two islands Pano (upper—where most people stay), and Kato (lower), the whole island is known for laid-back, chic vibe. It has always been beloved in the alt-traveler community—campers, naturalists, hippies—it didn’t even get electricity until 1984. The water is more like the Caribbean, and you can walk everywhere. Thank you to Patricia Garcia-Gomez and @yia.mas for sharing your favorites. I love what Patricia emailed me about the island: “Small, cozy, easy—the locals say that with each day in Koufonisia you will do less. It is true. The water is bluer and saltier—hard to imagine, but when you get there, it feels this way. You can do it by foot—only locals are allowed to bring cars on the island, and there is literally just one land-based taxi. I love the free feeling of shuffling around without precision by boat taxi. Try the salty goat: opposite Koufonisi, the island of Keros is noted for the flat-faced Cycladic marble statues that inspired the work of Picasso and Henry Moore. In modern times though, its only inhabitants are goats, who feed exclusively on the salty grasses and sea water of the island, which makes them super tasty.”
STAY
Eros Keros: “It is actually less of a hotel, and more of your own home in Greece, with all your needs luxuriously taken care of. It was born of a dream. Anita, the owner, travelled here when she was young and was captivated by it, knowing it was “her” island. She kept going for the next 20 years or so, then found herself in position to buy land. When she outgrew her career, she devoted herself to building Eros Keros, pouring her love of the island into every detail, down to the yellow skylight windows inspired by Greek cathedrals. But beyond that Anita knows everyone and makes magic happen.” —Patricia Garcia-Gomez
EAT/DRINK
Finikas for a classic taverna lunch
Captain Nikolas Psarotaverna
Astrolouloudo for warm rakomelo-tsipouro
Bar Sorokos for breakfast and great music scene at night. More Tulum+Morocco than trad Greece.
Mylos Koufonisia
Michalios Grill House for local meats and an old school vibe
MYKONOS
“The natural landscape is the reason that hedonism and freedom exist here. Dry with strong wind gusts and dust- no matter how hard you try to fix your hair, or keep your skirt/shirt in place, nature forces you to just “let go”! (Thank you Dino Giannako for this lovely quote.) I haven’t been in literally decades (I’m definitely more of a small, low-key island person,) but I know so many people want Mykonos intel, so I asked my friends who live/work/visit there to give me their scoop.
STAY
“Kalesma Hotel (new this year) is stunning! Any place that has Rick Owens furniture is a win in my book. Destino Pascha, the Spanish hotel group from Ibiza, and Nomad, a 14-room boutique hotel—the suites have their own private pools.”—Dino Giannako
“Scorpios and its San Giorgio hotel are now part of Soho House, the first SH property in Greece”. —Nausika Georgiadou
“In the rental world of Mykonos—this stunning house—although in the rental site it’s hidden, because the owner is very picky with the guests.” —Costas Voyatzis
“One of my favourite new hotels is The Wild Hotel by Interni, with a private beach.” —Dimitra Kolotoura
EAT/DRINK
On the restaurant aspect everybody is talking about Noema—modern Greek cuisine—with an amazing monastic ambience (concept and uniforms designed by Marios Schwab). All the other beautiful restaurants are pretty much the same—classic Nobu at Belvedere Hotel (my personal favourite) and Katrin’s. —Dimitra Kolotoura
AND…
“Nothing like Agios Sostis and Fokos for swimming. And for shopping—Parthenis for Mykonos pared down chic.” —Maria Lemos
Other beaches that are delicious are Kapari, Mersini and Tigani- they are secluded and private, escapes from the scene, places to recharge.” —Dino Giannako
“Zeus+Dione is opening its first island store! And Noema also has a beautiful concept store.” —Dimitra Kolotoura
PAROS
“One of my favorite islands in the Cyclades, it was once the Greeks’ little secret because of the low key, laid back holiday vibes. Beautiful Caribbean-like sandy beaches, traditional mountain villages (my favorite is Lefkes), and a magical harbor town called Naoussa (a perfect mixture of fishermen boats, chic stores, and lovely alleyways. It’s hard to keep a secret of such epic proportions like Paros, so I’m gladly sharing it with you. We took a 40 minute airplane ride from Athens, but you can also take a ferry. Plus you can easily island hop to Naxos, Mykonos, and Santorini.”—Naima Sanowar
STAY
Le Collectionist villa selection
SIFNOS
Referred to as the gastronomic island—it was the birthplace of Nikos Tselementes, who wrote essentially the Greek cooking bible back in 1910. It’s said to have 365 churches, one for each day of the year. And once the ceramic epicenter of Greece—look for flaros (clay chimneys) all over the island—which are uniquely Sifnian. Thanks to Yana from Nomad Luxuries, Nausika from Skinopi, and Elie Obeid, for all your great suggestions.
STAY
EAT/DRINK
Cheronisos for the fish soup, but also a great no-wind beach
Theodorou Sweet Shop for the amygdolata, a ground almond cookie in the shape of a Roman nose.
Rabagas Sifnos: order their baked sea bass and their take on the revithada, the island specialty—chickpea stew with smoked herring.
AND…
Mr Kosta for traditional cooking Sifnian ceramics
Wake up early and hike to the Church of the Seven Martyrs in time for sunrise, then ring the bells at 7am and wake up the village.
TINOS
“I have many highlights from Greece, but Tinos and it’s traditional settlement Kardiani, truly has cast its spell, with its narrow alleyways, marble fountains and the only taverna, Dimitra’s, with no menu (and everyone knows your business.) No gift shops, no bars, no nightclubs. On Sunday, I followed the sound of ringing bells to one of the churches, lit a candle and as the only tourist, the locals insisted I go and wake my sleeping children to join the community for coffee and raki in the school room next door. It was all so special.” —Giota Letsios
“We spent time there this summer, and like all Greek islands, totally magic. I really loved how the more than 50 tiny villages have such different personalities. In Volax, men still make hand-woven baskets from willow, wicker and reed harvested under a full moon. Pirgos is a beautiful village, built from marble (even the bus stop!), and there’s a marble museum, as well as the studio/home of Giannoulis Chalepas, the island’s most famous marble sculptor. Perhaps what I become most obsessed with: thousands of dovecotes are scattered across the island, intricately designed pigeon houses and an extraordinary example of vernacular folk architecture. In the little speck of a village of Tarambados, you can park outside the village and walk to an overgrown ancient path, which leads through the countryside, up rock steps and alongside a handful of the dovecotes. We loved the path so much, we went twice—and never encountered another soul.” —Meghan McEwan
STAY
“Villa Kardiani has been sensitively and beautifully restored by a family of architects. Christina, the owner, delivers a generous breakfast basket each morning and has the best information on discovering the island.” —Giota Letsios
“Villa Tripotamos is located in a quiet, cobblestoned, maze-like speck of a village of the same name. Recently renovated by a brother-sister architecture team, the property includes a spacious courtyard, where I ate breakfast and my kids played tag, and an outdoor kitchen/dining area shaded by citrus trees with hand-built stone ovens, a pool, and ridiculously picturesque view across the Aegean to Delos.” —Meghan McEwan
SANTORINI
An island that doesn’t require an intro. And while it’s beauty is breathtaking, I hope that, if you do visit it, you will also visit at least one other on this list, as Santorini has too many tourists, and it would be ideal for you to experience an island with less tourism impact. Because I’m not encouraging you to go here, my list is minimal. Any restaurant suggestions beyond this you should ask your hotel for a list of current favorites.
STAY
“My favorite place is Aenaon, a 6-villas boutique hotel. I usually stay in the suite with the Olive Tree.” —Costas Voyatzis
“Perivolas, which started as a small rental house 40 years ago and is now a favorite global destination, is the definition of Greek simplicity and hospitality. Their Hideaway, while quite expensive, is worth every last euro.” —Julia Klimi
EAT/DRINK
Armeni: take a boat here for a fantastic seaside lunch, with the kindest, most enthusiastic owner.
Taverna Katina in the Ammoudi port (down the hill from Oia), aka the place with the orange chairs. A solid classic.
ANDROS
Our friend Allegra Pomilio followed her dream and created a beautiful place, Melisses—a place to stay, and take workshops. She describes the island as immensely diverse and green, because it has natural springs scattered throughout, so it has a more green landscape year-round. The island is known for its hiking trails and gastronomic traditions. I’d suggest staying with Allegra, or least trying to meet her, and get her most current list of favorites on the island.
STAY
NAXOS
STAY
SYROS
STAY
Xenon Apollonos: A beautifully restored historical property, with only two guest rooms.
FOLEGANDROS
STAY
ANTIPAROS
“New this summer is The Rooster in Antiparos, a five star wabi sabi place that is a labour of love of Athanasia Komninou.” —Nausika Georgiadou
AMORGOS
“We stay at Pano Gitonia, a traditional spot with perfect sea views (the owners also have a legendary tavern down in the port of Aegiali, but for your readers we think Vorina Ktismata in Chora is the best choice.” —SteMa Journeys
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[…] Greek friends who know these islands, pored through our Greece Travel Planner, our Dodecanese and Cyclades Lists, and researched way past the first couple of Google pages. Our methodology was to price out double […]
[…] We answered many of the questions we received, but if you want more intel, see our Cyclades listhere (which we also lightly cribbed from below), and our more recent Costa Meno Greece which features an […]